Lockjaw

HOw about MSA's 2.5 in exhaust. Anybody try it?

Corky Bell's book recommends an up and down core with lots of passages. Side to side may work a little better, but generally pressure drop is higher. I would rather have a less pressure drop at the sacrifice of a little efficiency since the pressure drop affects the turbo. Thats my .02.

Hey, have you ever heard of a "sit and spin"? Thats what a V-8 Datsun is. Scotty, just throw down and get a big intercooler and be done with it. Check here http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm Cheap, and surely you can find one that will work for you. I would hate for you to be winning and blow off the end tank and lose, especially after all that BACKPEDALING!!!!

I have a peirberg from Cartech in my Z and it is encased in rubber and will fit in the stock Z bracket. Best of all, it is as quiet as a chruch mouse, and I have had it for 4 years on my turbocharged ZX engine. It flows 200 LPH which should be more than sufficient for your use, I would guess. It was 200 bucks, but quiet is worth the price.

The Tec II rocks. There are some people using them on the board. James down in FLA. You could contact Topend performance in CA, they have the with harness and stuff for about 1900. Then you have to get the timing wheel mounted on the harmonic balancer. Any good machine shop shoud be able to do that, or you can send your balancer and I think timing cover to topend and they will do it for you. They give you a break on it if you buy the tec system from them. They also have base programs for just about any combination, so they should be able to give you tech support and get you up and running. If you don't have a good understanding about the technical aspects of fuel injection and how engines and turbos' work, you may want to look at other options like using a JWT upgrade.

What kind of waste gate actuator are you using? If you are using the stock nissan one, it is not up to handling the job. I have a dual port I bought from Topend and they fabbed me a bracket after I clocked the turbo and sent to them. I use a manual boost controller on the bottom port to add a little boost to keep the wastegate shut. It works well. I have not had any boost creep issue's, since using this actuator. You may be flowing to much air for the turbo to bypass thru the internal gate, which means you would need to go to an external wastegate, and the little turbonetics delta gate is no big enough, IMO. You could raise the boost some and see if that helps. What are the specs on your hybrid? Do you know what wheels are in it? That would help.

HEad bolts go to 60 ft-lbs., and I was thinking 20 on the cam towers, but will defer to Daw's rec. As someone who struggled to remove a turbo this weekend, even after using anti-seize (not the copper kind though) I would suggest a thorough soaking with liquid wrench or some sort of penetrating oil, followed by some tapping on the stuck bolt with a hammer or something. Don't vent your frustrations, just tap it to help get the stuff down in there. As it comes out, keep skeeting the stuff in there, and tighen and loosen the bolt to get the stuff deeper in the block. Eventually, you will get the thing loose.

Volvo intercoolers suck man. Sorry you are having problems with it. I am going to have to upgrade my HKS one soon. It is good sized, but I want one bigger.

It is the same turbo, except the down pipe section is different that a 280 one. You will need the waste gate actuator from a 280 and you will have to reclock the turbo. You can also plumb the water for it, which I would recommend, although most shops will tell you that you can leave it unplumbed if you like.

http://media.racingflix.com/videos/dyno/ct_t76pull4.mpg Check out this link and you might be. Z06's rock anyway. You better have some whoopass under your hood if you tangle with one of those.

Sounds like some back pedaling to me.

Headers, exhaust system, port heads, hi flow intake, etc. Must have computer mods to go with injectors.

Does anyone know of someone making the spacer required to mount the Toyo 4 runner caliper on a 260 Z using the 300ZX rotor? I want to do the swap, but need the spacer. Thanks

If you build the engine right and have it balanced, you should be able to turn it to 7 to 7.5k rpms. Getting over that gets you into a crank resonance problem. Make sure you use ARP rod bolts, and spend your money on good machine work and bottom end prep. I usually broke piston rings with my NA engines that I turned up there.

How about all you guys with V-8's making your cars weigh the same per cubic inch as us 6 cylinder guys?

I think you should forget the Buick engine and put a pinto motor in it.

Dynamic vibration absorber? I think aliens put it there as dead weight to slow your car down.

Well I picked up a over a tenth of a second switching from 3.56 gears to 3.90's, and on a hot afternoon to boot! Bushur runs a powerglide, I would guess, because it is small, bulletproof, and with a big stall puts him into boost when he launches. What is his final drive? I mean if he ran 3.56 gears in his final drive and ran the powerglide into the 7's, then that would be something. I bet he turns his motor way up there too. I am not sure we are talking about an apples to apples comparison here. I think I would have run a better time than I ran (with 3.90's) except I kept banging the rev limiter in the first three gears. I was crossing the 1/4 mile line at about 6300 rpms, versus 5500 or so with the 3.56's. But it could be my combination likes the gear, and when I change it, it won't. FYI the T-56 has different gearing than the Borg Warner, and I think 3.90's in it would be comparable to 3.56's with the BW in the first couple of gears. I think like this. A turbo engine is basically very high compression engine. High compression engines like gearing. I have heard all the arguements before, but I have never found a case where my personal turbo vehicle runs slower with more gear. I am sure there is a point where it will, but in the realm of what is available to me for diff's, I have sped up. I also have a friend who has a turbo 280, and he had the borg warner with 3.90's in the back and switched to the Jap trans. His reasoning? He had to shift into 5th gear with the BW, but the Jap trans let him finish the 1/4 mile in 4th. I contend he slowed his car down. The main difference is the first 3 gears in the BW are shorter than the Jap trans.

I think the LSA and the intake lobe centerline are the same. I think. You should be able to get overlap, but I am not real sure on that. Have you checked some of the cam makers websites to see if they have any tips on figuring that out? I know you can do it with a dial indicator, but have no idea how. Frankly, I shoot from the hip on cams. I don't like wide lobe centers, and like more lift and less duration.

I think its value lies in that you can put your set-up in there and then compare it to what you can do in the real world. Then you can make changes and see what the computer thinks will happen rather than waste money. I have a friend who uses it religiously, and his car never came close to what the program said it would, and in the end, I think it all boils down to bench racing. For me, show me a dyno pull or a time slip if you want to impress me. I don't care what a computer says your car can do, what it does is what I care about. That is my blunt .02.

Man one off custom stuff takes time. You must learn patience or you will forever be doomed to turmoil. I know how it is about cars and not being in the right one. I never run across people to play with in my ZX, but in my truck, they are everywhere. I was thinking of a custom tag like ITSASIX, or 1QUICK6. Anything to let the fools know they got spanked by a 6. If they hear an L6 around here with a cam in it, they automatically assume it is a 350. Honda boys get happy when they can sort of hang in there with a V-8 Datsun. IF they only knew.

Are you guys all part of the vast right wing conspiracy to get rid of Bill Clinton? HAHA Seriously, the Klez infects a computer and then uses a name in the users mailbox as the sender, and sends out emails. Pete was just in someone's computer with the virus. It can also randomly generate a name, depending on what virus it is. Do not open an email that offers Klez protection either. I got them everyday for a while, and got two last week, one here, and one at home. No matter what the subject, do not open an email from someone you don't know. Norton will catch it when you get your mail. I could not get MacAfee to work right, so I quit using them.

If it is a stock set-up, he should not have to adjust the AFM much to get it right. I would suspect a bad connection or a fuel pressure issue first. That is where I alsways had problems with the stock set-up.

Yes please do. I need some seals for my newest acquisition, and the way it looks, the Nissan and aftermarket ones are a little to high.

It would help when you do stuff like put 3.90's or 4.11's in your turbo car. I have 3.90's now with the borg warner, and overdrive sucks compared to the 3.56's.