yo2001

all those you listed are all Walbro pumps. zi don't think you can go wrong with Walbro 255. If you want more, you can go with pierburg.

There was a website that posted all the cams from L series but I lost it when I crashed my PC. I didn't believe it so I got both cam (P90 and P90A) and compared it next to each other. Sure enough, the P90A cam's lobes are visually advanced.

I did gap my plugs down to .033" I think. Iran the same plugs recommended for 4G63 I think.

Yes, My dyno guy likes to rescale the sheet. Also having a boost spike doesn't help the graph either. I also like to add that WB O2 on the dyno is usually about .5 richer than what really is on the street. (so 13:1 is like about 13.5:1 on the street) So always tune it fatter on the dyno I was told.

An aftermarket usually have 4 deg cut into it. But if you got a hydro. head, then the cam won't do too good because they like to float valve in high rpm. I've hear around 7k rpm. You can always degree the cam if you want it straight up.

I think mine loos like #3 but I'm running P79 though

P90A cam got 4 deg advance cut in to it from the factory. I bet the motor would make more mid range rather than HP on top. Not much difference other than that

I got one with Z31 ECU and timing corrected. Fuel pressure at 40 psi and boost on 12psi.

Looks like you don't have enough timing or some sort of ignition thing (like incorrect heat range or too much gap.) That's why the line is real jugged I think. Mine looked like that at low stock timing, I turn the timing 2-3 deg and the line smoothed out and also gained 30-40 ft/lb in the mid range and 20 RHP if I remember correctly. Don't attemp to advance timing without a good hearing

get some metric shorty wrenches.

that sounds like something is wrong there. Mine stays at .90-.93 on start up and .86 volt after warm up. I cruise at 3600rpm on the interstate. (3.90 diff ) Under WOT at .94 or so. That's measured with same Apexi Turbo timer that you got. However mine ever goes pass 1V. But I do only get about 20mpg on the interstate. But my )2 might be no good since it has seen about 10-15 gal of leaded fuel The batch will fire twice as fuel as sequential so I guess it'll use more fuel.

I think it's got something to do with timing. 525 said his timing is at 20 TDC at idle. Timing added more HP than boost sometimes. It does take more fuel to keep it from going lean like that. And rich makes the car run torquey until it gets too fat and it'll spatter some black smoke. O, has anyone check and see if the rpm signal is accurate? I know mine was off like 300rpm or so. May be the ECU is thinking less rpm than actual engine speed which cause it to run leaner than suppose to.

Well, I drove my 280Z 200miles today and I think I discover something about the Z31 ECU. First thing is cold start cycle. It turns on automatically when you first crank the car. The cold start suppose to close after car is moving via speedo sensor. Which I don't have, so it causes th ecaar to run rich for like 3.5 minutes after warmed up start up. I also found that 1 point in A/F ratio is roughly 100deg F. Just posting my discovery.

I really want you to count the blades on the compressor and the exhaust wheels. Anyway, still got JE forged pistons for RB26 GT45R would be nice.

ARP is studs. If you going to buy a new set of head bolts, I would just get ARP studs since they are so cheap now.

Sweet, not too shabby for stocky I really need to see the graph but on Tyson's graph, the torque decease as the fuel lean out. That's going to bring the shifting point down. Once you get the A/F situated, I bet I'll pull 6000rpm no problem.

You can get walbro255 for like $100 now.

The MSD is some sort of Walbro pump. May be a 190. Someone should know this. Anyway, I would keep the factory fuel line. I think they are fine for nig time HP. Just ground it good and make sure it gets good volts. more volt, more flow.

1, I would, both for Normal O2 and metric thread for wideband. Just don't dril th holes until you are ready to put the )2 sensor in. 2. I flared mine after the flange. I think this can go both way. 3. I would make the first one out of aluminized, then on dupulicates, SS. Coated with something and it'll last for awhile. 4. 4 bolt is Nissan housing and 3 bolt is Ford and others. 5. $200-$300 sounds reasonable for a SS unit. TIG'ed off course

Why don't you just turn the static fuel pressure up and tighten the AFM some? that's keep the fuel delivery linear.

Sounds like a good idea. try and see if it works

With good fuel pump I don't think you would need a FMU, specially on low boost and IC.

Making a factory fuel map isn't a good idea anyhow IMO. FMU nor larger injectors. With FMU, you get the partial throttle driving way too rich and with larger injectors on MAF system, your timing gets wacked because you are making the ECU to think it's getting less air. So thec orrect way to to Eprom it I guess. No offense.

because J-pipe is the intake on a turbo Z. And if you hook it before the turbo, under boost condition with the cold start valve open (This shouldn't happen if you are nice to your car) it'll actually suck air out of intake due to vacuum created by the turbo in the charge pipe.

Well, I've seen cars making more power with leaner mixture than rich. That's why ppl but AFC to lean the mixture to make more power. And I've seen motor go south with leaner mixture too.