jpndave

I agree on the in-floor heat if possible, tube heater 2nd choice. In AL the tube heater might be a good compromise, heats objects well, quiet doesn't require a boiler. With sealed combustion chamber and outside combustion air, relatively safe with combustible vapors. Definitely a floor drain. In my 1300 sq ft garage I have 7 - 4ft 2 tube electronic ballast high color temp tube fixtures plus 4 smaller fixtures for "walk through" vs "working" lighting discourages the wife and kids from leaving the main lighting on if it's switched in an inconvenient location. If the ceiling is bright white I have found the fixtures without a reflector actually bounce light better. That level of lighting has been good, I wouldn't do less. True electronic ballasts (I have Workhorse) don't pulse, are quiet (no hum) and more efficient. The high temp high CRI tubes (T8) are much nicer for working in, not "cool white" mine are above "daylight". I have one of the large industrial bladed ceiling fan for cooling and it moves air well but an actual cooler would be better. Plan ahead for outlets both 110 and 220, too many is not enough. I ran the basic wiring in the walls and the 220 and additional outlets in conduit surface mounted for future expansion. A good 2 stage compressor is a must, quieter is nice mine is 80 gallon 5hp 220v 17 CFM @ 175 psi and has worked well for everything I have needed. Plan your air lines to allow condensation to drain out at low spots. I had a copper cooler built that was extremely effective in a previous install. The water separator after was always dry. Upper cabinets everywhere allows storage on the walls but keeps the space below to store MIG, TIG, Plasma, torch, saws, brake, etc. HTH

Here are a couple of photos from that thread that show the Lizard skin while being sprayed on and after being coated with the urethane. Body tub upside down sprayed with Lizard Skin. Looking up after urethane coat and installation. You can see the contrast in sheen/texture of the urethane when sprayed over the Lizard Skin as opposed to over the POR15, same paint. Don't mind the nasty looking transfer case during mock-up.

On my 240 I'll plan on at least 4 gallons, maybe more. I'll probably cave and do the SC along with the regular ceramic. I'm not building a track car, more pro-touring/G-machine. I'd like it to be capable of some track days and maybe some autocross. I still want A/C, a half decent sound system, power windows and locks in a nice interior. If you do the SC, put it on first as it is a heavier denser product.

Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks JoeK, it's been a bit of a project. Here goes for the POR15 to Lizard skin procedure. POR15 is brutal strong stuff and really hard once cured. It doesn't top coat well at all once cured. It also doesn't stick well to other paint, great on rusty metal (not flaky) and on properly prepared bare steel (blasted in my case). To coat the tub on that Jeep, I scuffed everything well that had factory paint. The rest needs to be timed out and done sequentially. Coat bare metal with POR15, a brush works fine for small spots, spray the larger areas. Let the POR15 flash off until tacky. Then do a light dust coat of the Lizard skin, let that flash then coat as per instructions with the Lizard skin. I did two coats of the sound reduction and two of the regular ceramic on both sides of the tub. So eight in all. After that cured out, I sprayed a PPG industrial urethane to protect the Lizard Skin to protect it as it isn't super durable. The Jeep is quiet for sound transmission through the tub. Exhaust note through the windows, not so much. It's still quieter than my wife's car with the hard top on and that's saying something with the 37" mud tires and large exhaust. Keep in mind that POR15 is moisture cured, if even a drop of sweat gets in the can and it will kick. The water based Lizard Skin accelerates the cure of the POR15 but by the time that goes on you are ready for it. The insides of the doors were also sprayed with the Lizard Skin. I plan to do inside the hard top but haven't gotten around to it yet. If I remember correctly I have 10 gallons in that Jeep, plus 4 more waiting to do inside the top. A Z would be a lot less. I don't know if I'll do the sound control on the Z, depends on how crazy I go on weight reduction. The SC is light and the ceramic is almost nothing for weight gain. Even wet, before sprayed they are light. You could probably spray the whole car underneath and inside for the weight of one stick on deadening panel. Definitely the way to go. On the frame, POR15 over blasted steel followed by a dusting of the urethane and then full coats. The trick is to embed the dust coat in tacky POR15 before laying down the full coats. POR15 makes a bonding agent but I was too cheap to add that cost and weight to the rig. The procedure I just outlined work very well. Just don't stop until you are done. I hope that all makes sense. Maybe I'll review this later and make modifications to the write up to clarify.

JoeK, I am new to the forum here but have quite a bit of experience with projects and have had a 240 for nearly 30 yrs. I just brought the old girl in for a complete makeover. I would love to see/hear more details on the rotisserie you built and will follow this with interest as I am just heading into all the replacements due to years of rust along with every reinforcement I can make. I did a frame off on a Jeep JK Unlimited LS3/6L80E project. I used POR15 (on any bare metal) followed by 2 coats of Lizard Skin SC and 2 more of the ceramic on each side of the tub coated with an industrial urethane for protection. It has worked very well. There are some tricks to the procedure which I happy to share if you would like. You can see the Jeep build here: http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?77265-Jeep-JK-Unlimited-quot-Transformer-quot-6-2L-quot-LS3-quot-GM-build Don't want to derail your thread. Dave