jpndave

The "how it was done" is what I am impressed with, nice routing. The fact you got a shop to actually do it right, well that's icing on the cake. I like the bulkhead fittings through the inner fenders, nice touch. Billet clamps are really nice as well. I'll have to go that route on my car.

Outstanding work on your project! Love the tube routing work, could call that "art". The Mil-spec wire is pretty sweet. I have some samples here and would love to go that route with my project.

Hmm, tempting... Are they selling parts or the whole car? I could use rockers for sure, maybe a roof or at least a patch on the rear pillar. I'll have to look over what else.

Yeah, that won't be happening. I wish! I'll be using full rockers and floors in this old girl.

Ok, thanks for the replies. I'll just order those up along with the other piece I need. I need to get over and see your project one of these days!

I know that this is an old thread but after much searching I haven't been able to find a better one. I need rockers for my car and would like the best quality available. A good price would be nice too but secondary to the quality. Is Motorsports as good as any? I have another item I need from them and a free shipping code. Thanks in advance! Dave

Nice, I'm looking forward to seeing the results!

I have lift envy... Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

So, what's the pattern and bore? I have a few 32 spline shafts here we should try out in it.

Yes, very nice!

What gauge is clustered with your speedo? How did you lay out the three in the pods? Looks like a great setup!

Nice! Love the seats!

What do you think speeds will run? I'm curious how much power it takes to get to 180? 200?

Nice! I like that larger spoiler. I'm very interested to hear the results.

If we can get the wheel bolt surface to center of KPI down to about 3" those wheels will work. Not sure that even makes sense. The stock strut will be more forgiving with a steeper angle but sacrifices in other places.

Only the front really matters because of scrub. I'll just build the rear to fit.

I was looking at these. Highest offset is 50mm which I'm not sure will do it. We'll see. Cost isn't horrible and staggered configuration is available. http://enkei.com/product-category/wheels/racing/

I had a set picked out but after more research may need more offset to really get the KPI/SAI right with zero dynamic scrub. I'll need to get my math closer to finalized before settling on the wheels. I had to do similar on that Jeep and it was a lot less complicated suspension! I'm planning on 18" staggered set hopefully a lightweight 5 spoke or paired 5 spoke. Cost for the wheels needs to stay out of the stratosphere too.

Nice! I am planning to A-arm my car as well. I'll be interested how this turns out.

It was cool checking out your project. Always great when the parts measure out correct! I have a set of Manley H-Beams here as well as stock Gen 4 rods if you want to check them out. These photos belong over here now...

Brake and clutch master cylinders and balance bar. Not sure if I will use this or just buy a set of pedals, leaning towards the "buy pedals" option.

And with some small mods, the factory controls bolt right on...

Here is the column.

You should be able to pick up a Sweet or similar rack off of eBay for a decent price. Just will take some patience to get the right ratio and width. That's the direction I'll go. I haven't nailed down all the geometries yet. Debating on hubs, etc. I'll probably use the late Mustang parts just because that will make the rear half-shafts easier and cheaper as well as a really common bolt pattern, brake availability, etc.

Thanks for the reply Chris. I don't dare go any lower in the rear and it is already starting to push economy at cruise. I don't think gearing will be a limitation on acceleration, should be traction limited even with sticky 295 tires. Top speed will be power limited with a teoetical of . 200mph would be at hp peak in 5th. The I am certain will be pushing it. Here we have several "legal" choices to use that speed. Salt flats are a few hours away. Road course at Miller Motorsportz Park about 1-1/2 hrs and the run outside Vegas as well as their track about 6hrs. I wouldn't mind just seeing what it will do at least once. Got to get it built first which is proving to be a very slow process. 4130 is stronger but definatly needs to be welded properly. I already have the tubing from an abandoned project. I'm also planning on 4130 in the supports, floors, suspension and scattershield for the tunnel. Trying to save weight wherever remotely practical while increasing strength. I have Miller 200DX TIG and 350P MIG to weld with. Proper prep, back purging and post weld normalizing will be in order. I know the A-arms are adding some work but the end result is much superior and I'll regret it if I don't being as far down as I am on metal replacement now is the time. I'll take a look at your project for ideas there. Stock rack is aluminum but I have two concerns with it: Width, It will need to match the suspension pickup points for bumpsteer, and Strength. We'll see how it matches up. I really appreciate the comments on getting it on a rack. Been worried about that. One of the front rails is buckled and pushed slightly back. I think I need to get those sorted out first then up on the rotisserie. Not sure how to make a rotisserie work without the rails there unless I weld in a temporary support in the engine bay which might be a good idea actually. I have seriously gone back and forth on the engine. I am intimately familiar with the LS family. That route would be cheaper and easier, no contest. Lighter than a Coyote (LS is ~430, Coyote ~444, heavier than Voodoo, no specific #s I have found overall but the crank alone more than makes up the difference). However, I love having a high revving exotic sounding engine in that car. The LS can be made to rev at an exponentially higher cost the higher you go. But, by camming it to do that you lose the smooth bottom end so at highway cruise it would be loping which doesn't work even using their VVT. My Jeep is right at the cam limit for keeping the cruise and it's more than 1000rpm off on the top end. There is no way to get an exotic BRAPP sound out of it, destinctive and cool? Yes! But not the same spine tingling sound. It would sound just like my 6.8 in the Jeep. Also, power delivery is much better to avoid wheelspin. Not quite as strong on the bottom but more on top, very progressive build of power and tons from about 4k to the 7200 peak and on up over 8200. Coyote will just be a stopgap if necessary. I'm rambling, thanks again for your comments. I'll look into that suspension and rotisserie info.