rc's240z

If you are looking for a decent auto x tire that will last on the street, the Toyo RA-1 seems to be a pretty decent tire that will get you 10K miles if treated nicely on the street.

Good question, it could be to increase velocity....When you put a bend in any tube it creates resistance equivalent to extending the length of the tube. This shape could be used to combat that resistance??

Okay, i am not familiar with that filter....I think you have done the right thing.

the "ramflow" kit that you are referring to? what brand is it? ITG?

what would you like to know? The cage was done by PDK Fabrication, http://www.pdkfabrication.com/ PDK did some great work very quickly and very reasonably priced. The fuel cell is an ATL "well cell" (12 gallon) with a few cool ATL add-ons, a surge tank, aluminum top plate and electric fuel sender. Props to the guys at ATL as they made me a great deal.... Anyway I would be more than happy to cover the rest of the details off line feel free to email me at rc240z@cox.net. thanks, [/url]

My car is being media blasted as we speak and will be back in a few weeks to do some finish welding, I will have more photos when that is done. You can see what I have done to this point at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=932&cat=500 my photos are scattered within my gallery, there are about 6 pages or so of photos.

Thank you for the clarification John. If you seam weld the entire chassis vs. seam weld 1 inch leave a 1 inch space and seam weld 1 inch etc. (which I refer to as stitch welding), the area adjacent to your continuous seam weld where heavy stress is applied to your chassis becomes brittle (in the process of welding) and will crack, by stitch welding, as explained by John above, you are spreading out the stress applied to the chassis while re-enforcing the overall structure. This is the basic reasoning for spot welding structural members on automobiles together. "Stitch" welding is basically doing a better job of holding your chassis together and adding strength without creating a brittle structure. The weld itself wont break, the steel adjacent to the weld will... "Stitch welding" is a messy crappy job that is further made difficult due to the imperfections in the steel on a 30 year old car. The end result is worth it however. Any chassis will get worn out, lose a large quantity of structural strength over 30 years. Larger swaybars, springs, better tires, bad roads and aggressive drivers will shorten the life of your chassis. Typical issues of a worn out chassis: 1)Your radiator keeps coming apart, your radiator is bolted solidly in place and you keep pulling one side or the other apart. BTW, I suggest a floating mount for anyone serious about racing their Z. 2)Cracks in the frame rails above your front swaybar mount. 3)Tell-tail cracks in the chassis above the quarter window where the car is leaded together. 4) Cracks or structural dammage to the TC box area. And I am sure there are many others... I will get off my soap box now Hope this helps...

okay, I would look to strengthening the front swaybar mount on the frame rails. There are a couple of ways of doing so. PDK Fab can supply you with their front swaybar frame supports that require no welding that will add strength to that area. Our strut brace is a bolt in part, but it is not descreet...but is modular. So parts could be removed or omited depending on how descreet an installation you are looking for. Unfortunately most modifications for chassis strength require some support added to the car and most frequently that means welding... I would not suggest seam welding, stitch welding will add lots of strength without compromising your chassis, which seam welding could do. Good luck!!

All good ideas, I have seen Johns car and know the time and research that he has put into his car... We have found that for a "bolt in application" that our strut bar solution makes a huge difference in handling, by supporting the strut towers from twisting, adding a subframe connector to front sway bar mount, and cross bar to tie the strut towers together see attached link "A" below. You will notice that we use two supported pickup points on the firewall so that you can push your motor back as far as possible for say a V8 conversion, and that our bar ties into supported sections of the firewall for better rigidity. Link "A" : http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/240%20front.htm A step beyond this is a welded installation. That effectvely would allow you to do the same thing see link "B": Link "B" : http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7456&password=&sort=2&thecat=500 I will appologize in advance for the popups on Link "A", please feel free to examine my other photos on link "B"

There are a few ideas that come to mind. You can stitch weld the entire chassis, I would look at the area behind the front fenders there is a triangular section that can be re-enforced by stitch welding. I also suggest that you strengthen the area where your front swaybar mounts to the frame rails if you run a larger than stock swaybar. The rear wheel wells can be stitch welded behind the factory panels too. All of this will help strengthen the Chassis of you Z. Hope this helps...

Zero, Well it goes without saying that you should fix your car floorpans and frame rails before adding a roll cage. If you looked at my photos you will see that i have tied all the suspension components together including the front swaybar, front and rear strut towers. I hope that that helps.

Just read your notice and can't make it this time around. Will you put me on your email list for your next BBQ. Thanx,

Dave, Do you know where this car is? or are these photos you have found on line and saved? 6928683.jpeg 09-Feb-2002 07:51 75k 6928689.jpeg 09-Feb-2002 07:52 70k

there are a whole bunch of photos of my roll cage in my gallery, here is a link to one of the pictures, please feel free to look around, as there are a number of photos that are spread out across my gallery. You will see photos with the preliminary installation of my fuel cell, racing seats and roll cage. My roll cage ties into the front and rear suspension mounting points. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7454&password=&sort=3&thecat=500

Your right, I will start my own thread.

Update on the fiberglass dash, Okay I was up talking to our fiberglass guy Yesterday. He will be pulling the first Dash off our mould this week. I will look at it later in the week and make the final determination to weather it is good enough to sell. Provided it is, and I do expect it to be. I will have pricing at that time and be able to quote you guys for a Group Buy, so start getting the word out now. IF you want one it will be necessary to pony up in the very near future. I am looking for a group buy number between 5 to 10 dashes and to make a run of them. IF you are interested contact me via email with your full contact information. Thanks, Ron

Well, it depends on what you are doing with the car. Our dash is a race part. Contact me off this list via email for more details.

Thanks David, got some good shots keep in mind that this was our very first dash done and our new ones will be profesionally done by the same guys that do fiberglass for Classic Datsun. That is the black fiberglass that we will be using, and that is the dash that is going into my car.

sure.

PDK will be offering a black fibrglass dash, paintable etc. I will be checking with our supplier again tomorrow. It has been made from the same mould that the dash in the picture above was made. We are still working out pricing for this item. Again, I am sorry for the delay as several of you have asked for pricing.

Yeah, probably...I should quantify this, it was eight years ago...

You got to be over 25, a good driving record and have a cool $400.00 a day plus mileage...

The #46 car has a white engine compartment, it is a white car with red blue and black. The november 1970 road and track shows the engine compartment on the cover in color, with an article all about the car inside. I hope that helps.

My best man rented a viper for me for my bachlor party. All I can say is wow, it's been eight years and I still remember it like yesterday...

Areas of the country are different, organizations are different...there are a number of different variables. My suggestion would be to speak with Les Canaday of Classic Datsun. He is very involved with vintage racing on a national scale. 760-940-6365. In Southern California there are several groups including VARA, TCRA, HSR, NASA and others. Some are very specific to what you can and cant run others are less interested in the authenticity of your car and more concerned about your capability as a driver.