junglist

I bought a "Godspeed" intercooler from ebay for $89.99 with free shipping. The core is sized 24"x12"x3". It is a seeminly nice quality unit, no cracks in the end tanks, no bent fins and the welds are pretty decent (dunno about penetration). Its not light by any means but it was light on the wallet. I have no idea about pressure drop but like others have said in other ebay intercooler threads, it can't be that much more than a "name-brand" one. I'll probably upgrade to a real intercooler in the future when the budget allows, probably air-to-water. For piping I was just going to get some aluminum u-bends and make my own with some alumiweld brazing rods and silicone couplers and t-clamps everywhere I use the alumiweld. I definitely won't be cheaping out on the t-clamps. ebay auction similar to the intercooler I bought, except with $30 shipping

Performance Nissan has the Nismo studs for cheaper and you probably could pick them up in person to save on shipping. http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2574&rsku=12740

I just noticed this post and have two points to make: 1. This "SUV" stuff is crazy talk unless it is regarding a tow vehicle. 2. You can never have enough man toys, let alone enough Z's.

370Z will be faster than all the cars on your list except the Supra or possibly the M5.

I have a complete 280ZX Turbo intake manifold with the throttle body & ALL the associated stuff still attached. I also have 280ZX Turbo injectors/fuel rail. Interested?

I wish I could find the mystical salvage yard in my area that sells stuff like this or even gets late model cars at all.

Don't do it! That guy is shady.

Yes and yes, assuming that you are talking about the flanges that are the entrance and exit of the wastegate. A copper gasket would work best IMO.

You can always just get the Nissan ones: http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=45 I'm down the street from Datsun Spirit if anyone ever needs me to pick something up they've bought from Datsun Spirit and ship it to them, I'd be more than happy to help out and do so.

Are you talking about a flange similar to this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-T3-T4-5-bolt-w-wastegate-hole-2-5-ID-flange_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ002QQitemZ120360579030 I bought an identical flange to use for my downpipe when I finally get to that stage. The flange is of good quality and is a good solution if you don't want to weld on your exhaust manifold.

You are right, not from diyautotune as I was told. The inside bottom of the case has the guy's website address on it. I went to his site and he said he purchased the components from "Glen's Garage" and assembled it himself. So there is where the solder joint issues and whatnot come from.

Here is a little bit clearer but much bigger picture. The best I can do with my camera that I have here at work.

I think you are correct...it does look like it took an impact and cracked. I can't see any burn marks around it or anywhere else on the board. I just asked who I bought it from and he said it was bought from diyautotune.com and was running fine when they removed it. It sat on a shelf for 3 months before he sold it to me so whatever broke that piece must've done it then. Not a big deal if it's something easily replacable. I assume it would be worth my time/money to buy or build my own stimulator unit to test this once I replace the U4? I'm sure shipping roundtrip just to have someone look at it and test would be close to $30 and thats 2/3 the price of a stimulator kit.

Ok, I see that now...duh on my part. It even says MSII on the daughter card but in such tiny lettering that I wasn't paying attention to it. I see that the U4 part is only $2.06 from digikey so that is good. Ryan, the guy I am doing my build with is pretty proficient with circuit boards and soldering and such. Thank you very much with the help.

How can you tell? Here's another picture.

I bought this used MS-I V3.0 board from a member here for a very fair price. Upon opening the unit I noticed that one of the "chips" or what have you is broken/chipped on the circuit board. In the attached picture I've circled the broken piece in red. If it helps at all I can read "CKTF" "0445" on the piece in question. I wanted to ask the MS guys on here if they know what that particular chip/piece does and if its damage will be or is an issue? Is it something that I can remove and replace easily for a reasonable cost? Can I get that piece seperately if I need to? I'm going to join and post on msefi.com also to hopefully get input from there as well. I do not have a stimulator yet to test the box to see if it fully functions but I was told that when it was removed from the car it was in that all was fine and the guy was upgrading to SDS.

XTD clutches have a horrible, horrible and I can't stress this enough, horrible reputation. Do a little search for reviews and comparisons on google (not here on hybrid) and read a little bit about them. Basically they are crappiest of crappy materials and they just spray paint chinese OEM pressure plates red and then put a sticker over the stamp of whatever company actually makes them. They may be cheap but they are junk. You don't always get what you pay for, but in this case I think you may be actually getting less than what you are paying for.

Definitely the rear sill piece that is just above the taillights/license plate area is a piece that needs to be available.

lol....completely miss the joke, haha!

I haven't personally used it, but at www.classiczcars.com there is a guy named "Zs-ondabrain" that manufactures those adapters for MSA. His e-mail is wolfin32z@yahoo.com and I'm sure he'd be able to answer any questions you had about the adaptor.

You don't need to buy a "game". The cabinet includes the game...if you look at the pictures in the auction the game board (PCB) is shown in the cabinet in the 5th picture (the green circuit board) and in the 6th picture he shows a picture of an extra game board. I have a Street Fighter 2 arcade cabinet at my house and I love it. The electronics inside are very simple to work on, replace, and even upgrade if you want to. I'd love this cabinet just to play driving games on and upgrade the inside to a home computer to run MAME so I could play any driving game with the cabinet.

Why not just get this 81-83 alternator adaptor that works for the 70-73? Its a pretty reasonable price for no fuss or mess: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/12-4067

How are you still able to source the Power Brute LSD units? I thought they were out of production? Am I mistaken?

I have a used L28ET cam gear and a 3 row pulley if you are interested.

Are those pictures from the 1970's? LOL