Xnke

The "forwards" flow direction on mine was marked to have the louver's open ends away from the engine, or the "backwards" direction on yours. Essentially, I installed it the way your describe as being the originally intended flow direction. Mine's just marked backwards from yours. Going to get started doing some fiberglassing today to get the new intake manifold under the hood, a 2* mismeasurement puts the intake plenum at valve cover height at the front of the engine...where the hood is curving downward, and the valve cover needs the bulge in the hood to clear. At least the hood was going to be vented there anyway. NBD. The plug will be built using the fiberglass over foam method, and then If it looks good...and only if it looks good...I'll pull a mold off it and think about making more.

Removing the liners without re-working the ports (involves a lot of welding of dirty, corroded aluminum deep in a hole and is not easily done) will murder your exhaust port flow. Don't do it unless you intend to go all out on a very, very expensive project. E30, E31, E88, N33, N42, O5L (turbo L20A), P90 (turbo L28), and P90A (turbo L28) heads have no liners. N47, P79, Y70, and the Maxima's N47 all have the cast-in-place exhaust liners.

I drive a half-knifed crank...the counterweights are not cut as severely as a knife edged crankshaft, but the crank came to me that way. My machinist advised me to clean up the previous guy's work and we'd balance it again. It doesn't rev much differently than the stocker with the stock flywheel, but with the 14lb unit it has a bit of a learning curve to driving again. (especially with the cam I have in the car now; I'll have that worked out shortly.)

That's not a splash guard, that's the actual bearing support. I would suspect that bearing of being bad unless you broke that during the tailshaft removal. Hope the welding works out for you, but I have my doubts that it will. Bearings don't "look new", they either are new, or they have XXX,XXX miles on them. If you wash them out with brake cleaner and spin them, they should spin smoothly with very little or no noise at all.

The T5, world class or not, makes no difference...they both are only good for 300ft-lbs input. Go over that number and damage will occur in rapid fashion. But they are a smooth shifting box when they're in good shape. That and the lack of shift stops makes it very easy to blow 3rd/4th gear by breaking a shift fork...get one of the aftermarket shifters with the shift stops and MAKE SURE you adjust them properly. It'll really make you kick yourself when you stuff it in 3rd at full boogie and then it gets stuck in 3rd or just grenades. The stock Nissan FS5W71B 5-speed is good for 250ft-lbs all day, every day...and about 300 if you are soft on it. Upgrade to the later -C and -H boxes for 350ft-lbs capability, or to the more-complicated to-make-fit -E for as much as 400ft-lbs input...The nissan boxes get stronger up till about 1998...then the FS5W71X series transmissions start getting left behind for FS5R30A's and FS6RXXX series boxes. The -71's were still in use up until about 2002, best I can tell, though.

240Z stub axles and 280ZXT companion flanges are the easiest way to do it now. Not the strongest, but the easiest. Or just make a pair of companion flange adaptors.

Only the early driveshafts (up till about 73 or so) were originally replaceable. Anything 1975+ is generally not replaceable. You need to look and see if you have replaceable joints or not, there will be a C-clip inside the yokes that holds the bearing cups in place.

You need a new tailshaft housing. The one you show above is completely uneconomical to repair.

When you farm out the head porting, you'll pay 2500-3000$ for a race-quality job from any of the quality shops, and not much less for a hot street port. If you're getting a race port job done for 300$, you're likely not getting your money's worth...

Aw, come on Rebekahsz, you hit up central AR, but not Branson? I'll have the supercharged Z there this year, it's only 9.5hrs one way...

Transmission is rebuilt, and the hood is marked up for the vent location. I'm elbows deep in a subaru EJ25D engine rebuild at the moment, so it may be a bit till the Z is back on the road.

"rebuild kit"? You mean a set of 6 intake and 6 exhaust valves, 6 each intake and exhaust valve seats, 12 valve guides, 12 resurfaced rocker arms, 12 properly dimensioned lash pads, correct springs for the cam, and a competent machine shop to do the valve job when it's all done? Nope. You'll have to buy all the parts seperately... Or just take the head to the machine shop and tell them you want the valves replaced, the guides replaced, the seats recut. Then you need to source the rest and assemble it properly.

Ohbilly, your ECU prices are a tiny little bit off...I just finished helping a buddy with his MS2 purchase and he went as cheap as he could get away with. You might find the parts needed used or on ebay for the 500$ mark To include the ECU KIT, not preassembled, 8' wiring harness pigtail, the two temperature sensors, all new connectors for the engine, and a wideband O2 sensor, the total comes to about 680$ delivered. MS1 is about 530$ delivered. The fuel components you've gotten will work fine...but you need to get the correct connectors for those injectors...they aren't a stock-type EV-1 connector, some toyota connector. The supra fuel rail won't fit, and the stock Z rail won't work with the supra injectors...you'll need an o-ring rail for those injectors. The stock, factory assembled N42 blocked-N47 headed engines have pistons with a 10CC dish in the top. F54 block N/A engines had flat-tops, and F54 block turbo motors had 10CC dished pistons. Anything is possible if it's a rebuilt engine, though... The N47 head has the steel exhaust liners in it that are not really capable of handling the heat of the turbo exhaust. There are a few members here who ran them, and more than one (I can only think of two, so not sure exactly how prevalent this problem is) found out when he pulled the manifolds that the liners were nearly burned completely out. That means metal flakes and rust being blown through the turbine housing, which some feel may damage the turbocharger. Other than that, the head should work fine, you'll have a compression ratio about 8.3:1 instead of the stock turbo compression ratio of 7.4:1. There are varied opinions on what is ideal and what is too high, or too low. Like OhBilly said, alot plenty of time for this. If you've done this exact swap before, it can be done in a weekend. I've pulled an engine, and re-installed it, in 5 hours. I've also, on a separate occasion, installed an MS-1Extra setup on an L28ET in a car that had unknown electrical problems and had the car running in 48 hours. (continuous...not recommended...) It's plausable that it could be done on a three-day weekend...but if you've not done this swap before, count on at least 85-100 man hours of work.

I just sent out another batch of rocker arms to Delta Camshaft this morning. Fixing to change out the cam in my Z from the Delta 0.455" lift 280* duration cam for an Isky grind for the blower, and even though the engine is still in the car and running, it'll get primed exactly the same as if it was on the stand...just seems like cheap insurance to me.

Or you make a copy of the shaft in drill rod, file the correct profile into the tang end to drive the pump, and use that.

Also, the mainshaft and countershaft nuts. those are still available as well, no matter what the guy at the local parts counter says. Make sure you get the proper ones!

Exhaust manifold is in the machine shop today. There will be hood clearance issues; fortunately they align precisely where I intended to chop holes in the hood and put in vents at a later date. So the vent on the driver's side will get moved up. I will have a minor adventure in fiberglassing, if it looks like crap, well, it'll look like crap. But it'll go like stink, too!

Big updates. The intake plenum doesn't clear the hood. I will have to pie-cut the runners and turn the intake down 15* between the fuel rail stanchions and the throttle bodies.

Intake manifold is nearly done; PCV system has been worked out, idle control is still iffy. Probably going to kludge it for now. Manifolds go to the machine shop in the morning.

Guess Tony thinks I was wrong about it being a close copy but not exact....Since I have both an original L28 N/A ECU and a BMW 1977-1978 E12 528i ECU here, both of which are Bosch L-jetronic licensed products, I can tell you that the pinouts and the connectors are NOT the same. Some of the sensors are different, and would require a little thinking to get them working. I didn't think it was worth the effort; since MS was readily available and much better supported by the community here.

I think Tony was implying that you could find a Bosch Computer and AFM from a BMW FROM THE ERA, i.e. an L-jetronic computer and AFM, and that it would be possible to get it functional and working if you have good working knowledge of how to make the wiring harness and obtain the proper signaling that the BMW computer needed. The Hitachi licensed copy is not an exact clone of a BMW system...but it's going to be very close. You would need to work out exactly how the BWM did timing, high-Z/low-Z injectors, injector sizing, fuel pressure, coolant temperature, ect. Also, the Delphi/GM V6 computer has been used successfully to run the L-6 by a forum member here, check into Code59.

Good one!

Yes, there is a lot you can get out of a stock engine with good engine management. Using the newfound fueling and timing control available, you can: Tune the stock engine to higher power without resorting to expensive distributor recurves or hardly repeatable potentiometer tricks Tune the newly cammed engine to higher power without the stock EFI choking on the extra air Tune the newly cammed engine with well-designed headers to higher power without the stock EFI running out of fuel map You get the idea...The stock EFI was a good system back in the day, and it still is a good system for a daily that you don't want any more out of...as long as it works right. Aftermarket, tunable EFI is a good system that allows immediate satisfaction and the ultimate fiddle-factor, as well as supporting and allowing other, more potent, modifications.

Looks like 1 and 6 are showing detonation damage, 2,3,4,5 are showing a rich condition. New set of plugs in, swap injectors on 1 and 6 to 2 and 3, drive it around a little and see if it chews up another set of (expensive, since you're using iridiums) plugs. The standard copper-core plugs work just as well as anything else I've tried in my L and the turbo L here. I've got a set of single platinums in there now that are currently there for "testing" purposes...so far I'm getting worse mileage with the platinums than with my old copper-cores. Could just be some silly tuning; which is also always possible with me...

Because the GT30 is a bigger turbo already??? If you're going to put a bigger one on, put a bigger one on. 500RPM isn't a big deal in spool time. Are you still running the stock computer? I do not know how well it will handle anything other than the stock turbo without a LOT of fiddle-time. I know it won't handle a cam very well.