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HybridZ

Samson

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    Fresno

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  1. Details on A/C system when you get a chance!
  2. What type of welding process did you use for all the fab work?
  3. Curious as to how you have your harness mounted? Is this feasible/safe for street use? I will get a harness eventually and just would like some input.
  4. Amazing build! Sounds badass. Looking back at your previous post it shows you have the coolant passage on the head blocked off. What was the thread size on that? Thanks!
  5. 15x10.5 -37 and -32 225/50 up front and 265/50 in the rears. I'm just on eibachs haha. Used 280z front strut isolators in the rear and cut a coil on fronts and rears, IMO ride quality hasn't changed prior to cutting and I like the stance.
  6. Yup, still broken down by systems, A1-A9 for automotive i believe. Went through the Auto Program same as with the OP, passed my A6 in electrical just need to gain my work experience to get the actual cert. IMO one ASE is better than no ASE compared to the actual students in the program who didnt even try to attempt it. Harder than i anticipated given i had no real world experience to help with the questions they had. OP: Goodluck on your tests! Which ones are you planning on taking?
  7. Loving those wheels! I am in the market for a new set... hmm!
  8. Another Update: Installed the new EFI harness, ECU and dropping resistors all from a 76 280z. Replaced the injector connectors that were on the new harness since they were all old and dying. I'm not sure if i fixed the Rich mixture part yet given i don't have no Gas Analyzer to look at the numbers but i do have pictures of the plugs, anybody here pretty good with examining them? Much Appreciated. Here are 2 plugs side by side. Left one is the new plug how it looks right now. Also one point these plugs were installed on the car before the whole EFI electrical part was replaced, i'm not sure if that has an affect of the left over carbon fouled burn the car used to produce? Just a better picture of the new plug's burn.
  9. Hey, from some pics it shows you don't have a hatch lock? How do you keep it locked? Or you don't? Reason is because my hatch lock is shaved and just trying to find a different alternative to keep it secure from theft. Very nice build btw!!
  10. Hey, from some pics it shows you don't have a hatch lock? How do you keep it locked? Or you don't? Reason is because my hatch lock is shaved and just trying to find a different alternative to keep it secure from theft. Very nice build btw!!
  11. So i've been doing a lot lately on the car but totally forgot about updating this thread, i've been replying on another forum instead but i'll try and post in what i left off here from the other forum. I hope this will be helpful and informative for other members in the future if they have some similar problem as I did. It's going to be a long post! Nov, 20ish 2012 ---- Okay, so the car has been sitting for about a month since last i've started it. Today, i've replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, replaced majority of vacuum hoses, aswell as the radiator hoses, replaced the AAR connector, CSV connector, and WTS connector and i've added a maxi fused block as a replacement for the fusible links that were SUPPOSED to be there but the previous owner for whatever reason decided splice all (4) white red stripe wires to the (4) white power wires having it not fused i didn't like this so i added the fuse block. Anyways onto the problem now. The car doesn't start no more this has happened before i don't hear the fuel pump kicking on the car will attempt to turn over but no sound of fuel going in, but at one point there pump kicked on for a couple of seconds but it went off. What can it be now? Thanks Nov, 24? 2012 ---- Okay, so i got the fuel pump to kick on, to find out the power wires from the fuel pump were snipped and the Previous owner just got about a 16-18 gauge wire and ran it from the pump all the way to the front of the car to the inside fuse box and had it wrapped around the AC fuse i believe it's the air conditioner or fuel gauge. Fiddled with that and changed that fuse and wah-lah the pump kicked on. Now, the car still doesn't want to turn over. I know it should be getting spark because the plugs are new aswell as the wires.. Dec. 8, 2012 ---- Sorry for the long awaited response but i finally had some time to work on the car within the week, and i got the car to fire up! EDIT: AFM was the culprit and a huge leak between throttle body and intake manifold (Fixed) Now there's very very small leak. Re did the fuel pump wiring, traced the wiring back from the fuel injection relay back under the passenger seat where the wires were snipped, routed the fuel pump wires back into the car and wired the wires accordingly. Removed the "hot wired" fuel pump wire and turned the key over and she fired up! The voltmeter in car kept fluctuating, got my DVOM and measured the alternators output and got a wopping 11.35 Volts! that is not good. Bad alternator so i had to get that swapped out changed the belt aswell because that was in horrible condition. Now reads at around 14.35 Volts. Drained coolant, replaced thermostat and gasket went to retighten bolts and the damn things stripped, but i didn't notice it at that point in time i had my buddy's 78 AFM that he let me borrow on, start the car seemed to idle at around 1300 then slowly started dropping to around 8-900 or so.. but after car would reach operating temp coolant would shoot out the thermostat cover, so i had to helicoil the threads now they're good as new. I definitely think the AFM that came with this car was no good if it was able to run "okay" with my buddies on. Didn't get to use my buddy's AFM this time because i had done returned it, but a AFM i bought off a member on another forum came in and i had that installed. Put a fuel pressure gauge on, vacuum gauge, started her up once more. Idle's at around 1500-1700 and stays like that through the whole way pretty much even after operating temp is reached. Fuel pressure gauge shows around 31-34 psi it fluctuates tho, but when i rev it shoots up to around 36 psi. Vacuum gauge shows a steady 20-21in HG. I did notice there is a very VERY small leak between the throttle body and intake manifold it's like comparable to the diameter of a toothpick. When i turn the vehicle off the fuel pressure would slowly decline to 0. Whats the deal with that? Also, when i would snap the throttle a puff of black smoke would shoot out so i'm guessing it's still running rich? Sorry about the long story! Here is a video i recorded on this day when it was having the fast idle issue, just to note the small leak at the throttle body and intake manifold was still here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuFZM9rmwBU Dec. 9, 2012 ---- Okay guys, was able to mess with the z for about a half an hour today and i think i found the problem to the fast idle it was having. The throttle is sticking! Just to note this is not the stock throttle body, the PO had installed the upgraded 60mm throttle body MSA offers, there is a spacer that's suppose to go in between the throttle body and intake manifold but i had that removed because that was blocking off the AAR hose that goes into the throttle body so i don't see how that was suppose to work? Unless it was designed like that? .. I noticed when i would hit the throttle the Pivot ball looking thing on the throttle linkage it would not go back "all the way up" There is some play from the throttle body and the throttle linkage. If i would hit the throttle it would go normal but after i let go it would stick and stay at around 1400 RPM, If i fiddled with the Pivot ball thing moving it up very slightly and the idle would drop back down to 900-1000. The idle adjustment screw seems to have fixed it self or something because it seems like it still has some turns that'd drop the idle slightly, but if i started turning it in more i would hear weird noises, i may need a valve adjustment? Also filled in that small leak between throttle body and intake manifold with some RTV ain't the best looking but it seemed like it worked. I have some pictures attached of the linkage... How would i go about fixing this? Or is there adjustments to be made.. Thanks all! Dec. 10, 2012 ---- Just bought a valve cover gasket, feeler gauge set, timing light (need to figure out how to use this properly) and some sea foam. Hope to do a valve adjustment and check the timing on this car I'm new to all this ignition adjustments. Even more afraid to pull the cover off and mess with the valves. Question, when i'm adjusting the first exhaust valve (i know you're suppose to put it on TDC which allows the cam lobe to point up? Correct? So pretty much every single valve (Exhaust & Intake) i want the cam lobe pointing up to make the adjustment from #1 all the way to #6 cylinder?
  12. Okay, so I've finally had the time to work on the Z again i did the measurement pin 8 & 6 at the afm an it was about 183-187ohms around there so that's within specs right? As for 8 & 9 it was around 105-120 ohms.. hard to get a reading on those stupid pins..
  13. Curious, how much did u end up spending on this?
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