ColtGT4g63

nice, so how close are the manifolds to the frame rails? I test fit a set in mine and they seems pretty darn close.

Okay I wanted to give you all a little update on the car. No more 5.3! I ended up having oil pressure problems due to bearing / journal failure. Swapped out the 5.3 for a 4.8 I found on Craigslist for 300 bucks. Slapped on my 317 heads and LS6 cam. thew it all back in the car and started boosting the hell out of it right away. I'm far from done with upping the power, but took it out to the track to test things out a little bit before going for the gold. In the near future I'll be running the car on E85 and doing a little bit of dyno tuning. All of these runs are done on pump gas, and no more then 15* of timing. And an 11:1 AFR. Enjoy!

Truck manifolds?

Very cool, Do you know the power difference between 18psi and 24 psi? Maybe its time to upgrade the cam, no?

Congrats man! Awesome times for sure. Any video's without the music?

I have a new AEM kit that lets you set the boost pressure where you want it to come on, then the you set the max boost pressure where you want it to be spraying 100%. And it ramps it up accordingly in between. It has never seem to work right on my car though. But I've been having a few other issues which might be the problem. Hopefully I'll have the car all back together in the new few weeks and back out at the track if all goes well. Time will tell I guess.

I've got a methanol kit on the car with a toggle switch to turn it on and off. And So far I haven't even used it once! Need to get on that.

It was very tight, But ya... I melted the little plastic vent / whatever it is that sits on top of the steering rack from the exhaust being so close. My intercooler core dimensions are about 20" x 12" x 3". IAT's weren't tremendously high while I was racing, but they weren't ambient either.

Its VERY loud, and very stinky. But the car really only gets used at the race track, unless I'm driving it around tuning it. The stall is a 3500rpm, but I have been able to get it up to 4k on the trans brake. When I had the exhaust going through the turbo and my two 3" mufflers in the rear. It was extremely quiet. SO much in fact that you could hear the valve train noise over the exhaust.

Probably going to leave the exhaust as is. With the Auto in the car, I can't really tuck the exhaust up into the tunnel like I could with the T56. And it would probably hang extremely low. The way I've got it now seems to be the easiest solution.

wow dude! Very awesome!

I think you are going to have a really hard time fitting a 4" exhaust up in there and run it to the back. I was barely able to squeeze in my 3.5", and its only about 15" long.

I've got Mega Squirt on my Datsun with a stock harnes / jumper harness for the MS, Stock ECU / harness on my truck, and stock ECU /pieced together fire victim harness on my volvo. Yup, they've all got Gen3 motors in 'em.

page 4. Geo Tracker with an LS1. That has got to be my favorite car of 'em all!

I use an IAT with a 3/8 npt thread on it. So welding a bung onto metal pipe with a female 3/8npt is required. On another car, I was using ABS plastic for an intake pipe, so I drilled a hole slightly smaller then the threads, and just forced / screwed it right into the hole. No problem at all.

If you could post a wire diagram of the relay you are talking about, that would be great. You can run a ground switch in parallel with the trigger wire, shouldn't be a problem. Depending on which wire you choose to use for a ground trigger from the PCM, will cause the fan to trigger at different temperatures. The PCM is programed to have the low speed fan turn on at an earlier temp then the high speed fan. If you want it to turn on sooner, then hook it up to the low speed wire. I would not suggest changing the sensor just to make the fan turn on at a different temp. You'll effect other things by doing so. Like when the car goes into closed loop, fuel delivery, ect... If you really want to change things in the PCM like the fan functions, then you should get a tuning program like HPTuners and open up a world of options for yourself. Hope that helps.

I installed that exact remote bleeder on my T56 and it works fantastic.

Holy Cow!!! Those are some big numbers man! Congrats.

I think he just copied mine.

Thanks Dustin! I was a little hesitant to up the boost. For the longest time I've been fighting a "leaning out condition" No matter what I do to the fuel map, the car just leans out as the RPM's go up in 3rd gear. On my last runs at the track when looking back at the logs I noticed my Battery voltage dropping down to 10.5v region. So I ordered up a new higher amperage alternator, and threw it in the car already. Next track day is Oct. 8th. So I'll be testing it out to see if I can maintain the proper voltage. And at the same time see if I can get my AFR into the safe zone.

Ya I've got the JTR radiator in my car and it cools well. Bracket fits nicely too!

Have you tried looking at the wiring schematic in a chilton's service manual?

Yup! I am sure that's whats making all the difference here. I just wish I would have done this earlier. BTW, I threw my caliper in my bag at work yesterday to bring home. So I'll get some measurements for you by the week ends end.

I have also considered a twin set up. But think that you would just have twice the piping running everywhere. Who knows... I picked up a set of C6 manifolds off ebay for 83$ shipped. Not too bad in my opinion. Seems like with the new manifolds the turbo spools up a little bit quicker. Which is a relief! It was pretty laggy before. So Tonight I took the car out to the track. As always, ran into some snags... But Also ran some of the best times I ever have. The best time slip is: 6.6 @ 104 with a 1.52 60ft. Next best slip is 7.8 @ 106 with a not so good 60ft. On the 106 run the car was bogging / sputtering on the Tbrake some, and also off the line. Once I hit the 60ft. mark the car took off like nothing I have ever felt before and still trapped 106. Seems as if my old manifolds were holding me back big time! Every small turn of the boost controller would give me VERY noticeable gains. With the old manifolds, every time I upped the boost the car would get slower. And tonight I was able to run as much as 12psi.

So after much search for a way to get rid of my old turbo log manifolds I have finally found a solution. Being a lurker on "theturboforums" I found a guy using C6 vette manifolds flipped and upside down. They point forward / upward. And since they hug the block pretty good, I ordered me up a set and threw them on the car for a test fit. The passenger side comes pretty close to the inner fender, but it does not hit. And the closest point is just the outer portion of the flange anyways, no biggie. Naturally, I had to change the mid section on my manifold in order to accommodate the new manifolds. Nothing that the 'ol harbor freight tig can't take care of! I have also changed a couple other things with the car. I'm now running 317 heads Vs. my old 5.3 heads. Goal was to lower the compression so I can run some more boost safely. And I'm using an LS1 intake manifold Vs. m6 old LS6 manifold. (Had to borrow the LS6 for an N/A project) So the difference by ONLY swapping the manifolds was... no tire spin on the freeway, to: now I've got some tire spin on the freeway. I'm only running about 8 - 9psi too. Tomorrow I am taking the car out to the local 1/8th mile strip and as always... Will keep you all posted. Probably have a movie to post as well. Till next time.