Xnke

Getting the injector bores honed out this evening, and re-fitting the rail to the manifold by midnight tonight. Once the rail is fitted, the short list gets much shorter...idle control and PCV. Idle control will be very crude, but effective...a bleed valve on the vacuum log. I can get fancy later. PCV will be controlled by a catch can, the can will have full vacuum on it all the time, and the PCV valve will be between the can and the block. This should allow the pcv vapors to condense in the can while still maintaining proper evacuation of the block. The intake and the exhaust will be going to the machine shop for decking monday morning, and while they are gone the megasquirt harness will be connectorized, leaving a nice single disconnect at the firewall instead of disconnecting 16 connectors individually.

Trans parts won't be in until the 15th, best case, fuel pump shows up tomarrow, need to polish out the ports on the fuel rail to allow a not-quite-a-deathgrip on the injectors, and re-fit the fuel rail to the manifold. Then manifold goes for final decking, fitting of the idle control system, and fitting of the PCV system. Those last two items may be a PITA, but a kludge is acceptable if it works. Right now, I need to get the intake finished, the exhaust manifold to quit leaking, and the car in a tunable, reliable condition. Then the belt can go back on, once that's done.

There is more information on head porting on this site than on the rest of the internet. (well, usable, applicable, well-structured here's-the-secret-sauce information, anyway.)

And here's the real cost breakdown: $300: Motor w/manifolds $400: DIY MS1-E assembled...about half that if you can solder yourself. $0.00: STOCK optical dizzy $180: Wideband-Less if you get a used one. I paid 80$ for my LC-1 used, and it has served me well. $30: Wiring Harness-used pull-a-part wiring, not even sure if we spent 20$. $58: Injectors-Be patient on ebay...or use the stockers. You aren't looking for much power over stock. $31: Misc Sensors-both coolant temp and IAT, new, Autozone with lifetime warrenties. You'll pay the same amount for a newer junkyard engine with the wiring harness, ecu, transmission, ect.

Port the head, mild cam, machine the nissan exhaust housing for a T31 wheel, T04B -.63trim compressor, paint the car.

I just use the ashtray. Works fine for me, since I don't smoke and even if I did I wouldn't smoke in the car.

The tilt would put the shifter coming through the side of the trans tunnel, basically stabbing the driver in the knee, if they are built like I am. It is about 20 degrees off, so you do need to do the KA to L Bell swap for the manual trans. For the auto, I really don't know how much tilt the auto can handle.

There is, the KA leans over to the driver's side, and the L to the passenger side.

RedZedTurbo's 280ZXT gets 30MPG and puts down 215HP right now...Megasquirted L28ET with a T31/T04E hybrid. The Maxima K-stamp camshaft if how he's getting the killer milage.

I'm pretty sure that Peter said not to waste your money with the combination of the KEW parts and electric water pump...because they're both very expensive and apparently as long as the Nissan timing guides are still within their effective range, they work just as well...not that the KEW's loose you any power. And it's well documented around here that the electric water pump doesn't gain you anything over a proper stock water pump. So, what *I* took from that is that as long as you keep the chain where it belongs, the KEW tensioner isn't needed...it's when you CAN'T keep the chain where it belongs that the KEW parts would do their job. Alan, you have a lot of good information locked back in your head and on your desk, but I always seem to see you locking down on one ambiguous comment like a terrier on a rat toy. What's the deal, man?

Those of us not running the stock dizzy do it with a modified oil pump drive with no gear, and a brazed on extension to get out of the timing cover. You still have to drop the oil pump to install the pump drive with the gear, but as long as the pump is full and the galleys are full and you're quick about it, it works fine.

Been working out the exact gearbox ratios that I have in the new scrambled gearbox here. I have no idea what kind of frankenstein box this was to start with, but it DEFINTELY is NOT a standard 240SX gearbox that I've ever seen documented. Here's how the 71-series boxes are done: Input shaft/Countershaft ratio sets the gear spread...in this case it's 22/31, or 1.409 1st gear is 33/14, or 2.357 So, 2.357*1.409= 3.321 1st gear ratio is 3.321 You can swap input sets around with the different counter/mainshaft sets and get a wide ratio, a W I D E ratio, or a close ratio box. There are three different sets of counter/mainshaft gears for the 71C transmissions, and AFAICT there are three or possibly four different input ratios out there too...so nine or 12 possible gearboxes, with 5th gear independently changeable and 4th gear fixed at 1:1. This box will come out with the following ratios: 1st: 3.321, 2nd: 1.928, 3rd: 1.517, 4th 1.000, 5th: 0.758, Rev: 3.657 Not too bad! I wonder about the 3rd gear ratio though, because I can't find a gearbox in the listings even close. It is a possible combination, but I have no idea if it was ever a factory option, because every other gearbox with the same 1st and second ratios as this one, give a 1.308 3rd gear. In this case, if shifting at 6500, I won't fall out of the current powerband at all...and only the 1-2 shift comes close at 3750RPM, which is just above the bottom of the power band (3000RPM with the current N/A cam) I don't think I'll have the money to get the blower cam swapped in before end of May, but we'll see. It'll cost me about 150$ plus one hellacious aggravation of an afternoon. I am going to be really strapped for cash if I can even make it out to Branson at all...But I digress. I am not sure how to decide if I like the new ratios or not...I'll be running this box with a 3.545 R200 rear end, on 225/50/15 tires that are about 23" tall. Currently, the gearbox in the car has the following ratios: 1st: 3.321, 2nd: 1.902, 3rd: 1.308, 4th 1.000, 5th: 0.833, Rev: 3.657 Anyone able to help me figure out the pros and cons of this for a street driven Z?

Had to order more transmission parts tonight. (At least I'm trying to place the order with nissanpartszone...) The 3/4 shift coupler and hub were worn...and when I diassembled the hub and coupler to inspect the keys the hub is actually broken. Since they're sold as a set, a new pair will be installed when they get here.

Nah, don't need any handouts. But, anyone who wants the Aisin AZ6 trans behind their L, hit me up! I did get the crank pinned saturday, and the clutch changed out for the complete 350Z 250mm clutch and 14lb RB20DET flywheel. Definitely revs faster. I actually needed a LONGER throwout bearing collar, but I was able to get the short one I had to work using the adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder...but only just. When I put the rebuilt transmission in I'll exchange the collar for the longer 240SX collar. The crankshaft pinning went smoothly, no worries about that. I made a jig to fit how the reinforced crank washers fit, with a small machined register to fit the bore of the damper, and this also helps support the drill bit since the damper and crank snout are not flush with each other. Drill, ream, drive pin, done. Bolted everything back up, and lost my timing indicator. Just the little pointy bit, so timing got set in a slightly less accurate fashion. Still within 1-2 degrees, though. Next on the list is finishing up the transmission rebuild...my synchros should be in tomarrow afternoon, so I can get my rollerized Frontier transmission fitted up and we'll see just how strong I can make the box. I definitely don't think I'll be able to hurt it even at 10lbs out of the M62. Today, I got the new exhaust fitted up; with help from a lovely assistant. 2.5" 24" long Summit Glasspack in the driveshaft tunnel, with the Summit 2.5" "welded" muffler out back. MUCH QUIETER! The glasspack is installed "backwards" with the open louvers facing the engine. Using a manometer and a huge roots blower at an undiscloseable testing location, we flow tested the glasspack both directions and the difference in total pressure drop was only 0.5"WC at the maximum volume of flow that thing can put out. To give an idea of the flow available with this machine... You know the trick with the ping-pong ball and the hairdrier, that keeps the ball floating in the air? This blower can do the same trick...with a 2" diameter solid hard rubber ball. It's a 6" diameter, 3 lobe unit, with rotors 18" long. Single compression stage, but serious displacement. If this machine only shows a 0.5" pressure difference, I'm sure the engine won't care which direction I put the louvers. It's MUCH much quieter with the louvers forward...and NO DRONE! I can once again hold a conversation in the car at 70MPH.

Funny Bernard...I just bolted a KA bellhousing to the back of my L...but it's a manual trans bell. There is no difference in the bolt pattern or the dowel pin placement.

When I bought the A-pillars for my Z from John at Betamotorsports, they have 4 layers inside them as well. I needed the outer layer just above the door opening, which I was able to laboriously remove after drilling out 22 spot welds...on my 1972 and on the 1975 donor A-pillar, the structure is square-ish with a triangulated brace going from the front of the windshield side to the back outer of the door side, sandwiched in as part of the rain gutter.

Time just got infinitely extended, I won't have the money to make the trip now that I just smashed a ford escape into a toyota highlander in my driveway. All the money I had saved up to go is now gone.

Yes, that's the right way to do it. I had the same problem, and solved it the WRONG way. DO NOT cut the A-pillars; in some states that isn't legal and in some others it automatically gets you a salvage title. I cut the roof along the rear of the hatch, about an inch up from the hatch opening and about an inch up from the sides, instead of cutting the spot welds...now I have a roof that is slightly lopsided. Cut the factory spot welds free and carefully work the edges of the panel up from under the lead...that's how it was installed to start with and it's the best way to put it back on.

I'm bringing this back as I'm about to have a driveshaft built with the Spicer 1310 U-joints, and these are the part number for parts that I plan to use. The diff flange for an R180 or Z-car R200 is a PTI PN 3201-39...this crosses to spicer too, I think The slip yoke is a Spicer PN 2-3-13461X for the Z trans OR the 240SX transmission The driveshaft weld yokes for 2" diameter 0.083" wall tubing are Neapco N2-28-357, and you'll need 2 Then some 2"OD, 0.083" wall thickness DOM tubing and a welder and you're ready to rock and roll.

Here's some shots of your transmission completed; just waiting on the speedo drive and it'll get palletized and on a truck back to you. Here's a look at the input shaft...sticks out 16mm, just like the stock transmission:

Any of the JDM importers can get them for you, a lot of the S15 engines coming over have them attached and the buyer isn't wanting to deal with the headache of getting them installed. I am not 100% on which of the US-market versions of the Aisin AZ6 transmission that this swap is possible on, but this same gearbox comes installed in the Mazda MX-5 Miata from 1999-2007, the RX-8, and the Scion FR-S/Subaru BR-Z. I have not done any conversions on those bellhousings; however the internal components are the same, only the gear ratios change slightly. All have a closer overdrive than the S15 box; coming in between 0.833 and 0.896. Thanks Alan, I was curious about the difference in type as I believe those boxes have Porsche-type steel synchros, as opposed to the warner type brass ones installed in the FS5W71-B. Am I off the mark here? I will update my post to reflect the correct nomenclature.

All I'm waiting on is a chance to get down to Rivergate to pick up that gear...might come sooner than I thought, since it's not looking like my current employer is going to make payroll this week. Again. Other than machining and installing the speedometer gear, the transmission is complete...you can run it as-is right now, as long as you add the proper amount of gear oil. Back on topic here, I've got everything lined up to pull the engine saturday, drill and pin the crank, and install my new clutch and flywheel for break-in. I'll also be reworking my header for a better exit angle and a v-band clamp, which means running an open header for a few days, but that's not a big deal around here...ran one for a week once due to shipping delays. I have all my parts up front this time, so should be able to fab up the modified exhaust over a few weeknights. Hardest part is going to be straightening the header flange; it's got a slight gap on #2, and burned the gasket out there. The manifold gasket will tell the tale. Was hoping to have the new intake manifold ready to go on this weekend, but money is uncomfortably snug and it still needs a few things, like a fuel rail. The rail is drilled, but needs the o-ring bores polished and the mounts gently corrected with a file, that's 5-10 hours of fitting and welding to get the fuel rail finished and leak-free. I should have the intake manifold in place in the next two weeks; if all goes well, and the upgraded C-box in place before May.

Just for reference on the gear ratios in this box, I will direct you to the Nissan Competition Option boxes as to what the traditional options are...as I said, it's a close ratio box. For example, here's the Nissan Option transmission list: This is the S15 6-speed: 1st: 3.626, 2nd: 2.200, 3rd: 1.541, 4th: 1.213, 5th: 1.000, 6th 0.767 This is the S15 5-speed: 3.321, 2nd: 1.902, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.838 This is the S14 5-speed: 1st: 3.321, 2nd: 1.902, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.754 These are the FS5C71-B "Option" transmissions: 32010-N3130 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 2.906, 2nd: 1.902, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.864 32010-N3030 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 3.321, 2nd: 2.077, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.864 And the F5C71-B "Option" boxes: 32010-N3220 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 2.818, 2nd: 1.973, 3rd: 1.470, 4th: 1.292, 5th: 1.000 32010-N3221 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 2.348, 2nd: 1.601, 3rd: 1.296, 4th: 1.138, 5th: 1.000 32010-N3222 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 2.192, 2nd: 1.601, 3rd: 1.470, 4th: 1.138, 5th: 1.000 32010-N3201 Gearbox ratios: 1st: 3.321, 2nd: 2.270, 3rd: 1.601, 4th: 1.240, 5th: 1.000 OS Giken sells the following close ratio gearset for the FS5W71C transmission: 1st: 2.596, 2nd: 1.765, 3rd: 1.250, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.833 These gearbox ratios are all setup for competition use...thus I likened the gear ratios to the Nissan COMPETITION boxes. They're generally run with 3.90 or lower ratios in the rear, and the guys running 4.11 or 4.375 gears can use these VERY effectively for high-RPM, and thus high-horsepower usage. I'm not the one installing your rear end gears, so I don't get a say in that matter. In my opinion, the 6 speed would be GREAT with a 2.73 rear end...but I'm also running a supercharged engine with plenty of low-end grunt. The guy with the moderately cammed L16 in a 710 wagon might enjoy a 3.545 or 3.70 rear gear with these ratios, since it is low enough to keep the engine on the cam, but has a tall enough OD to return decent highway mileage. For those out there who are using their cars for road race or other usage where a tight ratio box is desired, or if you have a big cam with a narrower power band, then this box is a much cheaper alternative to the Nissan Option boxes. The POINT of a close-ratio box is to keep the RPM's in a narrow power band, or in the OEM's case, the car is geared such that the close ratio box keeps the car in a nice, tightly-controlled RPM range that they can minimize fuel consumption and emissions without sacrificing much in ultimate power...instead of having to work a much wider range for the optimization and giving up power over a wider band. For reference...the last time I saw a Nissan Option gearbox change hands the price paid for a used good transmission was 1400$. The new, never installed gearbox was 3200$. I'm sure the price varies wildly depending on condition and demand. *EDIT* Edited listings above to reflect proper transmission codes, thanks Alan!

Stock for stock, there is no difference in a round port or a square port head. None. Nada. Nothing. As for the rest of your questions, it's your choice. All the build threads and information you could ask for are in the archives of this website.

Wrong engine oil and improper metallurgy. The nitrided cam is now too hard for the rocker arms, and the lack of EP additives in the oil are allowing metal to metal contact. Since the rockers are softer, they are taking the most damage from the microwelding that occurs from the lack of oiling.