Bernardd

Jeffp suggested I try those as well. We've got 91 oct as our premium gas in Manitoba. I'm going to try this as soon as I can get a set.

I'm using a grainger valve to control boost. I'm having a hard time getting it to work. It seems to be allowing air thru to the wastegate. I have to tighten the wastegate actuater arm to increase boost. Do these things fail? There's nothing in it really to fail. I've tested the valve with regulated air and it was set to bypass air at 15 psi but sometimes it will allow a small amount of air to the wastegate before opening completely. Any else have this issue? Bernard

Take a paper clip or something similiar and probe the "B" terminal (Maf) with the voltmeter connected to the clip. Connect the other lead to a chassis ground or pin C. Turn the key on and you should have 1.6vdc. Start the car and you should have 2.6 or so. Revving the car a little should make the voltage increase. Start the test over by connecting the lead you had on the "B" terminal inserted into pin 31 on the ecu connector. I believe it's the smallest connector of the three plugged into the ecu. Connect the other lead to a chassis ground. You should have 1.6vdc with the key on and 2.6 or so with the car running. Another problem that could causing this is the tps connector. Only two terminals are used on the turbo model. Connect the voltmeter in ohm meter mode across the two terminals that are used. They should be closed (zero or low resistance) with the throttle body closed. They should open up when opening the throttle body. I think they are pins 26-19 at the ecu connector, not sure but you should check at the ecu as well. Hope that helps. Bernard

I don't see how changing the chip can make a difference. The timing in the chip is unaltered until high load. The only thing I can think of is that when the injectors where changed the timing wasn't properly adjusted. I've reprogrammed many chips and not once has the distributor needed to be adjusted because of it. Perhaps the tps wasn't shorted when the timing was done. Bernard

The car should go into limp mode when the maf is unplugged and only rev to 2500 rpm or so. It should be running real rich if the maf is faulty.

I'm in Canada. Check here http://z31.com/oboard/archives/view.pl?151 The stock maf will put out around 1.6vdc at key on and around 2.6 with the engine running.

The ecu # says it's a 84 turbo (california) auto ecu. You need to call JWT and ask them what the ecu is programmed for. They use either the stock (z31) maf or the mustang cobra maf (93). You also need to make sure you're getting the correct voltage between pin31 and chassis ground. If you need a known good z31 maf, I've got two of them. Bernard

Your tps should go open about 150rpm above idle. If it's not set right you'll be in idle mode too long.

z31 ecu swap time????? You can use a 88 maxima ecu if you reprogram it as well. I've seen turbo ecu's go for 35 dollars. The maf's are cheap and then all you need is the Cas. I would think you could get something together for 100 dollars or so to ensure safe boost. Bernard

Got my z32 maf working with my z31 ecu. I'll be doing some tuning over the next little while to get a feel for how everything works. More to come. Bernard

I received an email today about a class action against paypal. Is this BS or something I should look into? Supposedly anyone that's opened an account at paypal from Oct/99 to Jan/04 is included if they want to be or you can opt out. Any lawyers on the forum that have heard about it? Bernard

I had the same thing when I first swapped. Firstly what do your plugs look like? Sounds like you're running lean. It could be a vacuum leak or you need to adjust the maf. There's a plug on the side of it similiar to the afm on the l28et. Try that or raising fuel pressure a little. Bernard

I use ford injectors from the 80-84? 5.0 CFI engines. The last three digits are 400 on the injector. Each engine has two mounted in a plastic spider looking mount. Easily removed using brute force. 8) They're rated at 440cc and bolt right in. Bernard Edit: The covers on the end of the injector have to be removed. Exacto Knife works perfectly. Edit #2: These are low impedance injectors.

I suppose if you just absolutely have to deal with this (you don't have to do anything) you can get a resistor valued to set the temp to whatever you want. (the curve is in the FSM for the 280zx and is the same as the chts) Unless you're installing the fp control unit from a z31, you won't be needing this sensor at all. If you get a code from the ecu it doesn't matter, it won't effect the way the car runs at all. Good luck with the swap.

Don't worry about the fuel temp sensor. It's for hot startups, coupled with the fuel pressure modulator or something like that, it's used to increase fuel pressure. Bernard

Read here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

That was for Labrat. I sold him mine. I was the "dude" he bought it from. Just so we're clear. Bernard

As far as I know you can use the 83-84 4spd auto overdrive from a Maxima or an 84 AOD from a 300zx. I believe you only have to change the bell housing and the perhaps the converter to work with the L28ET. 240Z Turbo has adapted a GM (powerglide?) to his engine. His kit may work for others as well. Edit: I forgot about the tranny mount.

It's a stock wheel. Stage 1.

I've got one you can have.

Thanks Austin. That's the info I was looking for.

What size exhaust wheel are you running? I'm having a problem finding an exhaust swing valve assembly to fit onto the back of my turbo. My new turbo has is a t3 .82 a/r with a stage 3 wheel.