gramercyjam

No, not concerned about any cracking. Yes, it is mounted solid, and it is very tight in the steel frame, so there is absolutely no movement possible of the tank in the frame. I was a little concerned that there could be abrasion, so I watch for any kind of seepage due to abrasion, but it hasn't happened in the year its been in service and it has been abused a lot. Including some TT/DE days at 145mph on very rough concrete with lots of vibration. I even wrecked once at about 100mph one day and took a hard hit on the rear quarter into a dirt/rock berm that folded the rear quarter panel up under the battery tray and folded up the sheet metal between the frame rail and the quarter panel. No problems with the fuel cell and battery tray at all so far.

Exactly like you see it. It vents out a hole in the deck to under the car. I suppose you could plumb it to a catch can if your rules require it.

I get the fuel boiling/vaporization problem without a heat shield on my Weber 45's. Thats with 2 sets of manifold insulators installed. It's not heating up from the head or the fuel lines. The problem shows up as a no idle, stalling/flooding/hard start condition after a hard 60 sec. run that really heats things up. The problem cannot be reproduced in the garage or tooling around on the street. The installation of a thin aluminum sheet between the headers and the carbs cured the problem immediately. There might be some differences in the way our carbs/engines are setup as to why some people get the problem, and some don't.

Old racer trick. They tech your ride height with the wood in the springs, then during the race the wood falls out and your car gets lower, handles better.

passenger side top rear of block. the block number is different than the vin # but will match the block number on the plate rivited to the firewall.

Jon, I have GC camber plates in the back. All the work I did to mount them was to facilitate adjustments that allowed removing neg. camber with them. They seem to be designed to add neg. camber to a stock ride height car. I have raised my ride height an inch since then to allow 245-45 16 DOT radial slicks to fit without rubbing the fenders in the corners. So I added a little camber back in the rear too. I need to add another degree or so of neg camber in the front, and I think I'll do that via adjustable lower control arms. Then when I eventually add a strut tower bar to the front, I won't have to make it adjustable, and it will have adjustable caster too. I still need a toe-in adjuster in the rear. That would have helped prevent the wreck that bent up my car at a DE/TT event earlier this year.

I could, eventually when I take them off again. I don't plan on having my front end apart again for another couple months though. They are just the top and bottom aluminum plates, a monoball and 3 bolts to hold them together. The monball is pressed into one plate. Don't forget the cone washer!

Undue? I haven't seen stress cracks there on mine. If it happens, oh well. It is the cost of racing and it will be repaired and beefed up better than new. If you are worried about it, then don't go that way. Stick to the rubber isolators.

Is what you are thinking of like these? http://sth2.com/Z-car/shocks.htm I've got his old front set that were made for tokicos. They work great. No camber adjustability in them though.

That sandwich looks like Madonna to me.

Speedometer error? According to the speedometers, my stock 240Z had a higher top speed than my 340 RWHP Corvette. The Z was also magically invisible to radar as I could zoom by the state police going 90 and never get a ticket.

First thing I'd try is re-torquing the head bolts. 60 ft. lbs. is near spec but IMHO too low. I like 70 ft. lbs.

When it comes to SCCA racing, it is best to have a current rule book in hand. Building a car with out a rule book can land you in a class where the car is hopelessly outclassed. What kind of SCCA activites are you thinking about? Solo I, Solo II (autocross)?

used this way by machinests and fabricators I suppose (see bold) ..... from webster.com Main Entry: proud Pronunciation: 'praud Function: adjective Etymology: Middle English, from Old English prud, probably from Old French prod, prud, prou capable, good, valiant, from Late Latin prode advantage, advantageous, back-formation from Latin prodesse to be advantageous, from pro-, prod- for, in favor + esse to be -- more at PRO-, IS 1 : feeling or showing pride: as a : having or displaying excessive self-esteem b : much pleased : EXULTANT c : having proper self-respect 2 a : marked by stateliness : MAGNIFICENT b : giving reason for pride : GLORIOUS <the proudest moment in her life> 3 : VIGOROUS, SPIRITED <a proud steed> 4 chiefly British : raised above a surrounding area <a proud design on a stamp>

The auction is gone. Was it a scam?

My head only takes 12 lash pads. They are about $3.00 each. But if you don't need different ones with a longer valve, why buy them. Something that effects lash pad selection (besides cam, shaving, shims, ...) is when you put in larger seats and valves, the effective length of the valve stem will change from what was in there (at least mine do) due to the valves sitting prouder in the chambers.

Sorry to say, I haven't noticed that mine is noisy. But my exhaust is pretty loud and I don't hear much of anything. After a run though, after shutting down the car, a few minutes later (probably as the diff cools off), I do get one little BANG back there. Not sure what that is.

I thought I'd add what I found with these seals. I bought some of the SS72686 seals for a large valve E31 head running a .570" lift cam with the schneider springs and retainers. In my case, the black felpro stock valve stem seals would have handled up to a .500" valve lift but no more. The SS72686 seals fit very tightly on the guides. So tight they need to be pressed on. If the guides aren't nicely chamfered (on my head some were, some weren't) and lubricated, the seals will get torn and deformed during installation. Also, once they are on, they don't want to come off. These seals will easily allow valve lifts of .600"+++ I picked up a second set of seals this morning. The first set I put on and took off _might_ still work, but for $20, I'm doing it right the second time. In hindsight, all of this should have been obvious. Oh well.

I'm thinking a cylindrical steel blank larger in diameter than the current valve guide and centered where a stock guide goes, with a hole for the valve offset to the side of the steel blank. I'll probably never get around to this though unless I get my own machine shop.

There's someone around here with some Z's that sells re-ground delta cams and rockers on ebay. He likes them. He was running out of used rockers to regrind though. I'm hanging onto my stash and will probably get some of the more worn ones reground there.

Those heart shaped chambers were welded up like that in the "How to modify" book. Monkey see, monkey do. He also had some flat top pistons. They were going for high compression ratio on that motor in the book and that was how that particular motor build got the high compression. Welding up some heads and shaving beyond mfgrs. recommendation are both illegal in the SCCA. If you compete in SCCA, your going to need to find an OEM high compression head, some custom pistons to fill up those low compression chambers, or both. Valve size isn't an issue since you can make the valves and seats as big as will fit on any of the L heads. (All the heads need to deal with the same limiting distance between the intakes and exhausts). Port and polish them. I think it's a wash either way you go. You can make any head work. No, I don't have the tech to back it up. Buy some good race gas to take care of the pinging. And if your not racing, what does it matter really. EDIT: I wonder if there are such as thing as offset valve guides that could allow wider valve spacing ........

I picked the best of the bunch in my collection of about 100 or more rocker arms ensuring the castings were all similar. I wouldn't attempt resuracing them by hand on deeply worn rockers though. I used some medium emory, then fine emory, then some 320 wet and 400 wet. Came out very nice. It didn't take all that long. Just set the abrasive side up on a table and run the rockers slowly back and forth with a slight rocking motion until you no longer see the line from cam wear. Try to keep pressure even on both sides while you do this, and turn the rocker over frequently to visually check that you are grinding it evenly and not round ing the surface side to side or putting a flat spot on the rocker.

I picked up an '83 N/a 5 speed from Pick N Pull for $43.