josh817

So I found a write up on classicz about how to get your non Jeco clock ticking. Unfortunately, I have a Jeco, so I decided to do everyone a favor and make a write up on how to at least take apart the clock and oil it, check to make sure everything is good, and hopefully it will tick. Tools needed: -Needle nose pliers -5.5mm wrench or socket -small Philips head screwdriver So here we have the Jeco clock. Mine was ticking, however it would stop randomly until you tapped on it and it would start, then stop again. I figured it just needed some cleaning and lube. Everything likes lube right? Alright so to get it open you must undo the two screws on the side which hold the case and the back plate onto the housing. The 3 nuts on the casing itself hold the clock guts inside. You will need the 5.5mm socket/wrench for this. Ok so when you get it open it looks like this. A bunch of gears, how surprising and fantastically exciting! No, not really. Alright so, 12v is the blue wire which goes into the motor, then when it comes out it goes to a 700ohm resistor which then leads to ground. Ground is connected to the post, which makes contact with the case when the guts are bolted in. The black wire leads to this post, so really you have 2 grounds, the case and the wire. Unlike British cars, we have good grounds with backups just in case one goes bad. Anyway, what we will do is take the motor out of the gear mesh because we want to see if the motor is even spinning. If it isn't, well you screwed pal I don't know what to tell you. If it is, like mine spun up really fast, then you need to clean and oil all the other gears. Take the motor out by unscrewing that screw: On the other side of the motor, the post is holding it down. Don't pry the motor up. I mean look at it. The plastic is all yellow, knowing your luck it will probably break and then you're screwed pal. I'm pointing at the post with the screw driver, notice it has two flat sides on it: Now I don't know what size wrench you need to unsrew the post, so I just used some needle nose pliers to gently break it loose. Grip onto its flats, don't be stupid. Here it is when its out: Alright so now we can lift the motor up. It will stay there because you are really just bending the wires/connections. With that said, don't be an idiot and move it every which way a lot, it will probably break loose knowing your luck. Then you're screwed pal. Not really, but it sounds good doesn't it? Ok so now connect your 12v and your ground. If it spins up, great, if not, you're screwed pal. So, for all those who had theirs spin, get your lube ready, we're goin' in. What lube? Don't ask me, I'm sure everyone has their own opinion. It needs to be thin, not thick, and don't apply too much. All of those things will cause the gears to stick and they will stick easily. Here I am lubing up the clock. Ok so if you did what I did, you set the clock on its face. Sure, you were being gentle with it and not applying too much pressure but knowing you're luck, you probably screwed it up. What I mean is, the hour and minute hands bend easily and with mine they kept colliding with each other and jammed up. Before you put the damn thing back together though, go ahead and put the motor back in and connect 12v to see if it ticks. If it does HURRAH! So now you're probably asking me, well how did yours turn out Josh? Well if you proceeded to be a smart ass and you put the whole thing back together without testing it only to found out that it still had the same symptoms. Go ahead and take it back apart, try to trouble shoot for a couple hours. If its just not your lucky day, which it isn't, put it back together and do me a favor: DESTROY IT! in a happy way** So if you made it down this far, enjoy the rest of your night. I think I'm going to go get fat off some pastries and play a game. Maybe watch some Dirty Jobs. I will not be trying to resuscitate my poor clock anymore. You try your hardest and put time into it, but the Jeco Clock is an ingrate. I do not tolerate this.

I don't even know what to say to this so I'll just leave this here:

The gods have their powers. The only time these mysterious buttons wreak havoc is when they tell us to delete our for sale topics after the item has sold, except..... we don't have that button. atleast I don't. Pshhhhhhh

If you look closely you'll see a blue Z out in the grass on whatever corner I was working that day.

Here you guys go, some good hi-res pictures! http://netviper.smugmug.com/Cars/CVAR-TWS-09/9689775_ERfWA#654608884_qpsDv http://picasaweb.google.com/brian.hare

This is a good point.

Dr. Pepper FTW? Who knows.

I swear I didn't search anything! It was on the front page of liveleak! My "title" on this site as "questionable" doesn't help... does it.

Your Z/wife/girlfriend/yourself will enjoy the pay hopefully. In that order too.

Does hoov work in the medical field?

Am I the only one who doesn't find it gross? There isn't tons of blood, no nasty green looking stuff, no liquid spraying everywhere. Just... some rocks... a lot of rocks... >_>

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=524_1255129083 Oh god guys. One HUGE stone and the rest is like some kid went to the beach and collected pebbles. Passing those is definitely not an option dude.

Hope the myth of girls don't fart is true.

Please note that the first quote is referring to a camshaft regrind and the second one is referring to valve springs, neither are referring to the bottom end capabilities, and both quotes are referring to a competition preparation manual where its probably assumed that there are other things needed to be done in order to achieve a more reliable high RPM. He also says things like using a "special Vandervell bearing" which has "special oil grooves" and a "thicker shell" for racing purposes, those purposes being higher RPM's and the necessary lubrication so you can finish the race. Greg Ira's shift point is 8500 RPM for his race motor. Does this mean I can take my street motor and shift at 8500 RPM too for 100,000 miles or do I want to rebuild a motor/change bearings after 50 hours of use? We have to remember my usage of the word reliable varies on from track to street. Track reliable is finishing the race(s), measured in hours. Street reliable is, for a Datsun, more than 150,000 miles. We all know our toys don't break in until 75,000 miles!

Sounds awfully like my 86 year old grandpa. Hahahaha He tells us he never had to ask girls out, they would ask him out because of his "baby blue eyes". Than again... we did get him some Julius Caesar books and all of a sudden he was talking in first person about how he defeated the Gauls. When I laughed he told me "shut the hell up you damn fool before you get us kicked out" since it was at my sisters wedding. >_> Just saying though! DHP take those SHACKLES off and give that Z some loving financial support! NOW!

Now is that a 2000 or what? I'm doing a motor for a dude and parts are horribly expensive, I feel bad for the dude. Since we gave him a set price instead of hourly labor, I thought I might as well do the most I can while we wait for parts to come in. Don't rev the poor thing up too high. I was informed that like 6000-6500RPM is the highest you should go before your bearings decide to take a dump. Everything on the bottom end is hideously heavy. Untouched rods were 912 grams. I finagled them down to 840g and I bet I could have gotten more if I touched the bottom of the big end however this motor is warrantied so I don't want to get too crazy... I did take off lots of material around where the bolt goes through the rod, as you can see. Comparison would be like... our stock 240 rods were 700 grams I think. I can't remember what I had mine to but those weren't really lightened. Bearing that took a ****: So, nice car! Baby it. You don't want to rebuild a U20. The pushrod 1600 was cheaper last time I checked. EDIT: Not all the pictures loaded the first time. D: I love the wheels and I see its a 1600! Valve cover is different too.

That sounds like a cool idea however with MJ they give you a 10x10 graph. By twisting a knob, how does it know what RPM and Load "box" to adjust? I don't want a gauge because I want a graph of the wideband with the RPM, TPS, and Advance. They give you like RPM acceleration and all that stuff too but I took that off the graph so its less cluttered. I've talked to... myself... about the idea for a while because once the AFR is set, you shouldn't have any problems unless you go somewhere with a different altitude or something. I'd figure out my cold weather tune and my hot weather tune and then be done with it. Therefore the question is, why would I keep a sensor in there and let its life span tick away when I'm not using it. I won't be using a gauge for it because I'm keeping to all stock gauge for now. I'm not a big gauge dude so I don't like a ton of them all over the place. If I switched to autometer I'd get the speedo, tach, fuel, oil pressure, and water temp.

No I'm going to use it to tune the triple webers since they're a pain to tune.

Yah I think I had that mixed up. You're right about the output thing. The Aux input is by default a 0-1v signal however you can make it a 0-5v signal input by cutting the trace to "R6". So I guess that means for me that I won't be able to run a knock sensor and wideband. D: Unless I can tune the ignition and then do AFR. Who knows.

I PM'd this to you: I asked around but no one knows seems to know the voltage for the sensor. One way I guess you could do it is to get a hammer and tap the sensor, try to get a reading for it. Once you find the voltage, its easy to hook up. One wire which is the + or signal, sensor grounds to the block. Then all thats left is to either auto calibrate, or figure out what voltage the knock sensors sends out when there is some pinging. From their site: User out = 0-1v input. AUX input is a 0-5v http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide If you auto calibrate I'm guessing it will want to find your max and min voltage which means you shouldn't ping and then you should ping a ton or something. I didn't bother reading the 0-1v input part so the link is there for you guess. Theres also an operational guide.

No... someone asked about MJ and a knock sensor so you can have maximum advance without detonating, while not having to use EFI. Its on the first page. ;]

Like I said, I feel used and violated for falling into this trap thread. How dare you. We're all suckers for this ****. Psh

Lawl I get to watch you guys complain for a couple of years until my life is stolen by female. On the flip side, let me make sure I have all my nuts. 1... 2..... 3... k we're all good guys. Not to mention, don't you hate it when you tear something down, do what you need to do, then put it back together and you realize after you're done that you still have hardware. The notorious "extra" hardware. I put it all in a bucket and keep the bucket in the car so if **** flies, I know where to find the forgotten pieces. Haha

Oh just wait until you accidentally lay a socket on that little groove between the valence and the hood. Rolls away under the kick panels, you try to chase it but its too late, it goes in under the fender. You know if you keep it there, you'll hear it rattle away, driving you insane... coincidentally while you are literally driving. I feel used and violated for falling into this trap thread. How dare you.

The answer is yes I'm pretty sure. Megajolt has one 0-5v input and like 3 or 4 0-1v inputs. I'm persueing mine currently, going to use the 0-5v for a wideband, 0-1v for water temp maybe, and then if a knock sensor is 0-1v I'll definitely do that. Megajolt has a setup that allows for "timing correction" so you can say at like 150º water you want +5º of advance, which is then added onto whatever "block" you're in on the MAP or TPS chart you have. And then you can say when water hits 250º retard the timing by 5º or whatever and 5º is taken away from whatever block you're on. The example on their website: And ironically, the creators of Megajolt are using a 240z to install the system. I guess the big question is whats the knock sensor voltage and how would you calibrate it but thats neither here nor there in this topic.