Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks JoeK, it's been a bit of a project.
Here goes for the POR15 to Lizard skin procedure. POR15 is brutal strong stuff and really hard once cured. It doesn't top coat well at all once cured. It also doesn't stick well to other paint, great on rusty metal (not flaky) and on properly prepared bare steel (blasted in my case). To coat the tub on that Jeep, I scuffed everything well that had factory paint. The rest needs to be timed out and done sequentially. Coat bare metal with POR15, a brush works fine for small spots, spray the larger areas. Let the POR15 flash off until tacky. Then do a light dust coat of the Lizard skin, let that flash then coat as per instructions with the Lizard skin. I did two coats of the sound reduction and two of the regular ceramic on both sides of the tub. So eight in all. After that cured out, I sprayed a PPG industrial urethane to protect the Lizard Skin to protect it as it isn't super durable. The Jeep is quiet for sound transmission through the tub. Exhaust note through the windows, not so much. It's still quieter than my wife's car with the hard top on and that's saying something with the 37" mud tires and large exhaust. Keep in mind that POR15 is moisture cured, if even a drop of sweat gets in the can and it will kick. The water based Lizard Skin accelerates the cure of the POR15 but by the time that goes on you are ready for it. The insides of the doors were also sprayed with the Lizard Skin. I plan to do inside the hard top but haven't gotten around to it yet. If I remember correctly I have 10 gallons in that Jeep, plus 4 more waiting to do inside the top. A Z would be a lot less. I don't know if I'll do the sound control on the Z, depends on how crazy I go on weight reduction. The SC is light and the ceramic is almost nothing for weight gain. Even wet, before sprayed they are light. You could probably spray the whole car underneath and inside for the weight of one stick on deadening panel. Definitely the way to go.
On the frame, POR15 over blasted steel followed by a dusting of the urethane and then full coats. The trick is to embed the dust coat in tacky POR15 before laying down the full coats. POR15 makes a bonding agent but I was too cheap to add that cost and weight to the rig. The procedure I just outlined work very well. Just don't stop until you are done.
I hope that all makes sense. Maybe I'll review this later and make modifications to the write up to clarify.
