LeX

i picked up my car with a good bit of rust for a price of $1k which i considered a steal. Car came with good motor (supposedly rebuilt, but it's leaking oil somewhere so i guess not) the engine does run fine though. battery tray area gone rocker rust on both sides (one side significant) big dent on rear passenger side fender frame rails repaired ghetto style but solid one small hole under driver seat but as a plus it came with tons of performance handling suspension etc parts. I'd say that car doesn't look that bad... in the SE for $200 you would be in heaven to get that.. I see cars way worse than mine go for 1k, most Z's on craigslists over here are 6500-10k

car came out of the paint shop today! for what I paid for EVERYTHING it looks fantastic. It's not perfect and i still have paint/body things to do myself but overall they did a good job and didn't cost me much at all in the long run. Just need to take it back to fix a few small things. Will post pics when I can get a camera bear in mind i have tons of hail damage on the car LOL so i couldnt afford to get that all fixed, you can see lots of the dings with the new paint job, but i love the paint it's fantastic... Car was in shop for paint, left and right rocker repairs, front of hood repair, repair of rear dent and quarter panel

honestly that doesn't look serious... of course there could be frame rail and battery tray area rust not shown (more than likely) but from the pictures that looks better than most Z's you see, and way better than those in the SE where I live . Might as well check for hatch rust as well as fender rust

After having a 75 280z with rb20det and having to sell it due to financial reasons, I had to eventually make it back into the Z game. the first Z car needed help with the motor that I never was able to solve with the time I had. As well as not running right it needed body repairs and paint = $$$ =========================== and then the current 280Z. I finally got it into the shop and it's getting rust repairs and paint (this whole project is on a tiny budget, so i'm waiting to see how it turns out. The car still has the battery tray area totally gone so that needs new metal, as well as minor aches and pains on the underbody, but otherwise it will be totally solid and with a new paint job (R33 skyline dark gray pearl) well thanks for stopping by. In the works for the Z is a turbo kit (i already have most of the parts, just not most of the money) Will post pics of the Z when it's painted and fixed up, due by late this month

How recently ? It could have been Dave's car... his is primer... but is much much faster than that car.... he has black mesh wheels and a tuned rb25 setup... coulda been him?

does MSA sell or will i have to just go on ebay? I have all my chrome trim except the piece on the door below the window. Is there a good place to find some? Car looks weird without it

I have a rb20det stock fuel pump sitting around from a previous setup. Does anyone know if this will flow enough for a L28E-T setup with holset turbo, 450cc injectors @ 1 bar? Don't want to buy another pump if I don't need to

I have the HY35 (HE351) and i have seen this downpipe on ebay. My turbo did not come with the turbo elbow (guy couldn't find it, and auction didn't specify it came with it, and it looks like they rarely pop up for around $35+ship on ebay) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Ram-Cummins-5-9-HX40-Holset-Downpipe-Kit-4_W0QQitemZ330193555808QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like it will connect right to the outlet. Do you think it would fit reasonably well, and i could have it rebent to mate to my 3" exhaust, or does it look like the wrong length/size completely so it wouldn't have a chance of working? my turbo does have the correct 4" v band outlet, but didnt come with the elbow

i wish i did! my digi cam got stolen a couple weeks ago. It actually came on the car when I got it, seems to have a custom mount perhaps welded onto the strut tower? not necessarily the best way but i guess it works

i know the car is ugly but it's a project car. Lots to be done. Also got the sportmax 002 225 50 16 Fuzion ZRI

yeah definitely going to run megasquirt now, seems the only smart choice.

what do you guys think would be a safe level of boost to run on the street, 93 octane tuned properly with the above mods. I was thinking a max of 1 bar boost (14-15psi ish) but some folks have told me they ran 18 on theirs. 18 just seems a bit high on a non turbo but it is the 8.3:1 comp one.. i know the pistons aren't so much the issue as the rings and seals and all that junk. What do you guys think

yeah ur right! i will get one stuck in as soon as i take it over for tuning

yeah i didnt buy anything new that i didnt need to buy... parts locally or from ebay to get the best deals... but no cheap parts. I do have a N/A motor as well. I don't know if your car uses dished pistons or flat top but I have the 8.3:1 compression dished pistons and i'm going to run the N/A block. If your HP goals are moderate then the N/A block is fine, but the more cost effective way would be to find a turbo block. There are NONE around GA just whole turbo cars that are 2500ish

right modification of oil pan i would include with fittings and etc i suppose

I already have the turboback, turbo valve cover, no muffler on car, 3" resonated with tip (mufflers kill the amazing Z car sound ) already have FMIC , already painted some engine parts with engine enamel . Having the emanage i suppose control fuel adn everything else. Have a fuel pressure gauge and already have an intake. I also have a fuel cell and have newer fuel filter

everything with a price by it has already been purchased for the price listed. I might get an emanage ultimate... I can get one installed for 425

i'm no expert but i'll just answer one part. 5k you can easily do this no problem at all. I'm at $1400 for all components except intercooler piping, tuning, and oil fittings/lines

not sure exactly what year T5 i had on my old car but had stage 3 6 puck clutch and thing gripped like a mother. This was with RB20det stock boost with FMIC and 3" turboback though. Nothing crazy (75 280z)

Doing a budget but effective turbo build. Let me know what you guys think and what could be improved keeping it as a budget build motor: L28E , 78 , rebuilt with OEM parts 8.3:1 compression, dished pistons $0 turbo: holset hy35w (he351) @ 1 bar boost $325 injectors: RX7 redtop 450cc injectors $40 fuel pump: MSD inline $100 fuel rail: Pallnet O-ring style $110 FMIC: 24x12x3 core , 2.5 in and out $65 Full Engine Management (MEgasquirt or Emanage or other) $300? 3" full turboback exhaust $275 STI boost gauge $40 non EGR intake manifold $50 stock turbo exhaust manifold $50 turbo valve cover (+30 hp) $10 eclipse 1G Blow off Valve $34 TOTAL COST NOT INCLUDING i/c piping, tuning, fittings and lines $1399 looking for a safe street tune for 93 octane. What do you guys think is the most boost i can run safely for the street with a good tune. I was thinking 1 bar to be safe-ish. -Alex

thanks a lot Paul. Definitely helped me out -Alex

great thanks for the heads up! I think i will just stick with some supra injectors then for the pallnet. I was thinking of getting the stock turbo 7MGTE ones which are 440-460cc i forget.

i'm looking to get some injectors and i will be buying a pallnet fuel rail o ring style. I dont know how to identify injector type just by looking. Would these work?> seem like a good bet. 660cc for turbo setup i will be running

pics for reference! DSM 1g and blitz ss

I am looking to run no more than 15psi on my motor. I am looking into a 1g DSM factory BoV (cheap) or a Blitz SS BoV. Is there really any point in going for the blitz and spending the extra money or would that only be important if I was running higher boost levels. On my last car i had rb20det and ran stock valve and it sounded great and seemed fine