TomoHawk

Biguys, I was wondering that if the engine is starving at WOT, would it be a good idea to richen the mix only at WOT, in addition to what the ECU is trying to do using the engines sensors? I noticed the water temp sensor bypass box early in this thread, and thought that you might install a single resistor and switch (momentary or toggle) so the mix is enrichened. Kinda like those nitrous boost buttons... Would that work on the L-Jet? Maybe you could even set up a relay thing on the TPS so it inserts the richening resistor automatically.

Higuys, You seem to like most mods, so I thought I'd ask over here instead: I would like to mount a tablet PC, like an iPad or other medium-sized tablet into my '78, so I need some ideas. I only need ideas for a mounting bracket or arm, so I can attach the holder/swivel myself. I will handle the electrical needs myself also. There are a few constraints I need to adhere to: 1- the tablet (about 4x8 inches,like a Motorola Xoom or Kindle Fire) will be mounted in landscape orientation above the center gauges high enough to read the gauges, but not so high it blocks my view of the road. 2- The mount needs to be metal and semi-pernanent so it doesn't flop around (autoX tech guys don't like anything floppy.) A 2-point mount is acceptable and probably recommended 3- The glovebox door or seat bolt isn't an acceptable place for a mounting bracket- see #1& 2 4- Suction cups are NOT permitted. 5- I can get a second vent panel if necessary for show use, or to make cuts into, so the bracket could be mounted to the dash framing. It would be nice to leave the mount in the car, except for special events, like Z meets thanks a lot, and Merry Christmas

Hello, I have been using the chat room since last fall, and now I'm having trouble getting into the chat room. I get the message "You have been kicked from the chat room." It started over the winter. When I refreshed the page to update the user list, I got the message. Now, I get it almost every time I try to enter the chat room, and refreshing doesn't usually help fix things. It happens when using FireFox, but not with IE. Everyone uses good language; there's no political bashing or any other kind of bashing... What's up with the chat room software? thanks.

Would this lock interest anybody? http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_numbers/136080-tailgate-lockE1436F

This is such an important part on the S30 car, and every car hs 4 of them, so you'd think somebody would be making them. I will be doing all four struts, so I need all 4. Heck, you can get an entire urethane bushing kit for the $150, but one 1 of the strut isolators??

They use a product called CorrosionX on aircraft used near the ocean. It's sprayed as a light oil, and also works on your electronics to protect it. You're better off just keeping it clean. Water doesn't cause the rust, it's the minerals and organics in the water that help cause the oxidation. You could just rinse it off after driving in the rain or dirty/salty water. About the zinc blocks- the zinc blocks by themselves don't do anything but make the ship heavier. The entire ship gets a slight electronic charge, and it causes the zinc blocks as sacrificial anodes.

I go to the DOY place where they sell bricks, blocks, cement, etc. They have a scale and I just run in to read the number off the readout.

One of mine was actually making clunks because the U-joint was destroyed to little bits. I had a spare set to take to a truck/semi place that does U-joints/driveshafts, and they had it ready the same day. It was not expensive, compared to buying one new shaft. Installing the new ones in was not hard either.

HAHAHA! (condom) I think too many people turn away from the S30 because they don't want to put in what it takes to have a really classic car, and instead go for something cheap, IMO, and buy a 300ZX or 350Z, because you can fix it by plugging in your laptop computer. And "mods" are done by unbolting the old part, and bolting on a newer, prettier part. A really classic car has a little dirt, a little rust, some well-worn ports, and gets a lot of personal attention.

Yeah, do you even need it? Mine is a '78. I can hear mine pinging on warm days, and when I gas up, I have to open the gas cap slowly to let the pressure out. It gets me to wonder if I even need it, because then there wouldn't be such a large pressure build-up.

Sorry to interject after this long, but why does everybody get the title phrase wrong? Mr. Shakespeare wrote, " To be or not? To BE, that is the question" and not what you usually hear. Sorry guys- it needed correcting. The new topic would be called 'To Z or not? To Z...'

There was a guy on zcar.com that has done a few 4N71B swaps on the S30 engines, but the writeup is several years old, and parts are missing. now.

Thanks for the scans. Unfortunately, there is an earlier magazine article, from 1983, IIRC. I was in college, and that's the aerticle that got me interested, and I bought the mag. It has about 30 pictures of the build process, and a chart with some comparisons to a real 250 GTO. It has since been pilfered after several moves. thxZ

Does anyone have the old KitCar magazine article (from 1983?) that has a writeup of the conversion process? It also compares the kit to a real car. I'd like to get the magazine itself, or some photocopied pages. Any help? The correct issue would be a good start. thxZ

I would like to look over an origininal copy of the McBurnie documentation myself. thxZ

Since the GTO is a replica kit, the door handles and the trunk latch are essential. Some might want to leave them off, but serious people will want the correct look, which requires the honda pushbutton mechanisms. That is unless an alternative but equivalent lock is found. The same goes for the electronic alarm system with the door opener solenoids. thxZ

Can you collect some measurements on that? Probably just the diameter is enough. It doesn't look like like it'll need much depth. A quick looksee on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GAS-DOOR-FUEL-CAP-COUPDODGE-VIPER-2003-2010-ACR-XVIPERS_W0QQitemZ370260494675QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56353ec953 At $700 (New) you might reconsider one from a recycler, or a real Ferrari or a Vintage Cobra. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Shelby-Cobra-Eleanor-LeMans-Style-Gas-Cap-Polished_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef9405cb5QQitemZ270469717173QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gas-Cap-LeMans-Roller-Latch-MG-Ferrari-GT40-Porsche_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b7064132QQitemZ110444822834QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The second one looks interesting. It's fairly flush-mounting.

What door buttons???

Higuys Do you *have* to use the Civic pushbutton lock? I know you can get something called a "Cam Lock" with a long cylinder (in quantity!) and matched sets (see photo.) If the cylinder is long enough it could work. I dunno how it would look tho, because the part you push on would be a little larger, and the threads on the cylinder would need to be machined off. Maybe you could use one with a smaller key so the head is smaller? FWIW thxZ

I think you mean a TomaHawk Z

What would you think the basic GTO conversion (body & dash) would cost lately?

OK, so I can get a 1st gen. Maxima flexplate & belhousing now, and then get the matching e4N71B trans when ready for the upgrade? The problem is finding the parts. the flexplate and bellhousing might be cheap, but the best quote for an '83 Maxima 4N71B is about $400 ?? There was a detailed thread on this swap here before, but it seems to be gone now. thxZ

Do you still need a special flexplate for the L28 engine for the 4N71B? Is that electric or hydraulic lockup? I was told you need the flexplate from an '83 Maxima, plus all the transmission wiring from the same car. thxZ

thxZ for the information so far. That's why I'm asking about the shifters & the Jatco transmission, to get an idea of what aftermarket shifter will work. Eventually, I'll assume my shifter will wear out, and by then there will be (how many?) oe units out there... So in the meantime, I can get an aftermarket and keep it with my stock of spares. I doubt I'll get something like a B&M Quickshifter, but there ought to be something that will work and look period-correct. The M30 uses the 3N71B? Hmmm..... (sourece of spares and new units!) thxZ