MREDDLE

If you can find some thick metal, you could heat it up (glowing red) then clamp it down to the metal and let it cool. This might help get it closer to bing stright. I have done this many of times and it does help. The large belt sander is the quickest, if someone has done one before.

I'm looking at installing a VQ35DE or HR in my 280z. I am looking at doing a stroker motor 4.1L or 4.3L? So, I find out that the frontier and others came with a VQ40DE motor that shares the block with the VQ35HR. My problem is that I can not find any information on the VQ40DE, VQ35DE or VQ35HR. Like head CCs, block hight, runner length, valve dia, ect.. or if the VQ40DE is infact a stroked VQ35HR motor? I do know that the VQ40DE, VQ35HR and VK45de motors have the same tranny bolt pattern. So, the question is does anyone know were I can get any information/specs on this motors. I wanted to input the in the engine design utility for everyone to use.

Well I have a lot to do before I start buying up FG parts. I just figured I would start looking. Anyways how do they look? Can you post some pictures. Thanks.

Very nice build... What size AN fitting are you using for your radiator?

Thank you for your help. Monkeyt88, can forward me that link, when you get a chance? Sorry everyone for the spelling, not my strong suit. Also, I will be looking to buy or have them made. I will let everyone know what I find.

Im wondering if anyone makes fiberglass or carbon fiber stock front fenders? And doors that will take a window? Thanks for your time.

Very nice swap.... These are the only 240sx bodies I like.

I've had many "run-ins" with MSA and will never buy anything from them again. I would reconmend you send it back to them for a new one or get a shop to flatten it. the header when hot should "bend" back to bing somewhat stright but when cold or anytime slowly pull the studs out of the head and take the treads with it. you shouldn't take any chances beacause MSA dosen't want to man up and replace it. Just my 3 cents.

Thanks for everyones help. This is the best forum.

Yes I understand the differance between L4 and L6. The broblem I have is that I trashed my stock computer and distributor some time ago, in favor of my SDS distributorless ignition and fuel system. So this brings me to the present, I have no distributor and would like to spend ok money on good parts. I would also like to have a clean system with the lest amount of wiring.

Because the last 4 times I tried to buy one. Some ebay savy gent snake it in the last 1/20 of a second. I dont have any distributor at the moment. I was thinking about getting a 82+ dizzy and "making" it work. Is this possible? I like the slim profile.

Are the datsun l4 and l6 distributors interchangable? I heard "somewere" that they are the same but with differant caps? I have a 78' 280z and I have pulled all my turbo things and standalone. I'm going back to try my webers again, so I need a distributor, on a budget. I want to use the E12-80 modual for ease of wiring. I don't remiber how to wire it and if there is any recommendations that anyone has please chime in. Thanks again.

Ya I have been apart of this web forums for years but changed my username cause I lost my old e-mail.

I am moving and can not take my race car. Its a 1978 built 280z. Better I put up pictures or try to sell the parts here in Las Vegas i wanted to know if anyone arround here would be interested in buying it. or any of its parts. I a built motor: knife edged crank, forged rods & pistons, racing valve train, sleved block, and a copper head gasket. There is a SDS engine managment w/coil packs and 850cc injectors. A custom turbo kit: equal length exhuast manifold, holset turbo, and a custom intake manifold w/ custom fuel rail. Bosch 600hp high flow fuel pump. So let me know what the interest might be. Thanks.