jpndave

You need to match the master/slave combination. I'm not sure what volume that slave has. Larger master means more throw at the clutch at a higher effort. Smaller master is less throw and lighter pedal. And remember it's based on the area of the bore, not the diameter.

4 cylinder it is then!

Width is 2" narrower than the strut towers and that should be the worst of it. I'm a little worried about the alternator and A/C, both low and forward. Ford is going to offer the Voodoo as a crate. Over 500hp and 8,000+RPM with that engine. Should be lighter than even an LS with the flat crank.

I'm leaning toward the wide ratio because 1-4 are more evenly spaced and I would like a low RPM cruise for economy and comfort on the highway. I hate to admit this but I am seriously considering using a Ford engine in this project. I know it's like heresy to speak here, especially on this part of the forum, but that new Voodoo engine is really cool. It has both the sound and high RPM capability that I dearly love about the Z now. I may put a Coyote in it for now and in a couple of years when I can get a 5.2L Voodoo go that route. I haven't decided for sure. Already have a LS3 mock-up block and know that engine inside and out which makes the decision that much harder. I just can't get the sound and RPM I really want with the LS. Plus the way the engines deliver the power, the DOHC with VVT would work much better at having the high RPM with low cruise speed and hit better down low so the car isn't all over the place in the lower gears.

Here is the manufacturer's page. I think mine is a locking 300 series. http://www.newton-equipment.com/aero-filler-cap-range.html It seals with an o-ring that is engaged when you rotate the cover, top shelf product.

I have one of the caps like your original post, aircraft spruce link on socorob's post. Quality and function is superb. It's in the Jeep project in my signature. Make sure it's positioned to allow a fuel nozzle to fit properly.

Well, I might be making a pair of molds...

Have you got a bracket to mount it with? The Gen 3 is kind of a pain that way.

The PCM is very resilient and is weatherproofed to go in the engine bay. I wouldn't mount it right next to the exhaust but most anywhere else is fine. The Gen 4 is easier to fit than a Gen 3.

Here is some information I found. One of these is on the first page of this this thread.

I am seriously considering going this route over the LS. That is saying a lot, I KNOW the LS and have done swaps on them before. I have a 6.2L I am stroking now in my JK, 4" to a 6.8L and had planned a similar non-VVT engine for the 240Z. The 4 valve Coyote or much, much more ideally the Voodoo seem to really have what I want in the Z. That is a high revving (over 8K on the Voodoo!) powerful lightweight engine and in the Voodoo's case, that sublime, exotic sound! My Z has a balance, blueprinted short stroke 2.6L (280 bore, 240 stroke), cammed tri Weber setup now. I want lots more power but the high revving engine and sound are great. I hate to lose that. Also, with the LS, many are saying that the low end at slower speeds is simply too much when you get up in the power levels. This seems like the perfect balance. A true sports car engine that loves to wind up. And with the VVT and 4 valve heads, you can have the smooth bottom end and still keep the high power levels. So, after reviewing the dimensions I appears with the Coyote, that it is tight but doable on the width. I'll likely have to make headers but will probably want to do that anyway. I may be able to modify some shorties for now and do long tubes later. The alternator and A/C might cause issues, hard to tell on that. With the Voodoo, time will tell. They do plan to offer it as a crate. It may be a while before that is available. Hopefully the Voodoo will keep a standard Modular bellhousing pattern. Don't know if I would trust the 3160 and should have a T56 Magnum in a week or so anyway. They are rated to handle the RPM for shifting. Anyone have any more current info on the Voodoo or more knowledge/suggestions on the Coyote? Any threads I am missing? I think I am in for this route. Will they cruise at say 1500RPM at 60MPH? My LS does that pushing a 5500lb. rig on 37" mud tires quite nicely. Really helps with comfort and mileage. But, stand on it and drop two gears and the fun starts! A 2300-2500lb. Z should be easy to push along by comparison.

HP tuners or EFI live can disable the VATS and set your parameters to what you need in the Z. We have both here but usually use HP Tuners. Depending on how you have your engine wired, you'll want VATS disabled, tire size and gear ratio set, speed input set depending on what you have for VSS, emissions turned off if you aren't running it, tach set to a 6 cylinder out probably (4 hi and 4 low on a Gen 3, Gen 4 is a little fussier as 58 isn't easily divided by 6 but 5 high and 5 low gets you close enough). On the Gen 3 it's possible to get full operation out of the PCM only, even cruise. I deal with this stuff every day. Let me know if I can help.

It sounds like you have a few things going on. Who reworked your harness? Are you trying to go through the GTO original harness and PCM to trigger the starter? I would go straight to the starter for that wire, not through the GM harness. The PCM will need to be flashed for it to run. You don't need the body module for engine operation.

Any updates on these? Still available?

It shouldn't affect the width. If anything might be more compact. These engines are wide on the top. If I could get my hands on one of these, I would make it fit! Maybe I should do a Coyote now and swap one of these in a few years. Hmmmm

I think this would be the best way to go. We use a Camaro factory cable or sometimes the Lokar on our drive by cable Jeep swaps. If I don't do drive by wire I'll go this route. I can post the Camaro number if anyone would like it when I get to my computer.

So this looks like a T56 Magnum (which is all T6060 internals) and additional upgrades depending on what options you selected with a Camaro T56 tail for fit. It looks like they all get upgraded bronze shift pads and carbon blocker rings 1-4. The level 5 gets a cryo treatment and REM polish. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for all the advice. Phantom, that's a good perspective to keep. It's easy to get caught up in trying to get everything and lose focus on what the primary goal is. This will be on the street 90% of the time. I'd like to be able to take it to Miller Motorsports track a few times a year and maybe to the dragstrip a couple of times. I just want to enjoy the car. That doesn't mean it can't be an extreme build, just need to stay focused. So Pro-Touring type build with some limited track time. Engine will be a slightly built LS3 (I'm also considering an LS7 or the new LT1) planning on 500 RWHP or a little more. That should be fairly easy to obtain with any of those combinations. I like the 6.2L in my Jeep and want just a little more on the top end with this car, otherwise I would be happy with that. I'll probably lighten up the rotating assembly wherever I can to let it wind up faster and rev higher. I am in the process of putting a 4.0" crank in the Jeep. I don't think that I will go that route on the Z to let it wind up faster. I'll be focusing on the lightweight parts wherever is reasonable without using unobtainium, probably bump the compression slightly, clean-up and polish the heads, free flowing exhaust, high lift on the cam would be good and a little cam timing change but don't want to go too far to have things lumpy, needs to stay really streetable. On the gearing, just want to make sure that everything will work out well with the combination I am planning. Good spacing for the gears, not too low on the bottom to be roasting tires everywhere but low enough I'm not riding the clutch all the time at slow speeds. In 6th, great fuel economy and low rpms for cruising comfort but not so low that it's causing problems with the cam.

Is this what you have here? http://www.tickperformance.com/t56-magnum-tr-6060-conversions/