ColtGT4g63

Okay fellas! Most of you know that I had previously had a turbo set up on the car. I was very dis pleased with it, got frustrated and removed it. I'm still glad that I did, because it ran MUCH better N/A then it did with the turbo. Well... the urge has hit me again, but this time I'm doing it a bit differently. For starters, I am re using the same exhaust manifolds but changing the 2 bolt flanges over to V band. For those who don't remember what the manifolds looked like, here is a memory refresher! I am also re using the same turbo. ( Ebay GT45 china turbo ) I have changed just about everything else that involves the turbo. my old Blow off valve set up - 2, 1st gen. eclipse turbo blow off valves did not work as well as I wanted them too. Every time the car was reved, shifted, or RPM's dropped the valves would open up and make a Hee haw noise. Hard to explain! This is what the old Blow off valve set up looked like. This time around I am using a Tial blow off valve, MUCH MUCH nicer I must say. Last time for a wastegate I used an Ebay 60mm wastegate. And guess what? I wasn't happy with that one either! The valve never sealed 100% so I was driving around with a permanent exhaust leak. Resulting in slower spool up time, and a false signal to my o2 sensors. This time around I am using 2, 38mm Tial V band wastegates. One mounted on each bank. New stuff: BLING! The cross over section has been changed as well. Originally I used some very thin 2.5" Stainless for this piece. I always had a fear of it being a little too thin, so I decided to change this section to 2.25" Schedule 10 Stainless with a flex section added. This is what the new cross over section looks like: I mounted everything up to my "spare engine" and welded it all together. I must say, it sure does make as a nice garage piece. And is a good conversation starter for all the Honeys that come over. It looked so awesome with out the turbo mounted, I decided to see how much more bad ass it would look with! I really forgot how big this damn thing is... OKay back on Track! Mounted up my wastegates, and welded on my flanges. So when I swapped the car back to N/A the first time. I had made a nice dual 3" exhaust with an X pipe. I really like how the exhaust turned out and did not want to get rid of it. So I thought of a way that I could have the turbo feed into the X pipe, and still exit out the mufflers. Whalla!!! It turned out pretty well i'de say! And the car is much quieter now, since its got a total of 2 mufflers, and a turbo to quiet it down. on my last set up I had a mesh screen covering the compressor inlet. This didn't provide much filtering, and allowed the turbo to suck in hot air coming off of the Driver side exhaust manifold. This time around I was determined to get some kind of cold air intake system going. Started off with making a big hole..... Had to do some serious pie cut action to get the radius's that I needed to make this thing go the direction I wanted it to. Believe it or not, this actually clears the strut tube AND the wheel at lock to lock. And will clear the wheel even more so when I swap to skinnies. The filter is not the biggest one around, but I feel better having a small filter suck in cold air, then no filter sucking in hot air. Next on the list is the fuel system, and fuel managment system. I wasn't about to run my old fuel system, which was the corvette regulator with a -6 line feeding to the front. This time around I added a -8 feed line to the front. Feeds a malory fuel pressure regulator with a boost reference vacuum port. and returns through a -6 line back to the tank. For my fuel managment, I ditched the stock computer all together and went to a full standalone system. I chose to go with the Mega Squirt V2.1 For those of you who haven't had a chance to play around with MS, you're missing out. Its very user friendly and easy to tune. I would highly recommend it to anyone. I made a jumper harness to go between the stock GM harness, and the MS unit. So if I really wanted to, I could plug the stock PCM back into the car. ( No idea why I would want to, but yaa) Running the car in speed density is pretty sweet! And not having o2 feed back is nice too. So this brings me up to my current state. i've got the car running, Part throttle map is pretty much done being tuned. I've put over 100 miles on the car since the turbo swap and have not even felt one hicup. Seems to run pretty good! Once I can schedule some dyno I'm going to get some WOT tuning done. Just wanted to share with you all where I'm at with the car. Here are some pics of the final product.

That's not a bad price!. What do the MSD wires look like? straight, or 45* angle? How well do they work?

How much did those plug wire socks set you back? Last I checked they were pretty pricey.

I use to run my exhaust exactly like this, I would always drag the 3.5" straight section on the ground. But seemed to work pretty good. I had a Round magnaflow 3.5" muffler back there. The exhaust like this was also pretty loud, Here's a video of it on the dyno running this exhaust.

I had 3" dual with an X pipe. 9" straight through oval Magnaflow mufflers, as well as 2 resonators. o2 sensors just after the collectors also. The car is loud. No rear o2 sensors, I trimmed the wires all the way up to the PCM plug. Video of car with just resonators installed (no mufflers): I don't have any video's of the car with mufflers on, but its still pretty loud.

I use spark plug wires from summit, # SUM-867828 I just stuff a couple layers of heat wrap between the boot and the header. Seems to work perfectly fine.

I don't understand how that was not a real answer?? But anyways... Maybe you should start with trying to figure out why you can't read the computer with a scanner. Whatever car the computer came from, look at the wiring diagram for that car and see how the communication wire is hooked up. If you've got it all wired up correctly and still can't communicate then I would start looking for a new computer. But make sure that whatever sensors / distributor / whatever you've got in there match what the computer you're going to pick up. Example: I would not buy a PCM for a 2004 Avalanche to replace the PCM for my 02 LS1. (Even though they're both gen3 motors and the PCM's look / have almost the same harness connector.)

Take it back to the "place" that did the work, and ask 'em whats up?

1 second with 3/8 impact gun does the trick.

Anytime!

Looks like what I got when I made my turbo manifolds. 22$ is an awesome price!!!

This is all I've got to contribute. Hope it helps!

What he said.

I shift around 6700, and it pulls the entire time. Have not dyno'd with my current set up.

Not a huge difference, I did not dyno with the 224 though. With the Tq.V.2 I made 411 at the wheels with stock 243 heads and my old shitty single exhaust. I felt a little less grunt down low, and a little more top end. This is what they told me about the MS3. He said that you need long tubes to take advantage of the cam. And I asked him, " will I gain any power at all? " he said, " yes, but not as much. " So I said, " screw it, sign me up. "

When I first got started, I was running a 224R from TSP, it was good for low end, but not too much upper end. By the sound of the idle you knew there was something in there, but it wasn't "crazy" sounding by any means. Swapped it out for a Torquer V.2 from TSP, I broke even selling my old cam and buying the V2. its got more duration and higher lift so I thought why the hell not. I was using the comp 918 springs at the time so I couldn't go over .6" lift. The Torquer V.2 is JUST under that, so it was my only option for up grading unless I wanted to change out the valve springs. Swapped that out for a MS3. When I installed a set of ported heads from TSP, I got the head / cam package and went with their advice on which cam works best with which head. This cam is really bumpy and aggresive, but still drives around the street perfectly fine. I wouldn't have any problem buying either of them again, so long as it suits the cars needs. Since my need right now is to make as much power as I can, the bigger cam was prefered over a smaller cam.

Damn, you're probably about 5 miles from my house. If you want you could cruise over sometime and I'll take you for a spin in my Z, so you can decide if its really want you want. I'm willing to bet that you'll want it twice as much as you want it now, after 2 minutes in the car.

Mine starts every time, every day, and never hesitates, drives perfectly smooth with out ANY hicups. gets excellent fuel economy on the freeway, and never lacks the power to get out of its own way, Even in 6th gear.

Alright!!! Another San Diagan. What part of town are you living in? I've done the swap in my car, and live within 20 miles of you. Feel free to ask me any questions that you might have. It'll be fun to have another LS1 Z around here.

Driver side got capped. This is where the EVAP purge went to: http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0442.JPG My intake is a non EGR so I did not have to worry about that. The passenger side has a line from the valve cover, and another from both valve covers: http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0441.JPG

Ya that's probably it. I'm a metric guy, standard sizes aint my thing!

You can go to home depot and buy a long rod of 5/8" steel dowel. ('m pretty sure its 5/8ths) Cut it in half, clean it, grease it, and stick it in the oil galley's for for lifters behind the cam retainer plate. It does the same thing as the "special tool" you can buy for 100$ I've used it to hold the lifters up every time I've changed the cam so far and it works like a champ.

I think nitrous will be my last resort. I like the whole idea of being able to start the car, put in pump gas and go. I don't want to have to worry about "re-filling" my horse power. That video is sweet man!! I would love to get a Hi res copy of it. Just sign up and request it?

Thanks dude, I have an 8 point cage, harnesses, drive shaft loop, open lug nuts, metal valve stems/caps, fire resistant jacket, battery under the hood. Seems like I've got all that you would need, but the tech guy told me that I could not run under an 11.5 or else I would be kicked out. After running sun 11.5, 6 times in a row the lady who gives you the time slips told me that she was asked to check my car and make sure I've got a cage, and a fire jacket. Once she saw it she told me to go have some fun. Some people had big problems with the tech there, and some people passes with flying colors. Front springs are a 125lb spring rate. I've got just about every bolt on I can get. I've got PRC stage 2.5 truck heads on there. CNC ported with biggie valves. Fast 92mm intake and PTM 92mm throttle body, Magic Stick 3 cam with a 113LSA, Dual 3" exhaust with an X pipe. 36lb / hr. injectors. I would guess I'm making somewhere in the 450 hp range. I'll be getting it dynoed sooner then later. I'm at the point where the next mod is going to get expensive, stroker motor... Super charger... Nitrous? Turbo again? Hahaha

Those are some awesome pics! Of course I don't mind you posting my times / video's. That's what they're there for. I've got some 26 x 8.5 x 15 Mickey Thompson ET drags mounted on some stock wheels. I'm using the MT tubes as well, along with some summit racing wheel Bolts to keep the rim from spinning inside the tire. Rear suspension is Tokico blue struts with QA1 175lb spring rates. The springs are sitting on some Cosmo coil over adjustable sleeves. And diff set up is the Q45 with custom axles. Chris had a SERIOUS launch before his car broke. I swear, one more mm and the front tires would be off the ground.