Lockjaw

If it is a stock cam, tell me the letter on the back and I will tell you the spec's tomorrow.

Not much to add here. A cam would be good, as would exhasut work. 3.90'S will make a big difference. Good luck.

I need more details. Where/when is the car running to rich? Idle, driving down the road, full throttle? You can raise your boost by bending the wastegate braket towards the front of the car slightly if it is a stock one. Keep the angle of the actuator rod the same.

The isuzu intercooler sucks. Get a good one from the aftermarket. It is worth the money. Hey what is the deal with the seal on the impulse? I need new door seals for my 260z. Will isuzu one's work?

I am in agreement with DAW on this one as well, which is why I asked about the engine. Right now, the P79 is doing fine, but the turbo head will likely flow more on the exhaust ports since it had a nice hot turbine housing to reduce its emissions. Work the P90 and stick it on there. The cams are different too. You might be surprised at the change.

Ok how rich is it? Usually on those cars, if the head temp sensor is disconnected, the car will run, but just barely. It is on the passenger side of the head back by the battery. MAke sure it is connected, or better yet, disconnect it, spray the plug and sensor down with brake clean and reconnect. I would thoroughly clean all the connections, paying particular attention to the ecu with brake clean. I would also clean out the AFM with brake clean as well. Then if the problem still persists, check fuel pressure and see where it is. If you have the tapered intake manifold, you know, the one that gets narrower as it goes towards the back, I would replace it with a stock turbo one, or one of the early model intakes. I did not like the tapered manifold on mine, and picked up boost when I switched to a turbo intake and 60 mm throttle body. If you are noticing this problem when you first crank the car, it is likely due to your missing air regulator. DO you have a richness problem when the car is fully warm?

Look on your head between the one and two sparkplug and see what it says. If it says P90A, you have a hydraulic lifter head, and you need to replace the lifter. They are pricy though. If it says P90, then you have a solid lifter head, but I don't think you do from your description. If it is, simple valve adjustment is needed.

You can try Victoria British which can be found under Long Motors on the internet. Tweeks also has Z stuff. There is also a ZX only place out there that I saw while searching the internet today, I think in Texas but not sure. Good luck, that stuff is getting harder and harder to find. I almost forgot, Jim Cook Racing.

The buick 455 is the best of the 455's. Don't know about 350's. Is there any aftermarket support for it? That is what I would use as a guide.

Just make sure you keep a watch on your oil level for the while and see what is happening. Hope you are right and the engine is really ok, that would be great.

Mandrel bent is the only way to go.

I like the sound of an open header about as much as I like the permanent hearing loss that comes with it.

I hope they aren't putting that stuff on the inside of your intake. I have to be a skeptic here, but I have never ever noticed at any time with any engine any performance gain with a heat shield. Yes they may look pretty, but does anybody have any evidence that a heat shield makes more power? I would like to see it.

I agree that the rising rate FPR are a bad idea. You can add an addtional injecor controler and put an injector or two in the intake tract before the throttle body. It is not as precise as bigger injectors and a chipped ecu, but it is a start, and much better than the FPR. Get an EGT and see where you are before you start spending money, or check the voltage on your O2 sensor.

Are we talking about a turbo Datsun engine?

More details please. I don't know what size engine, stock EFI, etc. I would make sure the head temp sensor is not disconnected. There is also a little round plug in on the AFM on the top side where the plastic covers the electronics. If you drill a small hole in that, pull the plug out, it gives you access to a small screw that you can use to let air bypass the door in the AFM. If you are just a little rich, this may help. I would also check my fuel pressure and make sure the regulator hasn't gone bad. Make sure the O2 sensor is working also. Maybe with some more info on your set-up, I would have different suggestions. I would not mess with the AFM until I had made sure I had good clean connections on all the electrical parts in the efi harness. Brake clean does a fine job of cleaning those. Good luck.

I have a turbo engine, and it is stock with the addition of forged pistons and ARP rod bolts. No porting and with a hybrid turbo, intercooler and JWT ecu set-up, I run mid to high 12's at around 113 mph in a fully loaded ZX. I used drag ta's, spun them, and I mix in some 110 leaded and turned the boost up to 21 or so PSI. As long as you stay out of the boost, it gets about 18 to 20 mpg. I am going to be putting together an NA set-up in my 260 with two SU's and see what I can get out of it. I have found thru experience that the turbo route is easier to go if you want to go fast and not break stuff. NA and fast means you need to spend time and money tweeking it, and you have to rev the engine higher to get the power. Steaper gears help too, but with a turbo engine, you don't need as much gear. IN the end it all boils down to money. It is expensive no matter what way you go. Spend the money and do it right the first time, or you will end up doing it over, and over and over. Good luck.

I just love the ricers. They seem to think that a header and an intake and exhaust and big wheels make a car fast. My friend raced two honda's this weekend in his Z with a cam, and all the little kids were betting whether or not he had a V8. Just stock engine with fuel injection and a cam. Like a Vtec honda could hang with a V8 Datsun with a nice lumpy cam. Give me a break. Wait til the 260 gets rolling. I have "the cam" for it, and it is going to have a 2400cc valve cover and two su's, and it should run mid 8's in the 1/8th. What they don't know won't hurt them, and they will think I have a V-8, until I pop the hood.

I could not get over about 18 psi without detonation either, but I have flat top pistons in mine. I bet it is fun right now, but you will get used to it and want more. Throw a little racing gas in there and see what happens. Sounds good.

I think a little more info would be nice. If your car is stock NA car, just leave the P79 on, or mill it some. The P90 will likely flow better, but on a stock engine, the difference is probably not worth the effort.

Do you have ac? I don't think it will push enough air myself, but if you had two, that would likely work.

I heard just the opposite, that the old style drag ta's were better. I have 235/60R15 regualar drag ta's and they hook me up good on the street. I haven't found the sweet spot for launching yet, but when there is VHT down at the track, they stick like stink. The Nitto's are better in the wet. Drag ta's and rain don't mix. Let me know how they work out.

Top End told me not to use the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, but to use castrol only when I asked them how to make my ZX stop. It stops better since I flushed the valvoline and added the castrol. Just my 02.

You don't have to rub it in. Damn all these people in other countries get the good cars while we sit over here and drool incessantly waiting for them to "allow" us to have one. This sucks.

Don't get to happy with the boost. I don't want to hear any bad news when I come back to work monday. I would like to know how well you think the header wrap works since I never have run a heat shield between my turbo and intake manifold. Makes me wonder what I could have run. I hope you get some improved performance. You should see some pretty healthy gains.