gramercyjam

A while back some folks wanted to see how I modified my rear strut towers to accept ground control camber plates as on my '73, the strut top bends down considerably greatly reducing adjustability. I got a new camera so, here it is:

Flattops on a 72. Thats a twist!

Been trying, but haven't been able to even though the upload finishes. Pics were about 500K and 2048X1536. Too Big?

I just did some surfing for forged pistons and Vienola forged pistons, part number 10420 are listed a $80 each at flatlander racing. Are these no-good for a 14-15:1 motor? The whole timing chain thing could be improved greatly, I think. Chain whip and dynamics aside, the most basic issue I've seen is they wear. Where do the little pieces of the tensioner and guide go when they wear off? It can't be good for the oiling system.

My car has 16X10 rims and tires with 5" backspace on the rims and coilovers. I have 1/2" spacers on the rear and 1/2" + 1/8" spacers on the front and I think I can see daylight between the lower perch and the tire if I squint just right. Fronts don't rub with some minor fender rolling, the rears required major bashing out of the fenders with a sledge.

It can't be 48/51. Maybe 48/52 or 49/51?

What about one of these? http://www.iskycams.com/partnum_template.php?compid=69&dealer=no&partnumber=718196

There is one here in San Antonio that does it. Southwest Brake and Alignment, 3930 Pan Am Expressway (IH35 inside city limits, next to the water park), 210-255-5577. Does a great alignment, tires on the car balance and skim. The transformation on a car with a shaky ride can be magical!

Ah ha. That was the delay. I'm at work, so I had the volume turned down pretty low. Maybe well meet up someday. My motor still need lots of work so it isn't as fast as it could be either! For the forseeable future, I am working on the chassis, not go fast stuff. Mostly media blasting with Black Diamonds (this stuff is great), welding, priming so it doesn't look like, and drive like such a beater. I don't really want to be part of the Jackstand Racing team, so it's going slow as I am just doing small areas at a time. At under !900 lbs, the weight advantage is significant, but my car is getting heavier now because of added steel to stiffen things up so until I'm done with that, I won't know which motor the car will end up with (depends on weight). So thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it. Also there is a good chance my job will move far away later this year, so I am starting to think about what goes with me and what doesn't (if I move with it) so I'd like to have a good idea of what motor I will be using by then, as I have all three motors in my shop and don't think I want to take them all with me.

I mean the gas. (Edit button seems to have disappeared)

Thanks for sharing the video. You might try standing on it to straighten it out when the tail starts coming around like that, or maybe not. It works on my car.

Thats normal. I have 300# 8 inch in the rear and #300 7 inch in the front. When you lower the car, the strut will compress. The hat needs room to wobble on the shaft a little too if they are like my GC hats and camber plates . You might want to zip tie the hat to the spring so it doesn't have problems seating in the hat after full droop.

Mine rocks.

A few guys in the San Antonio club have a team. Might want to get in touch with them and see what their doing. Civic Si GS 72 (Kevin) @ http://www.conehunter.com or the guys @ crcmotorsports.com

What I have read is that it doesn't. I think I even used to believe this. But right now it seems completely counter-intuitive.

Cheap steel? Not sure I know what that means. The metal that is used for cars is really nothing like what you can buy in a steel yard. Car manufacturers all have special chemical formulations for their steel that are intended to help improve the results of metal forming process. I'm pretty sure the Japanese were way ahead of us on that back in the day, just as they were with the actual production of steel. Back in the '50's thru the late '70's, when I lived in a rural part of upstate NY, it was damn rare to see any brand of car that was more than a couple years old that wasn't rusted out.

Progressives are probably a good compromise for handling VS comfort. Progressives are not an acceptable option for those that don't won't compromise handling for comfort.

I've been running 300# with the illuminas since last year. Seems to work OK for cheapo shocks.

I use a short 5# sledge on mine. Flattens them right out.

You guys looks like you know what your doing. Nice welding.

If you saw Janets booby, that means you were watching Justin Timberlake and I just feel sorry for you. Disclaimer: I was working on my Z. I know about it 'cause my wife told me.

When you stop driving your car on the street, usually because it is no longer street legal, or it can't sit at a stop light without overheating or can't negotiate speed bumps without getting stuck, or you always drive with one tire in the center of the lane because it sits so low the exhaust drags otherwise, it's a race car.

Thats pretty much the way mine is. It works fine. Just make sure your fuel pressure is _low_. 3 to 3.5 PSI for Webers. Mukinis should be similar.

Jack Daniels talking here .... Screw tuning triples. Who cares if they idle or run smooth part throttle. Who cares what your gas mileage is. Not me. Some people can tune em. Most people can't handle it. Hell, most people can't even change an oil filter without screwing it up. For me, they only need to work when my foot is thru the floor, and for me they do. But then again, I AM a savage neanderthal. And oh yea, how much faster will I go if I get the anodized underdrive pulleys instead of the plain ones?

I owned a P.O.S. VW Rabbit once that had the brake lines inside the car. Thats the way they come. It was up north. The one running along the drivers side sill corroded and burst.