gramercyjam

excellent!

I'm just joking with you. But if you haven't ever tried it, you never know, you might like it more than you think.

Sell your car, don't buy another one. Move to downtown Chicago or New York where owning a car is an unecessary burden. Live in a hotel. Walk, take the cab, the train or the bus wherever you need to go.

No problem. It's plugged into a GFI.

I called up carbotech this AM and ordered two sets. I wasn't really prepared to have to beg them to sell them to me! I told them they were for a stock braked setup and I would probably be doing 125 laps over the weekend in 20 minute sessions. He basically told me the 240Z brakes were entirely inadequate and I should just go buy some hawk blues as when my performance wasn't up to what , I would blame his pads instead of the cars inadequate braking system and I would post it all over the Internet. I promised not to blame his pads and to call him and let him know how they worked out.

I saw the C&D review of the Nissan, Dodge, Ford and Chevy on TV last week. They really liked driving the Nissan as it was the best performer. They rated Nissan #1, Chevy last.

FWIW, I did something the other day that clearly illustrated cyclic stress and related fatigue failure better than any textbook ever did for me. Not being able to find one in any local stores, I welded up a 4" wide chisel out of 1/4" mild steel for my impact hammer to scrape old glued on wood parque tile from an oak floor. In my mind, not a particuarly demanding job for the chisel. After only a few minutes use, the chisel shattered into glass like shards and chunks. I was utterly suprised so I made several of these chisels to better understand what the mode of failure was and how it progressed. The failure was not gradual. It appeared to be fine, without cracks observeable to the naked eye right up to the point of catastropic failure. I think you are up against a similar situation when you are making control arms. It would seem that heat treatment to relieve residual stresses in the welded up parts would be necessary to help prevent this mode of failure. My .02

Comeandzpa, I don't know where to begin. Forget it. Nevermind.

Thanks for the advice guys! I'm heading down to the Rio Grand Valley for the 2 day RGVPCA (http://www.RGVPCA.org) time trials at Cameron County airport on May 22/23. I have heard these things are a blast but all the autoxer's who go come back with toasted brakes and tires. I think I'll try the carbotech (and see if I can find some motul) Hopefully the rotors survive the weekend at the track. I have a set of Raybestos on there now that I put on when I got the car ten years ago. They have really lasted. I roughen up the rotors a little with a wire wheel and get more than enough bite for autox with them. I've got a wilwood prop. valve too that I can stick on, but I'll need to see if I can find the time. The car is stripped to bare metal (a BAD case of the while I'm at its) and I don't even want to think about how much work it will be to get it off the jack stands in the next 4 weeks. You know when you start thinking about that you just think theres too much to do to make it happen in time. I'm just hitting the garage every night for as long as I can.

Help out a road racing newbie. I'm taking the Z of Doom out to a PCA track weekend in May. I've never had the car at a high speed event before but it is a 2.25 mile track and I have stock brakes. Should I go for the Carbotech or similar road race pads and shoes and risk melting down my stock rotors or just bring an extra set of stock pads and shoes and change them when they wear down? I've only autocrossed the car and the stock brakes have always been good enough for that and I don't have the time to do much upgrading before the event as I've got too many other things to do before I can even take it off the jackstands!

I use a $20 universal 7mm V8 set of copper core wires. Cut and crimp. No problems.

Less overspray. Might be worth getting the HVLP then. I'm going to shoot the whole thing inside (now) and out (later) in that Pearl Tangelo (orange). Too many blue, white, red, silver, yellow, and black cars around. I don't want to look like a copycat.

You might need the narrower ones. I'm 6' and 225 lbs. I also need to disconnect the steering wheel to get in/out because of those side wings.

Too bad you ruled out the Kirkey. I use the Kirkey economy 17.5 inch wide, 20 deg. layback. Meet all my support needs plus they are cheap, lghtweight, and easy to install.

Looks like the mother lode for paint and supplies. Paint chips can viewed on line too. Anybody ever deal with them? How about house of color paint? My chassis is sandblasted to grey metal; welding and rust repair/reinforcements are nearly complete so it needs some paint quick. I was thinking of getting some 2 part epoxy to prime the chassis and a tangelo pearl basecoat/clearcoat. Not doing the exterior at this time. How about guns? I have my old Devilbiss standard suction gun. Do I need to move on to an HVLP to get decent results? Thanks for any opinions.

I saw this deal on Discovery about a building in Asia that was so large that if it got built it would suck up the entire world supply of steel and concrete for years. The sucking sound just gets louder and louder.

I suppose it's too late to buy stock in the metals markets to take advantage of this.

What size wire are you using? If you are using the .035 size, maybe you will have better luck with the thinner wire. If you can stabilize your power source (wire it straight to the breaker box, big fat extension, don't run other tools or appliances, etc), that can help too. But honestly, I was never able to overcome the problems you describe with my old flux core welder. I finally ditched it got a small name brand MIG welder with the gas shielding and that kind of welding turned out to be so much better.

R Lee Ermey from FULL METAL JACKET Dang it! I used to like that movie.

I guess y'all won't be wanting any more of our oil any more then.

Do ya think he might be one of those new imports (from californ-eye-a)? We might need some more rules.

I felt really bad for him when I heard he was paralyized. That kind of hammers it home - that you never know what life has in store for you.

New Years Ever, Skiing in Stowe Vermont probably in '84 or '85 - My wife and I were drinking in a pub, and Christopher Reeve walks in and sits down at the bar next to me. The place went deathly quiet. My wife is knudging me and wispering "say something". So I turned to Mr Reeve and said something like "Howya doin'. Want to shoot some darts?" So we played a game of 301 and then the other bar patrons got their courage and started razzing him with stuff like "Hey Superman - Don't throw the darts too hard - they might go through the wall". He got highly peeved and left the pub in the middle of the game.

I saw him in a new Dew commercial this weekend. It was pretty funny.

I had an N 6 and compared it side by side with E36 or what ever was bolted to the '72 SU's and couldn't see a visible difference between the two. At least not enough to want to take the trouble to move the carbs to the N36 instead of selling the N36.