Bernardd

Max = 11.5-11.8 any less and I get pinging with 91 octane light load = 15.1-14.5 Part throttle = 13.2-12.8 I idle at about 13.1 or so with 8 heat range, non protruding plugs.

Check your PM POSTM. In the tech sheet from KEAS he shows how to delete cushion plates and replace them with (all) frictions and steel plates. I'm going to do this to both drums and replace the band with a new one from Borg Warner. The clearance is also reduced from .085 to .035. I haven't checked to see if the larger servo will bolt straight in yet but in the event it doesn't, what can be done to make it fit. I'll probably end up rebuilding the entire tranny seeing as it's going to be totally apart anyway.

I'll send the sheets over. I've found a B&M shift improver kit that I've purchased so I'm going to look over that as well. I have the servo out of a 4n71b. It's a 80-44 compared to the stock turbo servo which is a 72-44. As far as I understand it's size is the limiting factor as to how much pressure and ultimately grab the servo band can apply. Bernard

Somethings not right. With 20psi fp and stock injectors the car shouldn't even start.

I bought myself the pump, hose and progressive controller for under 200.00 canadian. I need to pick up a couple of nozzles then I'll install it. I used the parts list off of a DIY kit and a controller is easy to find in kit form for 50.00 or less. Mine was 36.00 can. My tranny is really going to hate me now.

Mine doesn't actually slip, it's a slow shift from 2-3. Revs up before grabbing. I asked (and was charged for) a shop to shim the pressure reg valve and the pressure modifier valve along with enlarging the holes for the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift in the separater plate. I bumped into a guy that works on tranny's all the time so he's going to help me out with some tools. I'm going to modify the tranny as per the tech sheet from keas. If all is good I'll pick up a full manual valve body. The other thing is the servo piston. It needs to be bigger.

right click on the file, select rename, remove .zip extension, hit enter. Use file. z32 and z31 ecu's have the same structure as far as the mapping goes. The same theory that applies to the z32 ecu works with the z31 ecu. The relevant maps are in the .adr and .ini files.

This is the formula for fuel map: if Data > 128 then Multiplier = (DATA - 64 / 128 ) else Multiplier = (DATA + 128/128 ) The value of 192 you're seeing is one. Whatever the ecu has calculated for that load point and rpm, the ecu multiplies it by the forumula above to get it's actual pw. In romeditor some of the values are blue. They are the learn area of the map, as well as the feedback area. Meaning the ecu is allowed to correct fueling based on o2 readings. Enter the #'s in the formula and you'll see what I mean. This is how I first tuned my ecu for larger injectors. I didn't know about the k value so I adjusted each point in the fuel map by a multiplier. Worked very well.

I've been looking into this for a while as well. Here's a link to a website that specializes in Jatco's. http://www.keas.com.au/default.asp They've sent me a rebuild tech sheet for holding up to 700hp. They have valve bodies for full manual shifting as well as transbrakes. He quoted me 1800 AU for a built tranny plus shipping. I can forward the tech sheets to you if you want to have it looked at by a shop. I also have a shift improver mod sheet that I can send over. I had my trans done by a local shop two years ago. It started slipping again last year so I took out the trans for a look at it. The shop that did my rebuild didn't do the valve body mods correctly so that's most likely my problem. I've found that the servo piston is really small on our trans so I'm going to swap it out from a 4n71b if it fits. I'm also going to install a couple of extra clutch disks. If the line pressure is increased enough, along with shift kit mods, the tranny is plenty strong enough.

I've uploaded (downloads forum) a file for romeditor and one for live edit. Make sure the binfile is 32k in size. What are you trying to tune?

Depends on what you want to do. Do you have the equipment to burn proms?

Is there any truth to the myth that the L28 head suffers with water injection? I've read it looks like swiss cheese after some time. I've never seen pics or anyone that's actually got evidence.

I just removed the resistors and that's it.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8360MafMod.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8360MafMod2-med.JPG The small resistor is #'d R201. You can install different resistors where the large green ones are to change your limp mode voltage.

Get your car running first. I'd much prefer to help you tune your own ecu. Let me know when your ready to upgrade. Bernard

Decide for yourself if it's hard or easy. http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html We should start a new thread if you have any questions.

300 dollars is a bit steep for what you really need. You can buy a brand new built and tested burner from batronix for 100 bux or so. If you buy eeproms you don't need to buy an eraser. You can also buy a laptop and use live edit to tune on the fly with a romulator. The only restrictive thing about the z31 ecu IMO is the maf. You need to change the stock maf out for a higher flow maf such as a z32 maf or Lightning maf. When I chose the z31 maf there weren't any cheap options other than SDS. It does take a bit of time to figure out the changes necessary in a Nissan ecu but to date I've got a dozen or so people tuning Nissan ecu's. It's very easy once you've got the theory understood, but that probably applies to any ecu. I would only consider MS as an option to the z31 ecu for a L28ET.

I ran mine in the stock o2 sensor location all of last summer with no problems. Works great for me, I wish had grabbed the aux output for maf voltage, rpm and all that at the same time. Bernard

I did it for a year with no problems. It's not the injectors, it's the ecu that can be damaged. I always had a spare ecu with me just in case.

You can add quite a bit of base timing at that psi. I've run 27+deg base setting at that psi. with no knock. Did you get the afr's logged? And what trim is the exhaust wheel? Bernard

http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/misc/GasFAQ.html Section 7 is where you want to go.

Thanks, guys. I've found a pile of meth and ethanol compatible type of injectors that are oem. Ford has the most M85 or E85 injectors out. It's going to be a pain to mount the injectors so I'll probably just go with mcmaster carr misting nozzles. I've already got a progressive controller for 30 bucks off of autospeed. I need to get a pump and install everything. Question for Clifton: Did you change your tune at all after installing your setup? By that I mean lean it out or add timing? We only get 91 octane here so I'm forced to run 11 to 1 afrs with a fair amount of timing retard to avoid knock. If you did change it how much further were you able to go?

What kind of oil are they using? Reg two stroke oil? Klotz? I've seen some types for that purpose, but I'd like to hear what is working. It's only been a few days but so far the ford bosch injectors I'm testing haven't rusted or clogged with a 50/50 mix. Bernard