TomoHawk

Always Download photos from a mobile device to a PC or flashdrive. Then you can upload via a web browser on as PC with no troubles.

That's a nice garage. It's nice & clean. I have 7 inch Daytons, per the original 1963 spec. People tell me I need wider wheels in the back, but not at $800 each.

To get to My Settings, go to the top of the page, near the right, and click on your username. How did you manage a second tail pipe without hitting the fuel tank? Which wheels did you get?

This topic is for owners of the GTO to discuss things. For help on using the website, use the search box at the top of the main page.

We have our own "Dragon" in SE Ohio between Cambridge and Marietta where I-77 and I-70 cross. OH-536 is 50 (miles!) of 55 MPH curves with little or no traffic (it's that far into the boonies) and the last time I was there, I only saw 1 empty stakebed truck and a couple motorcycles. The Columbus and Cincinnati clubs always go when the Cleveland club goes in the late summer, the motel gets full of Zeds and the "BEER" flows freely. OH-555 is popular too, but you see a lot of bikes on that route. It's just that when you get north of Columbus, the terrain gets flatter and straighter, (farming and cycling territory) but there are curves if you know where to go.

If I can get myself off the chair (off the computer and HybridZ! Ha ha ) I could get one headlamp cover off the car and bring it home where I could get busy with the duct tape and card to make a template for the first trim ring.

What an ugly car... There's no leather or even a wood inlay on the dash, or leather door panels, not one bit of carpet on the bare metal floor. How about those crappy metal footpedals, and the steering wheel is obviously not from "Momo." There's no satellite CD player stereo, no screen for "apps" or GPS, no where to mount your smartphone, and not one cupholder! And look at those awful seats! no power-seats! The shifter is WAY too long for quick shifting, like "any good racer knows." Not to mention that it doesn't sound like a "Ferrari." and all the Chrome badging from the back is missing, like the horse thing. Ha ha ha ha ha! ..... I commend you, mate Good on yer. I especially like the nice music; not that awful loud metal stuff the kids insist to put into any "sportscar" video. I'd have to drive about 100 miles to find roads like you have in the video.

I don't think anyone could tell my lamps aren't genuine, except for the lack of corrosion or pitting, but all most people look at is the engine! I see some guys looking under the back, where the gas tank is. What is so interesting under there, besides some undercoating? Maybe I'll use my big Sharpie marker on the gas tank to write FERRARI ....

Hey, Where did you guys gets your tail lamps? Mine are quality reproduction Carello lamps, and the lenses even say Brevetatto Carello on them. They are from manufacturer that makes spares of Ferrari parts, but it isn't Re-Originals.com. Even my kit supplier doesn't remember, even though it's been a year since I got my stuff.

You can tell when the wheels were made by the engraving on that nut. I forget which was earlier, but I think the cavallino was the earlier wheel.

Boranni was making what you could call Dayton's improved Rudge wheel, which was pioneered by Dayton Wheels, and Boranni obviously, had to "improve" on that design to make them uniquely Boranni. I think the most noticeable difference is that most Dayton wheels use what they call a standard well lace, and Boranni had more of a reverse lace, which gives it that 'less "cluttered" look, even though they both use a 3-cross pattern, which is very strong.

Boranni wheels are actually a Dayton design.

Would you accept an engraved design for something that is usually stamped? I suppose if you could engrave a design deeply, it might look like a stamped design.

Speaking of the Dayton wheels, the wheel nut/spinner is plain without any engraving; like a Boranni logo & removal-arrow. Has anyone managed to do any engraving (I think they were stamped before being chrome-plated) or anything else? Instead of grinding the chrome off, then engraving, and re-chroming the nut, I was thinking of other means to duplicate the effect. One idea was to have some medallions or "coins" made with the graphic (two different graphics are needed because the arrow is reversed on one side) and then glue the things to the nut. Perhaps a trophy shop could do that? I know the Dayton nut/spinner has a removal arrow on it already, so you'll at least need the Boranni logo (the open hand with rays of light.) I still need to get the graphic right, because the curved arrow with a fancy tail is not standard to most graphic design softwares. I think what I would do is to have the design put on an aluminium "coin" or disc and glue the disc to the wheel nut/spinner. It's just too much trouble to de-chrome, engrave, and re-chrome the thing. What do you think of this design? I put together a few shapes using MS PowerPoint: New wheels!

I'm still in the market for some trim rings for the GTO.

My wheels came out just fine.

That's the good thing about the Dayton wheels; you can use them on any vehicle and just change the threaded hubs. BTW- I did some comparing of my 225-65/15 tires, and they are the same size as the what you get on the 250, but some people (original GTO owners) changed to a 16-inch wheel, or a wider wheel (7 inch) or tire. Some people ("experts") are probably going to tell me I "should have used" a wider tire, but I used the spec tire, and I never listen to them anyway- they probably watch too much PC TV or look at muscle cars.

I am working on the smaller items right now. The current item is the covers for the jack holes, or "sill hole covers" (1st & 2nd photos.) They remind me of the knob on a stove control panel. There are many options you could choose. Some people have chosen to use ordinary covers used on your kitchen sink (3rd & 4th photo) but (3rd photo- my selection, but a solid top.) Maybe someone here might have a mold &mini-foundry to make up sand-cast aluminium slugs that could be finished by ourselves (First photo. You could even use a cheap plastic hole cover Please review the attached photos.

OK, you can add to the list of little bits, a set of plugs for the jack holes. When I was researching these or how to make some, I read that some people chose to use the round, chromed plugs you put in the hole where your facet used to be (a sink hole cover.) The jack hole cover:

I wouldn't put in an 8 cylinder engine unless it was a 3L one. I.E., this car isn't meant for big bores. Unfortunately, the smallest V-8 I know of is a 221 C.I.D. or 3.7L, and I don't have any old Italian "uncles that know how to cast engines in aluminium. AFAICT, there are still some things that haven't been discussed and detailed/defined. In particular, the headlamp rings, and the knock-offs.I'll be working on those this winter. I'd just like to know why I'm not getting my reply notifications!

Higuys, I'm having a hard time trying to come up with an accurate graphic for the Boranni logo with the directional arrow, so I can get the knock offs engraved. Does anyone have a graphic they can offer? I have the hand graphic and the rays with the letting done using MS PowerPoint, but there is no way to come up wi the curved arrow that has the right kind of 'fletching.' Here is what I have so far: My condolences and sympathies go to Alex in this time of difficulty. My car is really fun or a pleasure to drive, even with my finely tuned L28, and I can relate to his dilemmma. BUut... I think all the gawkers finally stopped bugging me with "is this a real one?", so the real admirer's can have a voice

Higuys, I'm just wondering, but does anyone know of a scan of an owner's manual, in any language? Or any other relevant literature, like an original advertisement, sales brochure, etc. Anything GTO related? Not anything related to the conversion. It would make a splendid display, assuming no one stole it! For starters, I'll submit this link for your enjoyment: http://www.unevoiture.com/manuals/ferrari/250

Actually, they sent the B&M adapter for free. I think they were trying to decrease their inventory.

John- The car left the body shop last July. I still need to do a few things, like mount the fog lamps, get some trim rings, and get the new wheels, but I get to use it, and most people seem to think it's a "real car" whatever that means. I sometimes get some mixed results (I hide a digital voice recorder inside at cruises & shows.) One guy said it was just a kit car with a Ferrari shift knob and steering wheel, and another called the Eclipse seats "crappy seats" even though they were like-new. One guy cursed it because "it's not supposed to have carpet, those aren't racing seats, the gauges are wrong" and then started knocking on the body, until a friend chased him away. For sure, if I wanted to make it really authentic, I'd have to strip out all the carpet, plastic, door and interior panels, paint the inside aluminium and lighten it another 500 LBs., but it's a GT car,"Lusso-style" and I built it as well as the wallet and circumstances allowed. The real car enthusiasts think it's wonderful. Enjoy ===> http://s955.photobucket.com/user/TomL_CleOH/library/Park%20Photos?sort=3&page=1 ==> http://s955.photobucket.com/user/TomL_CleOH/library/Paint%20Shop_After?sort=3&page=1

I was browsing the Boranni website to see what they have to say about wheels, and you can look up your classic car. I put in 1962 GTO, and they have specs about the original wheels. Surpringly, the GTO uses 6 inch wheels! Well,, 6.5 inch for the rear wheels... They even give you some details on the wheel, like a 42mm hub, 15 inch diameter, and the recommended tyre: 185VR15 Michelin XVS. So, for authenticity, there really is no need to buy anything over 7 inches wide. In fact, unless you add weight, wide wheels are dangerous on a light car- BTDT. fwiw.