gramercyjam

do a google groups search on the patent numbers. this has been discussed ad-nauseum by pseudo scientific types for more than 10 years. It seems to me we would all be filling our gas tanks with a garden hose by now if it wasn't a hoax.

Sounds like the old swaparoo. It starts like this - Somebody has got two cars - one with a title that is scrap and food for the crusher, another car that is pretty good but has no title. What to do what do .......

My vote is in the combo switch. '83 had a seperate contact for R & L headlights so maybe it is the same deal.

Not those. how about a Sonnet?

Recent thread on classiczcars.com about the reaction disk. I just cut up a booster and it looks like a little nickle sized rubber disk about 1/8" thick. My MC is bolted directly to the firewall, no booster anymore ... Take the booster off and shake it around until the disk falls back into place ....

A couple things to check - I didn't see them mentioned so I will - Bleeders on MC good an tight? I've had problems with some rebuilds where the bleeders couldn't be torqued down enough to seal and I couldn't get a good bleed. Proportioning valve, all the way out (counter clockwise)? I don't know if you wilwood is like mine, but with mine when the adjuster is all the way in, the pedal feels soft and goes down a lot further than when it is all the way out.

You would think so, but I don't think that is the way ABS works on most grocery getters. I think at best, the front and rears may work independently on high end systems. Internet searches would get you the answers.

And another one is when I'm in the 'Vette and I'm passing a line of cars and I'm doing about 80 in a 65, and some gigantic jacked up 4X4 SUV with huge brush bars and a winch pulls up on my ass like 1 foot away and starts flashing his lights. Like he owns the road I am supposed to make space in the slow lane and move over and let him by cause I am skeered of his 10K lb macho machine.

I can always go around. My big issue is when you leave the left lane open and people come up along side of you and stay there until you are blocked in. Thats what makes me completely lose it. Oh yea. And the other one is the car you just passed passes you, gets in front of you and slowly slowly slows down. You pass them again, and they do it again, and again, and again.

Click here http://www.80s.com/cgi-bin/valley.cgi?url=http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php to find out what this board might be like if it was run by california girls.

My favorite "tool box" Not pretty but it sure is practical. Try loading those big rolling chests into the back of your pickup truck without a fork lift.

Check fuel filter - gas tank rot.

Funny (or maybe not)! Once I had just finished hot rodding a car and put her in reverse and peeled out a little on a driveway paved with small pebbles. One of those little pebbles shot through the oil pan. What a pain to fix! In my case, I took the pan off and brazed up the hole.

Official Racing Mud

Good thinking! Thats what I'm going to do.

I know it ran out of water. But it ran out quick because I just checked it and topped it off the day before. I don't know where it went though. No visible coolant leaks anywhere. I checked the dipstick and it looked like good oil and not mixed. There isn't a drop of water in the radiator so nothing to see there. Only things I can think of are head gasket or possibly some kind of heater core leak?

On the way to work - Noticed water temp gauge took a long time to start registering. Then a few miles later is jumps up to HOT and starts pinging a lot. Then the motor loses power and I'm on the side of the road with the hood up and looking at lots of smoke (not steam) coming off the engine. Radiator is cold. A peek inside the radiator - no steam, no water but a little smoke comes out of there too. Head gasket problems? I never saw the thing leak so much as a drop of water but I needed to top off the radiator yesterday. The motor isn't seized so maybe it is fixable.

$61.89 2 day air - in stock - from Summit. Special order from Jegs.

ARP kit is 203-2801 (8 Toyota bolts)

I just found 12X1.25X20mm on another board. this sounds about right.

On the L24, Can anybody tell me what size they are? I need to get some quick. Mine are not coming off as I rounded them all off last night with an impact driver and I need to get my flywheel resurfaced, like tomorrow. I use a 7.25 Tilton button flywheel so the stock bolt heads need to be cut down to .25 inch tall to clear the clutch disk. Now I'm going to need to weld bolts onto the heads to get them out. I was thinking that some ARP 12 point bolts would work but I need to tell them what size.

Yup. Put it under glass on a rotating pedestal or behind some gold ropes. It's just too nice to crash.

Dunno. It's probably worth a shot. I looked at the heat and feed rates for the Lincoln welder (what I have) and I know might just be burning holes with .024 wire at those rates unless you have a big old overlap seam to weld on.

mmmmmmmmm. 10 lbs. Must have carbon fiber hood. Carbon fiber hood essential to my being.

Actually, I didn't know. I had to lookup it up just now. Thanks for furthering my indoctrination into the Southern culture. I actually don't come from the South though. I was born in the Philippines, raised in upstate NY. Shucks, when I got down here, I didn't even know you were supposed to take the corn husk off to eat a Tamale. Maybe I should turn my car into a rally car? I have the closing your eyes when your about to roll over part down pat.