660Z
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Posts posted by 660Z
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charge light....i was told
on bad... off good....ok i understand that..but im thinking i might have mine wired wrong becaulse i don`t see a problem.it`s wired per JTR... internal reg. alt. with R/F posts (I think going from memory right now 1am)
anyway if looking from the back, the post close to the strut tower is pluged into the wiring harness and the post close to the motor is wired right to the charge light.
now when i turn the key the meter reads 12v
...start the car reads 12v ....rev to 2k jumps to 14v light is on now recently i was moving cars around and i started it and removed the battery...car dies...start it again..rev to 2k..remove battery car stays running...which tells me alt is working fine and light is also telling me that by being on.
am i wrong? ive used these type alt for a long time with other cars...but this is a first with this stupid light...ive only seen it off once in the month ive been driving it. thanks mark
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my 240z is popping in the front suspension.i suspect the T/C rods bushings....is it something i should be worried about?...or is it just something these cars do?....ive had it for almost a yr and never really gave it much thought until my truck`s balljoint let loose.......mark
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i already had the car and motor...and i have $1900 into it as it sits including DR`s and Victor jr intake....i could have done it a lot cheeper going to swapmeets and what not,but it was faster and easier to buy new.
off the top of my head...
JTR L/R set back plates,trans crossmember...111.00
carb 830db....380.00
victor jr.intake.....170?
hooker headers....134.00
r200 rears (2)...300.00
driveshaft and adapter...110.00
exshust....340.00
dragradials...208.00
and the nickle and dime stuff that always get you!!!!
it really would be cheaper to buy one already done and modify it the way you want as time goes on...if you want to build one get one that`s rust free in the frame and floorboards...the motorwork is easy...strengthening the body for your motor isn`t......mark
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i can`t wait for retardment...im only half way there!
....although some say im already there.... -
sorry guys guess i should have been more clear that it is my s-10 truck
but as any young jedi knight knows always learn from the force....it`s good to know that early z`s balljoints are bolt in.....but i don`t think i`ll have to worry about a 30+ yr old car. both American and japanese, since both made quality parts back then!...unlike the cost cutting crap they use today!
sorry still a little angery.....mark -
well just talked to the shop
...having all 4 balljoints replaced along with 2 tie rods and adjuster,lower A arm bushings,backing plate and alingment....all for 550-600 he said the lower a arm was pushed back an 1" and the bushing bolt went right throught the lowercontrol arm bushings.the inner and outer tie rods were bent and the backing plate was pushed into the rotor.
man i was
when she told me the price i didn`t expect to pay that much...becausle i can do the work myself, i just don`t have a ball joint press and i need the truck for vacation in a week...so i talked to the mechanic and everything he said sounded possable...so i guess it`s better that it went a 5-10mph instead of 70-80mph....could have cost me a lot more.. markP.S. as you`ll read in the replies below this is my 94 s-10 truck and not my z car...mark
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sorry pete it`s been a LONGGGG day....
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i don`t think you`ll be able to get one of those for $3250...i didn`t see a price but i would guess the street one goes for around 8k and the race goes for around 10-12k....i`d just find a 454 out of a old motorhome and build it to those power levels for 1/4 the price....mark
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DOH!!!!!!!
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the charge light on the volt guage....am i to understand that it`s NOT supposed to stay on all the time?....i thought the light was an idiot light for people that didn`t know how to read a volt guage so they know their alt was working....oh well it`s probablly becaulse i use the twist-terminal-tighting method becaulse i use one battery for 3 toys....yes im cheap!!!!
...mark -
i was more relieved than anything else....messing with online security isn`t funny to me.....mark
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all i did was bent a 1/8 flat metal bar over the rear....and bolted it to the two bolts on top of the rear and two bolts on the front crossmember....if you still have a r180 front member the holes are already there i used 3/8 header bolts and you`ll need i think 5.5-6" bolts for the rear.
quite a few are using this type of unit...just bend the bar in a vise...no welding keep it all one unit....no noise or vibration...won`t loosen up and chances are never break.it one of those things that people over engineer and it doesn`t need to be....mark
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awww man!!!! i never thought about it replacing the luv that means it also replaced the isuzu pup!...now im bummed
acually it`s been a really good truck.it`s a SS model so it has the better suspension,not sure about balljoints but larger swaybar,stiffer shocks and springs.other than the rear brakes always needing adjusting they seem to be wearing normal.
my cousin who owns a towing company told me broken balljoints are a comon problem he`s always towing them.i just think GM has gotten cheap with the parts that matter most when driving....mark
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damn....now that`s what hotrodding is all about
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ive noticed mainly 80 thru pres. GM cars and s-10 trucks have balljoint problems and yesterday my 94 s-10`s drivers side LOWER balljoint let loose(instant lowrider)
luckly it was in front of my house!!! ...i`ve owned my 68 nova for 15 yrs. and never replaced the lower balljoints,in fact i would go so far as to say they`er original.(always had them checked)
i`ve never seen a 60`s-70`s car with a broken balljoint i know they happen but it`s not a common problem with them.why are the 80`s-up SO inferior to it`s 60`s-70`s counterpart?...is risking lives on an item as important as a balljoint worth saving a few pennies?
i admit i ignored the signs....at 30,000 it started poping and i couldn`t find the problem i had everything checked including the balljoints everything was fine even stopped driving it for a while.turned out to be a bad drivers side shock.now at 85,000 same noise same reactions with the truck everything..."oh it must be a bad shock again i`ll keep driving"
so anyone driving a GM car or s-10 truck with upper and lower balljoints check them often...i do a lot of highyway driving and i go about 80mph on there and i shutter to think what would had happend if it went at that speed.
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well that`s just great....
i guess one more infomercal to watch when i can`t sleep -
im thinking about coilovers and ran a search...and im interested in the strut pin removal tool.how can i get one?...mark
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what type are these rims...i have them on my 72 240 but i can`t find them anywhere.i`d like to look into a set for my 73 240.....thanks mark gold center rims
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it`s not that AC plugs suck,it just depends what motor they are going in.
GM...AC
crys/dodge...Champions
ford....autolite/motorcraft (same thing)
imports...NGK
ive tried different make plugs and have found the make the factory uses is the best.
keep in mind this is what ive found for performance motors...for instance Autolite plugs won`t last a day in my big block nova but will last a long time in my STOCK 72 240z automatic
and they both take the same plug.......mark
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im a chicken also!!!! i know two people that had it done (both women by the way...i know doesn`t help my case)and everything worked out fine.but i still think eyesite is too important too mess with unless it totaly gone to the point of disabllity.just becaulse there`s a malfuntion doesn`t mean it`s broke.....besides women dig a guy in glasses.
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hotrod did something like that a long time ago to a caddy stripped down to the frame.it had something to do with a highschool auto shop class.ran early 12`s
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thanks scottie
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a couple weeks ago you calulated my rear wheel horsepwr to be 262 from my time of 12.9 @105...im just wondering would my new time of 12.69 @105 on drag radials change the horse calulations...thanks mark
on bad... 
off good....ok i understand that..but im thinking i might have mine wired wrong becaulse i don`t see a problem.
....although some say im already there.... 
sorry still a little angery.....mark
...having all 4 balljoints replaced along with 2 tie rods and adjuster,lower A arm bushings,backing plate and alingment....all for 550-600 
when she told me the price i didn`t expect to pay that much...becausle i can do the work myself, i just don`t have a ball joint press and i need the truck for vacation in a week...so i talked to the mechanic and everything he said sounded possable...so i guess it`s better that it went a 5-10mph instead of 70-80mph....could have cost me a lot more.. 
mark
...i`ve owned my 68 nova for 15 yrs. and never replaced the lower balljoints,in fact i would go so far as to say they`er original.
clutch driven automatic
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
for some reason im intriged by this idea.it`s like the best of both worlds.the launch of dumping the clutch and fast shifting of an auto and then the direct drive of the clutch at top end....TCI makes it for the powerglide for dirt track...but i haven`t seen a set up for a turbo 350....it`s not a new idea some of the racers did it in the 50`s...i think it`s a cool idea from a racers veiw point, it would be much better than say a 10" 3500 stall!!!!...at the track launch at 3500-4k then drive normal on the street home instead of driving 3500 at 30mph!!!....opinons anyone?.......mark