zmaster

I am reconsidering a Rb26dett swap for my 75 280z again.I was wondering is there more work than what it seems to be in order to get everything to work like it should, wiring, mounts, driveshaft, clutch?

If it is the distributor, then why did it always start up as soon as I turn the key? Should I check the timing, and what should the timing be set to on a stock motor, but if it just a vapor lock issue will the fuel cooler help and fix this problem?

do you have pics of the damages if there are any???? how bad is it?

So lets just say I wanted 15 lbs of boost, I first need a bigger turbo, but will the stock internals of a rb26dett be able to handle that much boost?, or should i replace the internals with forged? I want a rb motor because the only ls2 engines i am finding are really expensive like 8 grand, and when i figure in all the other expenses to make that setup work, i start to think i will get more power with less money with a rb 26dett setup I will look into twin turbo setups on ls1 and ls2 engines today to see what i come up with.

I have a few questions that I am not really finding on here in the search. First I would like to know whcih engine is better (performance wise) the RB25dett or the RB26dett? The second question is, how high can the boost be set on the stock motors? The r3eason I am asking this is because I am starting to lean away from a LS2 engine, and back into wanting a RB motor. I want to stay l6 because it should be lighter, and faster than the ls2

Do you think if I run one of these before my injectors, it would keep the fuel cold enough to where it wont make any more vapor? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D4136&N=700+115&autoview=sku

now i have the factory manual

I used to be discuraged with my 280z, and i kinda am right now because it broke down and i had to get it towed. Did you have to weld new mounts to the frame, or did you use the stock location, i also want to do a rb swap that is why i am asking?

thats just plain rude, and inconsiderate

lol I know. its a quote from vin diesel from the fast and the furious movie.

the new rotor that i boughtwas made like this. there were two pieces a metal tab and the plastic rotor. the metal tab had a hol drilled in it and then the rotor was molded into the hole to hold the thing together. The plastic got warm, softened, and flew off. there is not that much damage done inside the distributor luckily. Basically what I am saying is the metal tab was held on by a 1/4 inch hole filled with the plastic the rotor was made of there were no rivits holding this on the rotor. The fuel pump is working, and pumping gas, fuel pressure is still 32-34 psi, spark from what i can tell is the same before and after this happened, timing is correct, I am going to check the injectors this friday when i go to my dads house.

hahaha lol

(Sorry for the long repost) if it is vapor lock how would i fix this??? should i keep cranking the engine over, or is there some other way I could get rid of air in the line?. would i be able to get a aluminum fuel rail with the heat sink fins, like a few other people on here have done, and would that solve my fuel vapor problem? I have also searched on google for an aftermarket fuel rail, but i really can't pin one down. If anyone has one for sale, or part # and where they purchased it that would be great. would i be able to still use the stock injectors if i went this route? Has anyone else had problems with vapor lock on the stock L6 engines? This is the first problem I have encountered with this car so I jumped the gun, and started saying they aren't reliable, I have seen these cars get at least 300,000 miles before they are junked, so i know they are reliabsle.

(This might take a while to read) I finally broke down 32 miles from my house, and 8 miles from my dads house, so now my car is sitting in front of my dads house without shelter, and under a tree none the less. Heres what happened. I was driving on the highway, and taking the exit off, and the engine shut off, so i coasted into the gas station, where i figured out what happened. The metal tab on the new rotor that i just replaced fell off (it doesn't have more than 40 miles oin this new part), luckily i had the old rotor with me, and put it on, and I thought i would be on my way....nope, now it the engine turns over, but it won't start. I pulled a few spark plugs, because i thought the coil went out, but I am still getting spark, so now i am thinking i am not getting fuel. (BEFORE anyone says it I have about half a tank so I did not run out of gas) my fuel pressure guage is reading 34 psi so i have fuel pressure, now i am guessing the injectors aren't firing, unfortunately i have to wait till friday night until i am able to work on my Z. I thought if the fuel rail gets too hot on these cars, it will cause the gas to bubble and put air in the lines which would make it not starts either. Anyones answers are greatly appreciated, and useful to me at this point. I am starting to think these L6 motors aren't that reliable (correct me if I am wrong) But this makes me want to do a engine swap even more.

If I only lived in L.A. oh well. I think its about time a older Z car is in one of those movies. now I can't wait to see this movie with those nice z cars.

well i kinda figured. monday, i will hit the highway again, and will try and see if it will make it pass 85. can't do it today, because of rain and thunderstorms.

no exhaust restriction, or bent exhaust pipes. my setup is completely stock except for a cold air intake with a K&N air filter. No it does not have cruise control, what would a vacuum leak do? no aftermarket ecu YET. I want to have some fun with my stock engine before i buy a LS2 motor.

when i am in the car and hit 85 i can feel the car pull to 85 mph, and then it will stop, then it slows down by about 2 mph, then i can feel the car pull back to 85 and it does this repeatedly. i really want to faster than 85 Where should i look if someone put a govenor on my car? where should i start?

yes i do believe there is a govenor, because i give it full throttle, and it hit 85 really fast, and then it slows down then speeds up tyo 85, and repeats. I want to drive this car semi stock for now, and i have seen the stock 280z's hit 120, so how did they do it? how do you modify the govenor? I will do some more searching on the govenor.

hmm maybe going 155 mph will damage the diff, stock clutch, and transmissions, and blow up the motor LOL

I got on the highway yesterday, and i found out my 75 280z coupe with a 4 speed manual will not go past 85 mph does anyone know how i can stop the govenor from restricting me to 85 mph? I want a track car that will pass 85 mph can anyone help? Please

I heard killing a bird, or if a bird hits your house window it's a bad omen,

could be too high of a compression which could be a fluke..., or detonation, but there would be damage to the top of the piston if there was detonation.too high of rpm's can you recall what the rpm's were when this happened, thats all i can think of right now. Or the piston rings could have been instaled improperly, which would cause them to fracture, and when you hit those high rpm's, or high compression, or if that cylnder had a little detonation could have caused the fracture to break completely. Thats just my .02 cents on my engine knowledge.

I just found this place a few minitues ago, they have some nice built GM 350, and LS, and LQ9 engines, they also have some off road engines. http://turnkeyenginesupply.com/products.html I would love to buy this motor for my 280z...... LS2 700 H.P with supercharger this motor is insane http://turnkeyenginesupply.com/street_60700.htm before anyone says something about the price....I can only say one thing. A guy with s z can only dream of such a awesome motor can't he?

i guess now you can finally say a honda is fast.... lol