yo2001

lowest I would go is .028"

the WG should stay close until it get close to the peak boost. You want it to hold close as long as possible without spiking the boost. If you have a weak spring in a WG like 4.5psi spring, it can get blown open under boost. But what you are talking about sounds like a BOV.

blowing the flame out ??? gap down the plugs, does the trick for me

powerband looks too smooth to have not enough timing IMO

30 deg is too much timing. I think I was only getting around 25 deg peak under boost. I would throw more boost at it. looks like you got enough fuel

You know with that trap, 1.7 60ft will put you in low 12's. Don't ask me how I know

time for some real tires.

My 60-1/stageIII in .63 A/R housing got full boost 12-14psi at 3500rpm on 4th gear pull on the dyno. that was with al. flywheel and 3.90 gear.

18psi and .040"+ you can blow out the sparks. I have to gap mine down to .028" for anything over 23 psi

I think the cheapest way to turn up the boost is to bend the actuator rod.

What you want to maxuim timing and max boost. I think Scottie is partial right, Yes you want max boost with less timing specially on pump gas, and have enough intercooler to cool the hotter intake temp and if you have enough fuel to support the boost level. Yet if you out of injectors, IC, or turbo, then timing will help alot. My case, I was out of the stock injectors so I added timing, plus with timing too low, it runs like crap. The power band got really jaggy. Stock ECU got real safe timing setting (Z31 ECU) with more timing, it smooth the curve up. Also timing can kill engine just as fast as running high boost.

Ok, double checked today, it should bolt up also

I'm pretty sure that Tial 35mm is same as Delta gate but not the 38mm

My friend and I tested cut off on a boosted B16A Civic and acutally lost little HP with cut off open. Sounded cool thou

I heard of that problem with the revised new Profec II. (I assume that's what you got) I got a Blitz so I don't know if this helps or not but on my EBC, I can adjust the gain (how fast/slow to open the WG when target boost is reached) when I had it set low, it'll hit the target boost every gear yet slower spool (still way faster than the manual boost controller). When I turned too much gain, it'll spike all depends on RPM and gears. So if you can adjust the gain down you can fix your problem. Don't know if ProfecII got it or not. Also, I was told running 15 psi actualtor helps too. (less work on EBC more on the actual actuator) I just checked, it's called turbo response on ProfecII

You're correct, I'm a dummy

My L26 never blew up, went through couple headgaskets and a turbo though I've not blown my 4G63 yet, 20psi on pump, and will see if it'll run 25 psi on C16 Or tranny 8)

You can T'ed the BOV back to crankcase vent. hose since it goes back in front of the turbo

Stock N/A block can hadble boost. I ran 14psi daily on mine. Sold it but it's still running. It's just tuning and IC. I would talk to Ira about it. He's the man.

I think you are right. I'm thinking like the WG is external setup but on dualport internal it's opposite. here is some diagrams I found. Single port dual port external

I think if I remember right, the BC on the top port and second one on boost refence line. or unplugged. Lockjaw should know better

http://www.dejontool.web.aplus.net/dsm-misc.htm checkout the middle of page. There is a mod. BOV and leak stop kit

82-83 CAS sense TDC, that's the clicking you hear from CAS. Z31 sees TDC and TDB

Just point out a thing, the effeciency of the compressor wheels are effected by the compressor housing and its size. E wheels are not as effecient in To4B housing as it's smaller. it narrows the effeciency. GT wheels are mapped with crazy big housing like .70 To4S and things that's one of the reason it's so efficient. H-3 likes alot of boost I was told, 60-1 doesn't mind low boost/high airflow but not high boost on pump gas which I think Zcar really likes. I hear good things about 50 trim too.