TomoHawk

Not all use cables. It's mostly the newer ones. The shifters for older and selected transmisions still have rods.

Anybody know what kinf of valve body is in the Jatco 3n71B? I mean is it forward or reverse? thxZ

On a GTO, the usual setup is fo the button to press on a lever to push down the door latch thing to open the door. It looks like the hook in the picture will open up when you press the button? The lock looks nice, but we need more information on it. below is a Civic pushbutton hatch lock to explain my point. thxZ

I'm trying to collect all the printed materials pertaining to the 250 GTO kit buildup, be it the original Alpha1 or Rhino/Stable. Especially the build or test-drive articles from KitCar Magazine. There was one article from KitCar (about 1983?) with a writeup/photos of the build, and a comparison to a real GTO that I'm particularly interested in getting the magazine issue itself. If you have magazine articles, would you please make copies to share with us? Real magazines would be even better, and I'd buy those. ThankZ in advance. TomoHawk Tom.

Yeah, maybe it's their way of hinting to you that you need to hold on to it a little longer and do a few more special things to it

Where did you collect it all? I still need a set, or at least two for the doors. thxZ

That dirak company has a number of pushbutton locks. some are even lockable. With a finger pull. But does it have a pushrod long enough for out use? n The ones I saw so far have a hook instead of a pushrod. (think aluminum storm door) http://www.dirak.com/index.php?sid=b1c68053917eba2a380bd0be1a04ad96&view=showprod&pid=796 Quarter-turn pushbutton ( just what we need!): http://www.dirak.com/index.php?sid=b1c68053917eba2a380bd0be1a04ad96&view=showprod&pid=418 Some of the quarter-turn locks don't have a key, but something like a hex-bolt head. It looks like you need a special tool to turn the lock- bad idea? A real lock would be the best. Yeah, I'm still at it! thxZ

One f the first things I did on my 280Z was to change the hatch lock, since the oem one wasn't working. I used one from an MGA. I'll get a photo tomorrow. thxZ

Well... I have the book that details all history of the the 49 cars, so I'm somewhat of a Tifosi myself, but that was a while ago since I read it. I have the Pininfarina script on my Z right now, so I'd undoubtably change it to the right one (if any) after I do the bodywork. Good point tho...

I don't suppose they would have something like the door pulls... I did get a PininFarina script ( from eBay) to put on my dash tho. thxZ

the Alpha kits were the most complete, but those aren't made any more. You got the complete body kit, and all the (RIGHT) lights & trim things you need to finish the car, Everything but the glue, bondo, primer & paint.

If that company has the finger pulls, do you think they can also provide the lock cylinders we would need too? Since the locks were originally European in manufacture, maybe we are even looking at parts from the wrong continent? The only thing left would be to contract with some company to produce what we would need ( pulls & lock mechanisms.) fwiw

I see they're offering the MGA trunk pull for the door latch. Is there any more information on it, like how to use it as a door latch? thxZ

Chelle, I figured you'd have a mobile, wireless device to do your Internet serfing...

What's a Motorsport? Unless you ahave the fenders off and youy are doing some moderate restoraion or upgrades, you probably don't need anything more than a quick coat of a sealer to keep the body tub from rusting because water & dirt is draining behind there.

This isn't something new, but something the guys at ClassicZCar have been doing. You need to keep the diameters as large as possible for proper drainage. Snaking the drain tube, if neccessary, is not a bad trade-off to restoring the inner tub & fender after it rusts apart- again. True, as long as you keep the drain tube pointing aft for negative pressure. You don't have to hammer it; it was my first thought. It could also be cut & welded to look smoother. You do need to be careful not to create a weakness in the body by altering that corner. That's what the PO said it was. I got my car in 2001. Maybe I could pick up some for touchups, but the painter had a hell of a time matching the paint to my car last summer. my color: thxZ

I actually got my buzzer (more like a screamer) installed in my car last August. I also put in a new pair of door switches. The buzzer goes from the door switch wire (blk) to a wire (GW) that comes off the headlamp switch that powers the marker/gauge lights. The only problem is that when you turn on the dome light, the buzzer goes off.

Dragonfly, You can see that rubber elbow for the drains up under the dash on each side. Some people have been upgrading the cowl drains by gluing in a 45-degree PVC elbow, then a length of big flexible tubing behind the fender to the underside of the car. I thought that you could just go straight from the drain hole through the floor, but I wonder if pressure from below would blow air up through the cowl, which would be a problem ( moisture into the heater & interior.) Anyway... do you think you could hammer the corner of the tub below the cowl drain to help air flow directly from the wheel well to the vent? It would make the fender vents on my GTO body functional. I love your paint colour! Mine is the same colour, but the PO was cheap, and the paint wasn't so shiny. What colour or number is it? thxZ

Here come more trouble... Higuys! (And Larry) I have that MG lock on the hatch of my 280Z, and other than grinding the old hole to match the new lock, it was easy to install. I think I just had to turn the arm 90 degrees, and bolt it on securely. When you think of choosing a door pull, you need to remember to get something that has a threaded body that extends a LONG way into the door. You have the thickness of the Z door, the GTO door skin, and a little air between, and the thickness of the lock bracket inside. I think that if you machined a shoulder of some kind the diameter of the threaded part ( on the MG lock) you could gain an extra 4-8 mm of length. I think I have one lock that I hacked up that way somewhere... When I bought my MG lock, I noticed that you can get a whole set (of three for the outside locks) of MG lock barrels keyed alike, but you probably could have a good locksmith do it for you ($$$) Do you think you could machine a Datsun "key shape" to fit the MG lock? You'd only need the tip portion. Either that, or you use a couple different keys ( different in shape) for the car- one for the door and one for the engine. I was thinking of alternatives for the Honda lock... Like don't some appliances have door pulls like that? Maybe refrigerators or something? Just a crazy thought. thxZ & Merry Christmas!

I have tried the house foam in r/c boats, and I have seen others use it too. The conclusion was that it wasn't a good idea because it does absorb water, and doesn't dry out easily at all. thxZ

Why 4 locks, extras? thxZ

Hey, If the SpikeTV BullRun was in May, when are they going to put it on TV?? They've had 5 months for editing already... thxZ

I figured out after a while that the GTO in BulRun is a REAL GTO! Enzo must be turning over in his grave.. thxZ Chelle for helping me out!

Higuys! I've been trying to find out what month the original Alpha1 buildup was in KitCar mag, and I found out that there is a 250 replica in BullRun?? Could that be Chelle's car? I would definitely watch that Bullrun too if it was. I saw the first BullRun anyway. BTW- what month was the original Alpha1 build article in? I think it was 1983? thxZ

Higuys, I had a copy of KitCar when they did the Alpha 1 buildup. I think it was back in 1983? Does anybody know the exact date or issue? I can't find my original magazine, and I'd like to see if I can get a new copy (backissue) from somewhere. I met a really cool guy that restores Rolls Royce's, and he want to help with my "McBurnie kit." It would be nice to show him some photos of the build from the original magazine build, or maybe a recent build. thxZ