ColtGT4g63

I'm not running the 2 bar speed density yet, I have to get a whole other PCM to do so since the serial number burned into my current PCM is not identifiable. Anywho... the car starts running like ass when I'm just cruising. Not even in any kind of boost. I'm honestly contemplating selling this kit. Who would be interested? And what kind of price range would it be worth? I have no idea. Things were much less complicated when I was N/A. Ahhhh the good 'ol days....

I've got a 14" spal pusher stuffed between the radiator and the intercooler. Seems to be doing the trick. This car is going to be down for a little while. I can't seem to get it running right, and its doing a very good job of frustrating the hell out of me. I need to take a step back and relax. Seems like it only runs good at WOT, which would be good if it was a track only car. But my intentions for the car are to have a reliable, drive every day if I want to street / strip car. ugh......

Yes, you should have power the connector.

What happens at that wire with the engine running?

If you have a hot wire going from the Alternator post, to the battery. And also have 12V at the wire in the plug with the engine running, and still have no charge, then you need to replace the alternator. That is providing that the alternator is grounded properly.

What did you do to make it work? Enlighten all of us.

Those are not coil connectors, they are the ones that plug into the inside of the car, I just labeled what needed what.

You need to feed the pink wires a 12V ignition switched source. I think its an orange wire... Don't qoute me though, that needs to have a constant 12v feed. You need to be more specific with your answers bro. We're here to help you, but in order for that to happen, you need to help us. You say you checked everything, but failed to mention about having no power here.... and yadda yadda yadda.. Heres a couple pics I took along that way that might help you wire things up correctly. I labeled each wire that has a specific place it needs to go. http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0060.JPG http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0061.JPG http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0062.JPG Oh ya... and, Your welcome.

The cam sensor plugs in on the top of the block in the back, right next to where the stock oil pressure sensor is located. Okay.... Heres what i want you to check, then get back to us. There are two pink wires that feed the coils power. These pink wires also feed the power side of the injectors as well. So with the key on, check for power at your injectors, and also at your coils. Also, There are grounds that bolt to the back side of the passenger head. Make sure that they have a good connection and are grounded well. Also, Ground the engine block to the chassis to ensure that the grounds on the head make continuity with the chassis. Let us know what you come up with!

Does it start then Die right away? Or does it just have no spark, period? When I get home I can look at a wire diagram and tell you which wires to check for power at. Do you have any kind of scanner / data reader? You have both crank, and cam sensor plugged in?

I'll probably set the fuel fat as a starting point, set the boost to 10, then start tuning for my target AFR. I've been around forced induction long enough to see what happens when you lean out / or start detonating.

Sort of... Now I've got a whole bunch of little things to work out. I swapped the car over to the new heads just this past weekend and got it running. Have fatty exhaust leaks on the header flanges from re using the factory gaskets too many times. Also... Before I take her to the track, I need to finish the roll cage, install the drive shaft loop, and buy me some fire proof clothing. And get the boost set with a good amount of tuning. I already know the car is going to be a monster. I went out for a little test drive, hit 6psi at roughly 1/2 throttle and left a certain individual's RB26 powered Z in the rear view. I am going to run about 10 psi and tune with that.

comes with everything you see here: I'm in the same state as JTR so it only took a few days to get mine. I'de say less then 2 weeks for sure anywhere else in the US.

From what I've heard in the past, you may want to sump the stock tank. I hear that its got little to no baffling. And could run dry on ya if the fuel level drop below a certain point. A surge tank might not be a bad idea as well. But that stuff wouldn't be necessary to get the car running. What about radiator hoses? Hoses for the heater core? throttle cable? going to run it open headers for a while? got your drive shaft already made? Are you going to make the R230 mount or buy the MM one? I think that you're going to have this done in one weekend, its a HUGE amount of work. But if you do... I will bow down and call you the engine swapping master.

Okay, I re-routed the PCV lines, added an oil feed restricter and took the car out for a spin, NO SMOKE!! WHAHOO! So I installed my 60# injectors, and went out for a little cruise. Ya, the video sucks but you can get an idea of how loud the turbo is, and how fast it spools. So far, this China turbo is doing an alright job.

Keep in mind that a cam swap also requires changing the front balancer seal, and the front timing chain cover gasket, and new crank bolt, as well as new valve springs to accommodate the higher lift cam. ( if you want to do it the right way ) Also, the new heads should get new head gaskets and new hardware for installation. This adds a little bit more but could still be done close to $1,000. With completely stock ZO6 heads, and an average sized cam I was able to make 411hp. So its very doable.

1. Year of motor/mods: 2001 LS1 pulled from a Firebird Formula1, Engine has a Torquer V.2 Cam / Comp 918's, 243 heads from 2002 Zo6, HPtuners, twin Walbro 255's with 60# injectors, Custom built turbo kit with GT45 turbo built by yours truly. 2. Tranny: Stock T56 with ran power grip clutch / chromoly flywheel. 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts: JCI engine mounts and Trans mount. 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, including fuel, wiring, etc: JTR radiator with mounting bracket, summit fuel cell, Vats removed from PCM, Q45 differential with custom MM axles, Auto meter gauges- RPM, speed, oil pressure, water temp, boost, fuel level, Zietronix wide band controller. 5. Date you started on the project, date finished: Started project Late 2007 and finished late 2007 / early 2008. 6. Other car mods (suspension, brakes, etc.) The car has a 6 point roll bar, soon to be 10 point cage. BomZ racing seats with 4 point harness, custom wheels / tires. Grant steering wheel. Tokico shocks with cosmo coil over sleeves / QA1 springs. Stock brakes I've also got a set of Mickey Thompson 26 x 8.5 x 15's for the track.

This thread gives me some serious De Ja Vu. I was in the SAME boat that you are in, a couple months ago and ended up deciding to go turbo.

oil pressure sensor the for gauge in the instrument cluster

yup, you guys are right. and yes, that line in the picture needs to go to a catch can for sure. This is all stuff that I'll be working on this weekend. After I stop doing James bond smoke screens down the road I'll make a little video and post up.

This just in... I got my new O2 sensors installed and was actually able to drive the car!!! WAHOOO!!! BTW, the turbo sounds amazing. Now for my next set of issues... Smoke out the tail pipe under any boost. I can have the boost gauge at "zero" at any rpm, but the second I see 1psi + I get smoke. I need to get myself a catch can, boost in the crank case is bad. I also need to adjust the oil return line a little so its at a constant downward angle, and install my oil feed line restrictor once it comes in. So this coming week end i'll work on that stuff, as well as get the injectors installed and hopefully converted to speed density. Actually driving the car and hearing the turbo spool was worth the entire wait.

Front tires are 245 - 45 - 16 Well I ended up having to redo the exhaust, it was hanging WAY too low. Tuesday my O2 sensors should arrive, then I'll be able to take the car out and do a little tuning. Trust me, video's will happen as soon as the car is video worthy.

LS1 Header flanges PN 12480130 - 23.40$ x 2 = 46.80$

For my fuel system, I was running an inline walbro 255, with the stock C5 regulator / filter. I was feeding the rail with the stock 240Z fuel line even. Car dyno'd 411hp like this. Car started hot / cold every time, anytime.

Try contacting member - synthtk He is in San Diego Also, and have the flares installed on his car. His car is the one behind mine in my sig. pic.