Bernardd

Ditto

I'm looking for an ecu if you've got it for the car. I'd also like the efi harness and cas. Is it a na or turbo car?

Check your PM. Bernard

Your answer is here: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=501&sid=5da5670bac56c1d226e7b319a0095b1f I'll be tuning a buddy's R32 in spring.

The gain is something I have to work out a bit more. I have to replace a resistor with a potentiometer and it should work. Should be under 20 bux to get it to work.

What are you using for the meth/water? Kit, diy? What? I'm doing the same for next summer. I have some ideas on a cheapo progressive controller that controls pump speed off of a map, maf, tps, whatever you want. Bernard

Sticky in the turbo/supercharger section.

I've got a z32 maf with a z31 ecu, 440cc injectors. I reprogrammed the ecu and it works great for me. I've got the maf installed in the stock afm location with both intercooler pipes above the maf. It's kinda tight but works.

Yep it's the same signal as the vg distributor. I have some scope shots of the signal if you want/need to send them over to them. Bernard

Alex, how do you find the lag on a setup like that? I've had the v trim wheel with a stock exhaust housing and wheel that would hit full boost pretty much instantly anything above 2500. Currently I'm running a 55lb/hr t04b wheel with a .82 ar stage 3 wheel. I don't get full boost until around 4k. The power is higher for sure but the lag bugs me. I don't rev my engine beyond 6k. I've been have swingvalve problems that will be addressed with a new external wastegate as well. Perhaps that was the problem. I'm just curious at what rpm a stage V would hit full boost. Bernard

Here's the link to what I'm looking at. I was thinking of getting a wastegate solenoid ala Buick GN. http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1400.htm There's a .pdf with a schematic and instructions. Bernard

I'm making an alcohol injection kit for my car and in the process of doing research I came across a site that has a progressive alcohol controller. What this allows you to do is inject less alcohol sooner and then ramp it up to what's needed at high boost. (Don't try and talk me out of it. It's proven and it works.) So I did some research on speed controllers for dc motors. That lead me to a bunch of sites that have kits to control a motor's speed. So to get to the point I'm thinking I can also use one of these controllers to control boost by opening and closing a wastegate solenoid. A hobbs switch can turn on the controller (same as in the alky app) and then you can set the pwm to open and close at a set rate to control the boost. Would a stepper motor work? Anyone with some thoughts on this? Bernard

Did you figure out what was causing your timing to go wonky? Bernard

I've found some trans shops in Australia that have made the jatco tranny withstand 500hp at the wheels. Full manual valve bodies as well as trans brake valve bodies are available along with the upgraded components needed inside. Websearch for Keas will get you to the website. I'll be removing the tranny in the next couple of weeks to see what is needed. Bernard

So far there is no indication that the oil has overheated after 4000 km's. The line pressure has been bumped up and some of the holes for the shift valves have been enlarged. I've also got a 17k lb rv trans cooler on it. The two places in Australia that make the valve mody into a full manual require or suggest that a larger servo piston be installed. I'll have to look into that. Bernard

Any of you tranny guys know enough about valve bodies to help out in trying to make a jatco auto into a full manual valve body (doesn't have to be full manual). I've found two company's in Australia that make 'em so I know it's possible. I need to make the 2-3 shift quicker. The engine revs up 500-1000 rpms during the 2-3 shift. Lower the boost and it shifts fine. Bernard

z31's don't have sequential injection. You're wiring is correct for the M30ecu. That's how I was gonna do it.

Went out last night for some testing. I regapped to 35 and the car runs better when cold and fine once warmed up. Boost is set at 15.5 psi and no pinging at all. I haven't tried the -11's yet. I had to add a bit more fuel because at low 14's and high 13 afr's the car misses a bit.

How much boost is 3.13 volts? That's the exact same rpm that I have difficulty with. Major richness (you're already there) and reduced timing got rid of my knock in that area. I don't know much about the sds but can you reduce timing in a specific load area? You may also want to add fuel/reduce timing just before the knock occurs. Check that: I re-read your post and at 5psi I can't see why you'd have a problem. I can run 12:5 afr's no problem with low boost , my problems occur at 15+psi. Are any of your plugs white? Perhaps an injector is clogged or something.

Found my problem. I used a variable air supply and did some testing. Firstly my grainger valve has shims in it and they weren't straight so the ball wasn't seating properly. Secondly my home designed wastegate/downpipe/swingvalve setup isn't moving freely. I didn't install a sleeve around the swingvalve stem. The car will be off the road in two weeks for storage so I'll have to address that.

I tuned my chip to stay around 13.5 just before boost (wot) hits then it drops down to 12.5 or so to about 8psi, then beyond that I go down to 11.0-11.5. Anything leaner than that and I get knock. And with 91 octane I can't go much above 15psi. I'd say the critical thing is how much power/torque you're making and the area you make it at is most likely where the knock will occur. That's my experience so far. Bernard

Idle is 13.5-13.9 to 1. Richer is smoother on my engine. Cruise varies from 14.0-1 to 13.1-1. EGT's in town cruising are around 800-1000. EGT's are 1150-1200 on hwy, the probe is installed behind the turbo.

I just got in from a ride with the old plugs. I changed nothing other than the plugs. Car runs fine again. I'll have to mess around with the gapping and try again.

I ran the BPR8ES's (found some ngk's) last night. The car did not seem to like them. I think I may have another issue as well because the the car was idling rich and then would go lean off throttle. I pulled the plugs and they had white on them. I'm having trouble with my boost controller so I need to investigate that a bit more before I can say for sure the plugs were causing this. I also need to play with the gap a bit to find out how that's effecting everything.

John: I've ordered a set of the -11's. I can get the same spec different brand name that the shop swears are made by ngk anyway. Or cancel and go with the same ones you're picking up? By the way did you try the 8 heat range the regular ngk's? Edit: I just realized that you regapped them so I can do the same.