MazterDizazter

Oh, ok. That makes more sense.

Edit: and boost gauge, lol. Knew I was missing one. My Treadstone FMIC came in a couple days ago. I'm hopefully gonna be pulling the L26 from the car and cleaning the engine bay this week. I'll take some more pics!

Armand, last I checked, Grant is a 5 bolt whereas MOMO is a 6 bolt. You could probably buy an adapter; they make them for the Nardi/Personal wheels to fit the MOMO hub.

Actually, it's running out quickly. (I guess it's a good thing I'm single right now!) I need my tax returns to come in ASAP. I'm also selling parts from my defunct RX-7 project to buy parts for the Z. I just dropped $725 on a full host of Autometer Phantom gauges, OUCH! Got the 200mph speedo, 10k rpm tach, and fuel level, oil pressure, water temp, and voltage gauges. They had better be perfect at that price.

Charles Ghosn: Build This Car!

I'm a little confused on how to adjust ignition timing. Say I am running a fully-programmable EMS with a distributorless ignition system: do I need an adjustable cam gear to alter timing or can it be done all electronically?

Decided to do it right (well, hopefully) and tear down and clean the engine internals, and spec out everything. It's getting there. Not much else is new; I'm still waiting on the transmission and I ordered a large core Treadstone intercooler. Yeah, I um, wedged a socket extension in there to try and get the crank pulley bolt free. Didn't know I could just use an impact gun.... Oh well, I wanted to replace the timing set anyways...

Well, I've narrowed it down to a few: http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u157/MazterDizazter/steeringwheels/ Anyone want to cast their vote?

that's what alarms and locking hubs are for. I'm only gonna be getting a MOMO wheel and pedals, the seats will either be Corbeau or Recaro (even better for getting my car stolen, right?)

Nevermind, I'm retarded. Considering all the effort it took to push down with a breaker bar on the bolt, I never thought the impact gun woulda taken it off... All set guys, thanks!

OK, so I need to remove the crank pulley but the damn bolt won't come free. I've got a 27mm socket and breaker bar, and we tried lodging something in the timing gear to keep it from moving, but it still won't budge. Any ideas? The engine is stripped down on a stand so I can't try using the starter to crank it or anything like that. WTF do I do? We're trying to tear down this motor quickly, as bad of an idea as that may be...

Hey guys, I'm having a tough time deciding which MOMO/Nardi wheel I want to get for my 240Z. I'd like to see pics of your wheels to hopefully make my choice easier. Any year Z car will do; thanks!

Took a few pics; felt like I haven't in a while. Here's a mockup of the engine so far: And the T3/T4 Turbo: The AZC Aluminum oil pan (and if you squint, the AZC radiator underneath):

Another awesome update! I'm going to be picking up a Z32 transmission with bellhousing adapter, custom driveshaft, Fidanza shifter, and Nismo black satin shift knob for cheeeap! I should hopefully be getting that next week, and that'll totally jumpstart my build! I have finals this week, and after that I can get started on my engine, and ordering the Painless harness and Megasquirt II and other odds and ends

Nice, thanks. I was bidding on the S30 and S130 shop manuals on eBay but someone beat me to the punch

Just a few: what thread pitch/length/size are the flywheel bolts? My engine didn't come with any. Also need the torque specs on the following items (if any): flywheel clutch/pressure plate valve cover head bolts oil pump oil pan water pump intake/exhaust manifold transmission-to-engine bolts

I was quoted $1500-$2k to have one fabricated, equal length mild steel. I've read elsewhere on the forums that it costs up to $2500. How on earth are they going to make these for under $200 and not have them be pieces of crap? The steel stock alone should cost $50 if I had to guess... If they can come up with a quality product at less than $1500, I'll buy it, but I want quality first and I am willing to pay for it. If they come up with a crappy manifold for $200, then I'm gonna go to my fabricator and drop the $$ to get it right.

Really glad someone posted this. I am about to re-wire my whole car and I wasn't sure whether or not to go with a Painless harness or something else. I'll check out that EZ Wiring kit, too. How do they work with sensors and things like that? Like, say if I'm going to add a MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, and distributorless ignition (EDIS most likely)? I'm pretty scared to death about the whole wiring thing; electronics are my weak point.

Just a small update: I ordered the AZC aluminum radiator, high-cap oil pan, 240SX TB adapter, new turbo oil pump, Pallnet fuel rail, and engine gasket kit. Another two weeks left on the transmission.

Yes, that's what I wanted to avoid, selling parts to build over and over again. But I want to build it gradually since I will learn how it all works, and let's face it I've never even driven a 300whp car, let alone a 500whp car.

bump

Hey guys, I'm going to be swapping an L28ET into my 240Z. I have a HP goal of 500+whp, very gradually of course. The stock turbo that came with the engine needs to be rebuilt. I also have a T3/T4 .60 trim sitting around, but it too needs to be rebuilt. Some of the stock injectors are broken, so they need to be replaced; I'd probably just buy a new set. So my question is: should I rebuild or buy a serviceable stock turbo and injectors, run that and save for a better turbo, or rebuild/buy a serviceable T3/T4 and buy larger (550cc?) injectors, and possibly need to install an MLS head gasket just for safety's sake? I will be running Megasquirt either way. I will have many supporting mods such as an FMIC, BOV, electronic boost controller, baffled oil pan, aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, fuel cell and high-volume fuel pump w/ pressure regulator, 3" intake and exhaust. Thanks for any help!

OK, so I've been convinced to get a 20gal. fuel cell. There goes another $500 and weekend into the project... and I'll be shaving the fuel filler door (and while I'm at it the antenna) as a result. Which means the whole car's getting repainted, woohoo! I am definitely bitten by the "while I'm at it" bug.

WTF? I thought they cost like a grand.... should they have some sort of approval on them?

Can't afford it and don't wanna cut up the chassis, either. This is going to be a hopped-up street car, not a track car anyways.