yo2001

300zxtt BOV/recirculate valves suppose to be design to leak under same condition to improve the throttle responce also. I have not cruched my DSM BOV yet but it'll hit 23 psi no problem.

Some DSMer has done the second vaccum mod. Suppose to work well. MR2 got good BOV also. Blitz got nice sound to it. I've seen it flutter under partial throttle though. I liked Greddy type-S on Zcar, it's easy to recirculate.

Crush it some it'll stop leaking.

metal ring=melted and done See, #5 runs leaner than others. 8) That's where I broke two of my HG. I don't know the exact reasons but I think it's because #5 is right above where the turbo is mounted and because #5 got best exhaust flow (visually, I never tested it) which makes it flow more air??? Good luck man

Sorry to hear that man. I can tell you this much, When I put my second HG after the first one, the head was so wacked, it went without detonation. I did hear some pingings like loose change under hood but I ignore. got to make sure the head and block is true. I now shave/surface the head before I install it on any boost car. another thing is if you are at 13:1 AFR on dyno at 5000rpm, then on the road, it'll be about 13.5:1 on the road at same RPM, that's why you tune the car rich some.

Well, I think you know the problem is. You already got good spark but too much fuel. So won't you fix that first? Good FPR should stablelize the FP. My car never ran good without MSD, don't ask me why. I think because I didn't have enough timing when I took the MSD box out.

I would recommend running a turbo ECU. I ran 87 turbo ECU. But all are about same except 88-89 which were 16bit ECU's Don't forget an ignitor.

just check th eplugs after awhile, like next week. with too much gap, the tip will turn whitish like it's running lean. And remember, less timing, higher EGT and lean, higher EGT, both mix is a deadly combo. keep your ears open.

patient, my brother I was actually doing some driving in my new car. 8) I did mess with the spark plug gap on dyno to get the jagged line on the graph. Well, it didn't. With MSD box, it ran fine with stock .044" I did regapped it to .033" and same power result, it turned out to be my total timing under boost was too low which was making the dyno graph jagged. But adding timing, I gain 15-20RWHP can't remember the exact number. I did run BPR7ES (I can't remember either) NGK. Anyway, with MSD, seens that gap can be pretty wide and still fire. But sometimes, you can get misfire and a fire ball out of tail pipe. Then better gap the plugs back some. And diffenally, get a projected tip plugs.

Or could could be like me and use a stock turbo, blow it up in 3 month and go with a hydrid after. Go wth hybrid, just don't be greedy on PSI

I ran 60-1 in a .60 AR T04B housing with stageIII turbine wheel. it was nice turbo for a street. I would second Stage V if you want to make power. But I did make 253RWHP at 12psi on 60-1. Seems to moved alot of air.

are you talking about Ed from Dyno lad in Alt, GA? IF you are, I'll let you know that he's good. You are going to need a chip anyway plus on top of that, you probably have to fine tune with some sort of translator. What about something like Accel (isn't it same as DFI?) standalnoe/piggyback?

you can probably run GM MAF translator via laptop.

I can work on yours email me fishing season starts soon 8)

it's as same as swapping Z31 ECU. the wiring to the MAF is little different that's about it I think.

250HP at the crank would be a easy job out of a stock turbo with DP anf IC. You can probably get 250 at the wheel on a stock turbo but you'll be running more than moderate amount of boost to get there. I would first deside where you want your power in rpm's (say 2500-5500rpm) than decide on a size of the turbo. Sounds like you just need something little bigger than a stock turbo.

Z31 got two trigger per rev. TDC and BDC. zxt got one trigger

I agree with Sleeper. Some people are more tolorable when it comes to slow/laggy turbo which is one of the compromise on a turbo car (power/response) I personally ran a big hybrid combo and never bother me about 3200-3500rpm full boost but some like the boost to be there in lower rpm. I wouldn't be too concern about the flow map as the map chages with different turbine combination. about 60-1 is the biggest you can get on a street car without being overkill. 60 trim, 57 trim, 50 trim are all nice on the compressor side. (more effiecient too in the T04E housing.)

.48 AR is going to be too small IMO

SAFR is little bit harder to use than Apexi one. because you have to hold down one botton, scroll than hold the botton again blah, blah. I did't get to play around with it much because I didn't need it after tuning the car. EIDS doesn't work as good as they advertised.

this might help

the wiring should be the same. Only thing different beetween the two ECU is AFM goes from 5v to 0v and MAF goes from 0v to 5v I think. I can't remember what I did with my wiring but you can hit Forrest on this board because he got my car now and he can look at the wiring on the car. I'll look over the manual again and see if I can find something to help you