Orangetang

AFAIK, the front track is roughly 13 mm wider than the rear to begin with, and with all things being equal; yes they will stick out further. That said, there DOES seem to be more fender overhang in the front than the rear, so it might actually look equally flush, if that's what you mean. At least it's the case with my car. I havn't measured my track other than to estimate an alignment, so I can't say if I'm close to stock or not. -edit... Since you have the spacers and rims, why not just see for yourself.

Well that was my thought vs the 1500 watt conversion, not feasible. If ~300 watt would do it, I think it could work. Way too busy at work lately to worry about it for now, if I make any headway I'll post some results, but I'm almost feeling a dash pull at this point would make sense. That or, rather than adding a heating element to the heater blower box, just retrofitting an actual cab heater in its place.

Interesting build... I think the wats and L6's are better left to the Japanese segment though! The PO must have had a Datsun -edit Looks like a Datsun steering wheel and replica seats too..., R200 Diff!? I wonder if all the running gear was swapped over. Even the dash has a Datsunesque layout. Weird car.

And I thought I was red-necking it! It's inspected, the core just went last week and I do drive the car on public roads, so I'd like to have some form of defogger. As funny as I'd like it would be to drive around with hairdryers (not that much unlike MCM's leaf blower supercharger) running in the cabin, I don't think I could tolerate that I was thinking more along the lines of a couple of these As I just realized a normal hairdryer would probably be about the minimum requirement and draws around 1500 W... Maybe not, I'd need 10 of these.

Maybe this is a poor idea, as I haven't found anything in the forums.... This thought originated as somewhat of a band-aid for my leaking/disconnected heater core, until I have the dash out. That said, maybe it doesn't need to be a band-aid at all. Would it be a waste of time to build a bracket and mount a couple of ~150W heater elements inside the blower motor outlet, wired on a relay to the fan control switch? I don't have AC, and would only ever require just enough heat to keep the windshield from fogging on a chilly morning. Or, even scrap the blower motor altogether and just mount a cab heater under the glove box and duct it into the vent system? How many watts of heat would more than likely be required, and might the physical interference with an already under-powered blower motor even make it feasible? Or, I could suck it up and pull the heater core, but it looks like a disaster to get to, even with the glove box and blower out of the way. Running the Bosch alternator conversion with internal regulator. I'd imagine it has enough jam for this, given I have no stereo or other accessories.

Where are you finding real wats for ~$350 a wheel? I want that link. Sizing tires for my 17x8.5 RKR-Fs because I couldn't find a wat for under ~$650 / rim. Atara does however only offer an offset usable on a flared 240 though, which is pretty limited.

I should have been more specific. The only play in the mustache bar is where the differential cover bolts to it. The studs have room to orbit inside of the mustache bar. The bushings are poly and give nearly any play.

I'm finding my welded R180 will rock back and forth at the two studs that secure it to the mustache bar, even on jackstands at an idle. It seems the holes in the mustache bar are pounded out, or the studs should have a wider collar on them to prevent this. Tightened them up as snug as I could last night, will see what happens over time. If this is just a fiction fit sort of design, I think I'll make a modification or two. I still have relatively large amounts of play with the on/off throttle. Suspension is new, bushings are new, tranni mount is new, diff mount is a new RT style sandwiched against a prothane bushing. Wheels, tires, brakes, all new. Diff does not move at all if raised with a jack, and I can't physically move it side to side or otherwise by hand. Driveshaft front ujoint has significant play though... Is it normal to have lateral play in the mustache bar?

Ecsta is just a line of tires, not unlike Ziex, Proxes, etc. Mine are the AST, all-season-sportyish directional. I can't comment on whether they're good or not as I havn't really 'driven' on them. It's still cold out here and they break loose in 2nd gear, maybe when it's warmer they would hold better. They were the only tire I could find in that size for a reasonable price and I had to order them from the US, that was my only purchase decision. A 225 is a little stretched on a 9" rim. Check tyrestretch.com and willtheyfit.com for (guessing url) images and an idea of how they sit.

Hoffmann, I have a set of 15x9-0 shaks wrapped in 225/50R15 Ecstas that don't fit over my brakes. Need them gone to pay for 17 ' s. PM if interested.

BTW, I looked into TTT before going with the AZC front set, and found the shipping to Canada a far more reasonable rate than from TTT. Enough so to make the decision for me.

X2. AZC preferred though

Is anyone successfully running an AZC drop/shortened steering knuckle with the tie rod end sitting inside a wheel < 17" diameter, or must a person choose a backspacing to keep the rod end outside of the rim? I feel I've scoured the forum fairly well but haven't found any photos or comments about these drop spacers crowding on rim lips. My 15x9-0 Shakotans required a 1" hub adapter to cooperate with my new rod end location. I'm hoping a 16" wheel will have enough clearance to sit the knuckle inside the wheel rather than moving the wheel outward. Is there any issue with doing what I'm hoping to accomplish?

Even with a 1" spacer behind these wheels the Shakotan dust caps won't come close to fitting. The factory dust caps fit fine though, just not very attractive.

Weather is a little better today, I took the car for its first actual drive since the new bits and it's actually pretty decent. The clutch shudder is definately just the temperment, it engages and disengages perfectly, like a new car to me. I think when the mounts show up, any further 'slop' in the driveline will be eliminated. With the RT mount and new bushings I think I'm just going to FEEL a lot more of what's going on under there. Hook-up on smooth roads is insane.

FYI, just ordered new engine and trans mount and clutch slave hose from rock auto, shipping included, for under 40 bucks.

I have similar issues that remain to exist after my 1st drive on new struts/springs, new RT diff mount, new engine, clutch, flywheel, disc brakes, wheel bearings, urathan bushings everywhere, etc. etc. I retained the old driveshaft and half-shaft universal joints as they seem totally fine, as did the wheel bearings, however I had new ones pressed into the new strut bodies. I'm going to guess the whirring noise is your differential. Mine is pretty rough, I actually welded it solid and noted it being exactly the same as before... so it must be the bearings. Anything over 60 MPH before the welding and there was a LOT of rear end vibration and noise. The roads are snow covered, so I can't do a comparision at this time. As far as the clunking when you're letting the clutch out, but it's fine when you're in gear... I'm not sure. I did noticed when I changed the transmission output seal that there is a LOT of lateral play in the input and output shafts. I have no idea how much is normal. I've read that as long as there isn't in and out play, it's fine to be bale to move the shaft from side to side. Maybe somone can chime in on that. I have a 4 puck racing style clutch now, which I thought may also be a contributing issue since it's kind of an an and off application, not a slipping one, and I have a total of about 10 km on it. All of that said, I couldn't find my new tranni mount, so the one installed is seperated completely at this time. I'll try using a ratchet strap to suck the tranni up into the mounts crossmember and backup, to see if it eliminates any of the clunk... If anyone knows about the tranni shaft play, OR what causes the jerkiness that contributes to the clunking when letting the clutch out in reverse, let us know!

Still a work in progress, but here is my Series I, sitting on GC coilovers,AZC front arms and knuckles, Wildwoods front and rear and 15x9 Shakotans. Power provided by a Rebello 3.0 L through 48 mm SU carbs making a peak of 280 HP and 270 ft/lbs. Currently a balmy 30 below outside, so I havnt been able to stretch the new legs yet

I have recently had my zTherapy rebuilds bored out to 48 mm for my new engine. Looking for a flush fitting 48 mm ID velocity stack solution for them. Cheers

Not the best of pics, but here are 15x9 -0 on 1" spacers with a little camber. Wider than I'd like... but easier than all other alternatives, assuming I can massage a little room for these things to turn left and right out of the fender, tension rods, and control arms... Felt like the 1/4" spacer would work to clear the wilwood calipers, but the tie-rod issue isn't going away so easily. As is, the brakes are still a tight fit, and the tie-rod is about 3/16" from the rim lip...

Also, if it isn't ordered yet, look at the AZC stuff instead. Keep in mind the LCAs include ball joints and tension rods. Their steering knuckles are shortened and include the drop spacer. If you're set on the TTT stuff, give er. I think their automated shipping charge of several hundred dollars is why I opted out.

Well, if you already know that 15s probably will not clear your lowered tie rod ends, you should plan on going with a narrower rim to account for the spacers or offset you'll need. I'm playing guinea pig again, waiting on 1" adapters and 1/4" spacers to arrive for a test fit to see what is really needed. The issue is, you might end up running >1" of spacing, and require flares. It's possible the T3 bump steer spacers would work since they're not as tall, but they're also going to be bolted to longer knuckles, so they might REALLY not fit. The good news is, you can just remove them if they don't fit until you figure out a rim fitment. With my zero offset rim, the front and rear wilwood calipers hit the inside of the wheel. A zero offset wheel will not clear them. When you pull everything apart and do your wheel bearings, you might aswell install some new longer studs. I wouldn't bother with the nismo 50mm ones though. That's a little overkill for what you'll be running. S14 studs should be PLENTY long.

Look great. Are you on height adjustable coilovers? 2.5" springs?

Looks like 1 1/8" spacer would be the minimum to clear a tie rod end mounted to AZC knuckles. I'm tempted to order a set of 4x114.3mm wheel adapters just to see how it sits, but I'm thinking it'll look pretty stupid. This is with a 0 offset 15x9 shakotan. To clear Wilwood discs, I think 1/4" would be fine, so the other option is to lose the knuckles and see if the stock ones fit, or drill out the AZC knuckles a bit so the rod end ball joint sits higher. This 15" rim isn't a great fit for aftermarket brakes or for use with LCA drop spacers, it appears.

Yes, the knuckles have a built in spacer, dropping the rod end about 1". That would be awesome. I'm still stuck in the field, and wouldn't mind getting some spacers in he mail, rather than getting these measurments from home.