ColtGT4g63

There is no knock control with the MS unfortunately, but I do have data logs. I was running 10 psi of boost, and roughly 8 - 9* of timing at that boost level. With a splash of 100 octane for insurance. I'm debating on weather or not I want to build the LS1, or go find a 5.3 stocker to throw in... Decisions decisions.

With your past experience, what do you think I could have done differently to prevent this?

I get what you're sayin. Things were just WAY too conservative for me to believe that there was detonation going on. 50% race gas, low timing, boost, and a rich AFR. Whatever the culprit was... Hopefully it does not happen with a set of stronger internals.

Hardly, The piston tops look perfect. As well as the combustion chambers in the head, and cylinder walls. ♥♥♥♥ broke from either it being a weak cast pistons, and/or too much power through that baby!

Gosh darn it!

I have cut a 1.4 the last time I was at the track, with the turbo. This most recent time to the track my best was a 1.6. The track was VERY slippery this time around though and no body got good times. I've been running the same slicks since I have got the car running in the beginning. In the videos the exhaust is going through 2, 9" resonators and dumping right before the axles. When I have the full exhaust on, I have two magnaflows in the back as well. 5x8" ovals. Roughly 1 foot long, straight through 3"

I'm running M/T ET drags. 26 x 8.5 x 15. 60's were 1.6Xsec. I have cut numerous 1.5's down there, and even a 1.4! At a different track I have lifted the front tire off the ground a little bit too.

The car already has an LS6 cam. It does quite well I must say! The MegaSquirt does not have an knock monitering, but the timing is extremely conservative! We'll see whats up when I take it all apart.

7.3@ 98, Sucks not being able to put all the power to the ground! ALSO... I dropped a cylinder, and it cranks over like I'm doing a compression test now. And was racing on 7 cylinders the entire time. Tomorrow I start pulling the motor, and start looking for an iron block Gen3. Over all I had fun!

Man... having ZERO traction on slicks all the way through 3rd gear really sucks!!! Let me tell you... Video's soon to come! Have work tomorrow morning.

Possibly, my IAT's seem to be pretty normal for what they are so I'm not too worried about it. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Looking back at my logs from the last time I was at the track. my intake temp while I'm waiting in line is up to 111*, once I take off it goes up to 113* then by the end of the track its hovering around 118* If there was a way to keep the intercooler cold before I started racing, then maybe it would only go up just a little bit above ambient. Seems like the intercooler is just heat soaking while I'm in line waiting to race. while cruising around on a cold night, I've seen the intake temps as low as 55*.

I'll be able to tell you after looking at some logs tomorrow night at the track. I'm going to guess somewhere roughly 15 - 20* warmer then ambient temp.

How'd you know?!??!

Of course! Along with an In car video of the runs. Hehehe The only way that the car will not run good times, is if I've got too much power for my slicks, or if the car breaks. Luckily my friends have got trailers. Keep your fingers crossed!

Ya for sure, I was pro at swapping back and forth between the MS and the factory computer. I'll do my best to get some video and pics this weekend at the track.

Okay folks, its been a long time since an Update! Its been a love / hate relationship with my Mega squirt. Finally some new firmware is now available and it actually lets you pick "LS1" as a crank trigger. Loaded her up and took it out for a spin. FINALLY the car pulls to red line with out any lost sync. issues! Runs exactly like I've been wanting it to. So as of now, I am running 10 psi, 8* of timing, and a 10:1 AFR. I am currently using the Chinese GT45 that you can get off of Ebay for 330$ shipped. I also swapped the cam to a Stock C5 Zo6 cam. Exhaust is 3" large for about 4 feet before it meets with my old X pipe then goes dual 3" out the back. Back when the car was N/A, I could make the car hook in 2nd gear. NOW, 4th gear is iffy Drag strip this Friday, here I come!

I think you'll get what you pay for, with that set up. Actually.... I KNOW you'll get what you pay for. If you've got the skills to make your own stuff, do it.

Sounds like pop corn popping! Looks like it runs good though. Congrats!

Sounds good!

I would say no, not necessary. When making my mount for the Q45 rear, I just put the diff in the Mustache bar, and used a jack on the front of the diff to raise it up until it was parallel with the ground. Haven't had an issue yet, and it has held up to some 1.4 60ft. launches.

I did not re-use any of the original battery cables for the starter or alternator. I ran a new wire from the alternator, to the starter. Then from the starter to the battery. From the battery, there were a few larger wires that power the inside of the car, I'm pretty sure I just put eyelets on them and connected them to the battery. I took the engine bay harness out of the car and weeded out the wires that i would not be needing. Such as voltage regulator wires, coolant temp / oil pressure sending unit wiring. You do not need to keep the original regulator. The pcm will take care of the LS1 alternator through the harness.

With the pan off the block, maybe try using a punch to see if you can knock out the "freeze plug" ? What pan did the motor come with, that had the dip stick in it? The dip stick tube seals with an o-ring of course, I've never had a leak issue on mine.

I'm sure where there is a will, there is a way. But how much extra room would you gain? I'm going to guess not too much, if I recall the lack of room was side / side, not up / down. So if you could fab the "mount piece that pops up off the stock X member" to be closer to the passenger side, then I think you would be onto something. If that makes any sense....