rc's240z

Thanks Z-Rex, well it turns out that one of my neighbors down the street is Don Devendorfs God Son. I am sure he would be interested in the photos and I am always looking for ideas. Note: the "Petty" bar installed through the center of the car. Best holiday Wishes!

I would apreciate as many photos as you can send me. Thanks! rc240z@cox.net

I think if you shop around a bit that you can find a better price on an aluminum radiator. Motorsport is a good resource but i would look to Ron Davis Radiators. They offer a bolt-in solution that will be substantially less expensive than the Motorsport offering and should work as good if not better. My understanding is that a cross-flow radiator works better than a conventional top and bottom tank radiator. I suspect that there will be a larger gain with the aluminum radiator. http://www.rondavisradiators.com/

Yes, the Fiberglass dash is a Huge weight savings. Good luck getting under 2K lbs!!

Amir!! Nice Job!! the dash looks awesome!! Ron

No worries, just clarification. I will be looking forward to those pictures!!

Demon, Amir purchased one of our prototype dashs and there are a few details that I would like to clear up: 1) We told Amir that it was not ready for prime time and that it was rough. 2) It is white. The reason it is white was to find the imperfections, correct them and remake our mould off of the corrected piece. Our standard run will be black, some colors are available if you are interested. 3) Amir had to have this dash and he had to have it right away. He was not willing to wait for the first finished run. We have been delayed in our production because we sold him one of our protype dashes. That aside, I cant wait to see his dash installed in his car, I am sure it will look great!! Amir be sure to forward pictures as soon as you have it installed!!

there are a few more in my gallery including the CF one we attempted. I can see about making a CF one again out of our mould but it will run at least $1200 to make and will have sections that are blacked out where you cant see the carbon. We will have some more photos shortly as we are fixing a few imperfections in our mould and will be shipping these very popular items in the next couple of weeks. I suggest that you contact Mark at PDK and let them know that you want one as they will be a limited run.

fiberglass is $400.00 weighs less than 5lbs and looks great. It should fit your 280 fine.

i dont believe that there is any difference in the location of where the gauges are on a 280 vs 240

how about a black fiberglass one?

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7635&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Photo of my dash so far & Mark Sr. with PDK Fabrication

I believe Rebello Racing offers a SS exhaust. Possibly Stahl Headers too...but i dont think either one of these vendors offer a solution for a turbo application.

http://www.atlfuelcells.com/

Bushings, swaybars, spring rates all tie together. I would suggest that you see the guys at top end performance. They are up in your area and should be able to help you sort out your handling issues. Just dont buy their strut bar...PDK fabrication's strut brace is the only way to go. Not that I am biased or anything...lol

My understanding is that if you are running street modified that you can run our complete solution. Since our bar is a modular solution you can remove the parts that would not be considered legal in your class. Since I do not have the specifics for each class handy I cant speak to which class allows what. BSP only allows a cross bar and that was my reference in the comment above.

I am sorry Tomohawk, I came across a little strong. Please understand that requirements set out by the SCCA limit strut braces that you can install on your car to just a cross bar for most autocross classifications. For some cars that is fine. For Datsun Z's they are not. I think that we can agree for most applications that these "aftermarket" strut braces are 95% cosmetic 5% usable. A cross bar is not a universal handling solution for every rice rocket you see, but they all have them.. In my opinion the MSA bar is automotive jewelry, I had one on my car for several years, it made no difference how my car handled. Our friend who made this original posting is looking to make a difference in how his car handles. A bent tubular bar between the strut towers with a single anchor point will make a minute difference in how his car responds. Although given the choice between your solution and MSA's solution, I would prefer your's. You will note that our solution is modular, he can buy the parts he wants. If he wants or build his own solution, he can. Again my first suggestion is to look at other parts of his suspension to fix his problem....

Our strut brace is a good option especially if you are looking to install aftermarket sway bars. Since our strut brace solution includes an easy solution to protect your frame rails. To "fix" your handling question I would be looking at the mechanics of your suspension, your chassis is part of that. Looking at your spring rates and swaybars would be the place to start. Our strut bar will help tie everything together. We see that our solution will add enough support to the front of your Z that it can create an understeer situation, your experience may vary significantly based on the condition of your chassis. Tomohawk: a single bar between the strut towers will do very little to support the chassis of a Z. This is an option but not one I would suggest. For more information please review previous postings on strut braces.

well what your describing is a handling problem. I would suggest that you talk to a suspension specialist prior to spending more money on bolt on parts that will help, but not solve what you are experiencing. there are several threads on line regarding strut bar solutions and what they will do for you and your car. I suggest that you review those posts to make an educated decision.

Dynamat and simular materials are designed to stop metal from ringing. A small amount of Dynamat will go a long way to prevent a resonance problem. Mercedes uses a material like dynamat with an aluminum top coating that does a great job too. This material is available but is very expensive.

You will have to do some work here to make this work. Depending on your cell and it's top plate you will have to drill holes in the top plate of your cell to do this install, cut the internal foam and cut the sender to fit. ATL sells a sender that will work with GM and Ford gauges.

no worries!! cant wait to hear how that new motor does for you.

Forrest, you can install a quick disconnect steering wheel adapter that will give you more room getting in and out of your car!! Sparco makes a really cool bolt-on, indexed, splined adapter but it is $$. High coolness factor though. Hey How 'bout some cool photos of your PDK strutbrace!! lol

Yeah Phil, you need a digital camera!! guess you need to ask Santa..lol

thank phil, I am running a three quart, was wondering how you got that in there... Ron