Lockjaw

Denny, He is some info for you. Every time you have a wreck in AL, you have to send the state an SR13 form. On the back is a section that you can say the person owes you money, and you have not released them for the debt. If you fill that out, the state will suspend thier license for 2 years. Then if you take them to small claims court, and get a judgement against them, wait 45 days, and send the judgement to the state, they will tack on another 8 years to the suspension, for a total of 10 years. After you send the judgment down, the person will have to have mandatory SR22 insurance before they can even get their license back ,and they have to keep it for three years or they get their license suspended again. Yeah it is a pain, but that is what I did when this guy with no insurance rear ended me on the interstate. I got my money too when he tried to sell some property. He said it would be a cold day in hell before I got any money from him, and the check came two weeks later. I hope all those people down there appreciated a break from the heat.

The awesome creativity of some people just never ceases to amaze me. I imagine the builder of that car is rather proud of it too. Man, what a POS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I bet it pukes major oil smoke.

My suggestion for the stumps is about 10 gallons of kerosene and a match. Good luck with them. I once burned a huge pecan tree/stump that fell during one of the hurricanes. Took a week, but it was gone. Good luck. Wish I had a shop too.

Sorry to hear about your friend. In the PC world we live in now, there is no way for a COP to do his or her job properly. That is the sad reality of it. My suggestion if you live in a gang infested area (like who doesn't) is to pack heat and use it if you need to. Better them than you. I am sure someone will give me some heat for that, but until we all stand together and decide we are going to have a moral compass again, that PCness sucks, and that jail should really suck and actually be punishment, nothing is ever going to change.

I would strap a timing light on it and make sure the timing is right. Have you pulled a plug and looked at it to see what it looks like? Make sure your float levels are right, and then richen up like Lone suggested. I would also check the condition of the plug wires, cap and rotor. Make sure your plugs are not gapped to wide also.

If you are not turbocharged, then I am not sure of the benefit of the ceramic coating. I am sure it helps, but no to the extent it would help a turbo engine. I would go the jet hot route, get the lifetime warranty, and keep all my paperwork, and when and if that stuff flakes off, send it back and make them fix it right. Thats my .02

Sleeper I am kind of with you. I guess the biggest plus is it gives you a lot of room to grow, and it would be easier on the injector if you kept the duty cycle down. I just hope the thing will idle properly with that big of an injector. You would really want full sequential on that deal, batch fire would probably make the thing get bad gas mileage.

There are lots of shops out there that have manifolds already made, I think the problem you are going to have is finding one that matches the flange on the saab turbo. You would be way ahead of the game to get a turbo that has the proper flange to mount to one of the current manifolds out there. Thats my .02.

Well I found out some interesting injector info. There is a 53 lb/hr injector that Plymouth used in their turbo cars, and they are 47.55 each new from my local dealer. I don't know what they look like is the problem, however, I had a buddy who got some bigger injectors for his 280 turbo from top end, and it turned out they were Chrysler injectors that he could have picked up for around 35 bucks, so I bet these will work. That is about 30 bucks each cheaper than you can get them new if you bought from someone like JWT or RC. Oh I bet you would like the part number, sorry. It is P5249452. If it works, and you like it, let me know and send me an X-mas present.

OK, I have been thinking of ordering the stock and just making one, but I am just not motivated to get out and do that right now. I am trying to get this bozo to call me back about a 600 dollar 280z that needs rims and a clutch. looks pretty good from the road. I need to stick my turbo engine in it.

You might want to check with some DSM-er's, I think that is a pretty popular injector with them. DOn't know spec's though. I want bigger ones than that, like 720's. Don't want to be held back by fuel.

I might be, how much? I can get a really nice one in town for 150.00

Which taurus fan(s) are you guys using? I had one for a V-8 sho taurus, but I could not figure out how to mount the thing, so I sold it. I have a 16 inch imperial on my ZXT and it keeps it cool enough with the intercooler out there, but in town when it is hot, and the ac is cranking, it doesn't get the job done. I could probably use a radiator flush though.

What year is your car? You cannot run the turbo very well on an NA car. People have done it I am sure, but you really need to use the turbo EFI set-up and distributor for best results.

I had a friend with a 240 with a stock pump that would not keep up with his L28 motor. He was running the P79 head on a flattop engine with a cam and header, and I can't remember if it was webers or the Su's that would run out of fuel when he was on it, but it was one or the other. I agree you should check the basics and make sure you are getting good fuel flow and they filters are not clogged up. With your compression ratio, your engine should be very responsive. Also check the gap on the plugs. I know with my seadoo when I raised the compression on it, I had to tighten the gap on the plugs. If you are worried about the tach, disconnect one of the wires and take it down the road and see if you have the cutting out. If you still do, chances are it is not the tach. Just make one change at a time so you can isolate the problem, that way if it happens again, you know exactly what it is. Good luck.

a 280zx turbo engine swap.

There is no more fabbing for the JWT setup than there will be with the SDS. It is really a lot easier than it sounds, and it took me longer to get to the freakin wire under the dash for the fuel pump relay than it did to do the rest of the conversion. Don't get me wrong, the stand alone's are really nice, but you can make nice power with the JWT set-up too. Alot of Nissan's out there run the JWT stuff, so it works. James can hook you up on tuning a tecII since he is in FLA and runs one on his car. He has a twin turbo set-up on his inline, so it should be pretty wicked once he gets it all set up. He runs the auto conquest tranny too, which is a nice mod.

DAW you are much more likely to find a t4 on a deisel truck of some sort, or some of the gas V-8 turbo conversions. The downside is these things will have huge AR ratio's on the turbine side. I think you would be way ahead of the game just to buy a t4 outright, IMO. Most of the T4's I have seen on ebay have had really large AR ratio's too on the turbine side. OH I think the rx7 Turbo II has a to4. I bet you will still have to get housings for it too. I think they have large AR's on the turbine side as well.

I think Lone is right in regards to the Saab turbo being a T3. The hybrid you refer to is a T3 turbine section paired with a T04B or E compressor housing and a b or E compressor wheel. The benefit is you get the flow of a T4 with the spoolup charactoristics of a T3. The E compressor and wheels are generally better suited for higher boost applications than the B serious, but sometimes, I think depending more on the turbine housing used, there are fitment problems with an E housing on a Z. A spacer eliminates this problem though. Hybrids work better on smaller displacement engines, and most of the really fast Z guys here who are turbo charged run big hybrids or full T4's and T series turbo's. I have a hybrid right now that is going to get upgraded to a bigger compressor wheel, although going to a T4 would not scare me either. T4's are very versitile. Any way you go, the best advice I can give you is to get a turbo that offers you some growing room. Boost is addictive, and once you see how much power you can pick up by adding more boost, and more fuel to go with it, the chances are you will want to increase your boost level.

I have to say, I bet the 5% they are talking about is a comparison between their manifold or one like it and a tubular one. Keeping heat in the thing is easy, jet hot coat it. 5% more HP is ok with me, HP is like money, you can't have to much. Besides once you get a Z up into the range most of us turbo guys are in, you are not going to have much of a chance of picking up large amounts of HP anymore. Don't get me wrong though, you bring up some good points. I just think we would never get the stock exhaust manifold to flow as well as that header one. Maybe the one Bell Engineering sells would be close, but it is 700 bucks. It costs 550 just to get ours extrudehoned.

I agree that equal length would be nice, but the stock manifold is not equal length, and the real benefit to the header is going to be the improved flow. Besides with a turbo, you can make up for the losses of not equal length with mo' boost. Who ever posted about the 60-1, you can do that one on a hybrid too. That is what I am going to next. Let me know how it is going.

You will like the V trim. It is really a good match for the Z engines. Makes good power, and you should like the bump over the stock set-up.

I like my ZX, and mine weighs 3120+ with me in it, so you know I am kind of a beefy fellow. I have not disconnected all the stuff on mine, quite frankly, because I am lazy, but also since I drove it everyday for a long time. Mine is well worn, and since I live in Alabama, I don't have to worry about smog stuff. I think when I was looking at specs the other day, the ZX and the 280Z are about the same length, there is about 100 pounds or so difference in weight. There are so many pro's and con's. I like the way the diff mounts in the ZX. I think the Z is easier to work on, and the diff is easier to remove. I don't think you could go wrong with either car to be honest. My personal opinion is to get a non t-top car since the replacement rubber is so expensive. Nobody has it cheap that I have found.

That was very well put Scottie. He is right BTW. I like my HKS one, but will be upgrading it soon to a big intercooler.

I could work the 35 amp rpm drop on my efi motor by rigging something to trigger the ac deal that raises the rpms when the compressor kicks on. Has anybody tried the redline water wetter or some of those other products that are supposed to reduce coolant temps by 40 degree's? I just wonder what that would do. I am not going back to a clutch fan, I don't care how much it costs me to get a radiator that will keep my car cool. I hate the helicopter sound they make when they engage when the engine is warm and it lugs my vehicle way down in comparison to what the alternator does when the electric is running. On my 2000 Silverado, when the clutch fan is engaged, it is a very noticable drain on the engine. Electrics would get rid of that. This kind of stuff is more noticable on the L6's than the V-8's. If you have ever had a fan clutch lock up on an L6, man that is no fun. You talk about drag. Yes it moves some air, but, noisy. Mine does really well with my cheapo electric. As good or better than with the clutch and shroud that came on it. Pete what kind of mustang did your fan come off, and how hard it is to mount to one of the stock radiators?