rc's240z

Traco remote oil filter adapter FOUND! one of the last, and more difficult parts to find! FOUND!! See you guys at California Speedway this weekend!!

pete paraska has a web site that covers the ohms of resistance relative to your needs. he is a member of Hybrid and posts all the time...

Ron Davis makes a great aluminum crossflow radiator built for Datsun Z cars, I have one and it works very well. You can contact Les Canaday at Classic Datsun 760-940-6365 regarding these radiators. Ron

Hey John, I bought his original BRE motor and Solex Mikuni carbs. Mark Belrose is a great guy and has been a great help to my cause..

Go get those Porsches/Jags/Lotus's in VARA and teach them a lesson!! "Datsun, every thing else is second!!" I will keep you posted on my progress. It will be fun to be out with you guys soon.. I will probably run both VARA and HSR events, but i have ton of work to do first. Ron

Well it will be stock displacement, 2.4 60 over, Slover modified Head, 12 to 1 compression, close ratio over drive 5 spd and R190 w/ 4.44's so it will go pretty well. Most of the racers in my area are running some big motors, (Mistress motorsports 3.0L and John Coffey 2.8L injected) so if i can get John Morton to drive it i would have a chance... The Goal is to have the car ready for the Z Car National show next year in LA. Les Canaday is in charge of the track day which will be at Willow Springs (not the streets of willow, but the big track). He working on getting quite a contigency of early racing Z's there along with most of the original race teams. It should be a great show!! Vegas was awesome a few years ago!! Anyway, i will show it for a year or so then go out and play..cars like this are meant to be driven, not garaged.

Yes I do have the "how to modify Datsun, etc". The actual cage was very simple in the #46 car, really it was more of a roll bar. Les Canaday had a BRE roll bar out of the Ontario Pace car (fabricated by BRE) and it is very simular. I will be making a copy of that original bar and then adding some additional protection as the original car did not have, a full cage. I think that the photos that you are referring to are of Bob Sharp's Z. He had a much more extensive roll cage in his early Z. Ron

For some time i have been collecting parts to build a BRE Z replica, today I moved my gutted 240z to the welding shop (PDK FAB) and spent 5 hours cleaning, and mocking up the drivers side race seat. next weekend will see the beginning of the roll cage and fabrication of the fuel cell. Photos to be added soon!! I want to thank PDK Fabrication for their tireless help in making this a reality. Les Canaday of Classic Datsun for his professional advise, his effort to find the right parts for my restoration, and the introductions to Pete Brock, John Morton and Jerry Mason.

got it! thanks... Ron

ZBombay, I did not receive photos of your rear hatch?!? can you email me photos...Thanks so much

Sorry knowbody would pony up for one, they would have cost around $900.00

PDK are MY Neighbors!! Call Mark at 760-724-0144. The brace works great. My car was the mule for it you can see addtional photos at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1229&password=&sort=7&thecat=998 See all the photos in my gallery, there are about 20 photos of the strut brace on a couple different cars. Ron Carter

Very sanitary work, please copy me on your visio wiring diagram. Thanks! Ron rc240z@cox.net

DOM Tubing is a must, you can contact PDK Fabrication for this solution. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1184&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

If you are looking for a true racing seat, i would suggest ultrashield seats, simular to a kirkey with better fittment for road race applications.

I dont meen to be rude BUT why have you chosen this location to install speakers? what do you hope to gain?

well, your not going to like my answer in regards to speakers behind your seats. It is probably the worst place to put speakers in a Z car for sound quality. you can put a sub there but it is a poor choice due to the fact that you want to be as far away from your subwoofer as possible. Example: Have you noticed that cars with lots of bass have better impact and definition about 10 to 15ft away from the car and sitting in the car? the bass is loud but feels more like air moving around you than rich tones of bass? this is due to bass wavelength maturity. a 30hz note sounds the best when you are physically 30 to 35 ft away from the source. Sorry about the rant...the best place for speakers in a Z are in the kick panels, for sound quality and imaging. Imaging: imaging is an illusion not unlike a magic trick...Good imaging will create a sound stage in front of you, you will be able to close your eyes and hear where the different vocals and insruments are placed across the front of your dash. This is achieved by placing the speakers as close to equal distance as possible, since we sit off center in most cars this is practically impossible. idealy (for imaging) mounting speakers where your headlights are would create the best image in most cars, but very impracticle. That being said with practice and music that you know very very well it is possible to experement with speaker placement in your car to create sound stage across the front of your dash...

I have built custom kick panels for years, and built in several different solutions in a 240z. the difficulty in a Z is that there is very little room to build back into for your kickpanel compared with newer vehicles, so anything you build will stick out quite a bit. To create good imaging i suggest that you build a soft enclosure out of neoprene sealed with your midrange and tweeter mounted on a teardrop shaped piece of particle board. move it around untill you get what your looking for and that will give you an idea of the panel you will need to fabricate. you may want to consider a co-axial solution as well. Focal speakers are great speakers, but by my recollection they are very fragile. good luck and let me know if i can help you further.

Guys this is really a racing part, it is not designed for HVAC. It would most likely fit a 280. Our mold is based off of a 72 dash however. The other difficult thing here is that we would need to see an order for 10 of the fiberglass or 10 CF dashes, i can't mix and match based on the difference of construction of both forms of the dash. In order to make these affordably it is necessary to make them in an assembly line fashion. Thanks! Ron

new replacement consoles are available presently from a number of sources, we were thinking that a CF console would be cool to go with the dash...but alas not enough interest...Ask Mike Kelly ZF Racing...anyway, a fiberglass dash is less money, but we will not consider doing them unless we can make a run of 10 or more. It's not worth the effort or the money we would have to charge to make just one. Find 10 people who will pony up and you'll get your fiberglass dash, copies will run around $600 to $700 a copy. Ron

see my previous posts for pricing of CF Dash BTW, did you purchase your strut bar in northern california? at Zfest

First of all there is no real difference in weight, the fiberglass one we took around to several shows last year weighs about the same as the carbon one. the difference is in how they are manufactured. because of the clear resin on the CF dash it is necessary to manufacture several different sections and connect them together so that the Cf will look correct and not ratty. the fiberglass can be molded as one piece, MUCH easier to make and less of a time investment. For a street application it would be possible to install vents for the defroster and the drivers and passenger side of the car, however, remember that none of the infrastructure is there to mount the factory heatercore, vent tubes or blower motor etc.

the carbon dashes are much more difficult to make, but look "killer". If you have seen CF hoods, well they look like that. there are generally a few small flaws but they are minor. The most difficult part of the CF dashes is that they are 6 to 7 pieces molded together. the shape of the factory dash is very difficult to reproduce. it will replace the dash and the metal trim bezel around the top of the dash. They are a copy of a 70-73 dash. So if you have a 280 this could be a tricky install. the dash is designed as a RACE part, which means no heater vents, no glove box and aftermarket guages. It weighs less than 5 lbs (factory dash is over 35 lbs) and installs to the factory locations. 10 prepaid orders and you will have a rare CF dash. I have a bunch of pictures at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1820&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 w/o popup adds. I will talk to Mark this weekend...I am sure pricing will be $800 to $900 each. Ron

hi guys, I can answer a number of those questions, with a minimum order of 10 dashes we could make a limited run of dashes. As far as durability, fiberglass and carbon fiber will definately outlast a factory dash with NO maintenance. the difficulty is the mold...the first mold we used was dammaged after our last run. Because we got minimal response, we dropped the project. Information we recieved was that it was expensive and didn't have a glove box...If you are interested pony up your dollars and tell us "PDK" you are interested. I will push for making a run of dashes. By the way PDK makes and sell really cool strutbars for Z cars too. Ron rc240@cox.net

Nicely done, i would like to see additional pictures and installation on a Z. I am interested... email me. rc240z@cox.net