80LS1T

Has your exhaust rusted? Also did they weld everything together, where they could, or is it clamped together? $300 doesn't seem too bad! I would have thought more. Thanks Guy

I am putting a 93 LT1 and T56 in my 1980 ZX and I was wondering what a full exhaust(-headers) would cost? I would like to run duals to the axle then single to the muffler and out. I would also like the exhuast to have some stainless steel in it so that it doesn't rust. Also how much would it me if I did't use stainless steel? Thanks, Guy

Oh yeah and I have some seat belt recepticles that I could sell you for $10+ S&H. They wont work in my car(1980) I "think" they were out of an 82 ZX or maybe 83? They are black and in very nice condition. Guy

Well that all depends on how good of shape they are. If you have the MSA book you can compare new prices if avalible. I just redid my interior from silver and blue to black and blue. It didn't cost me too much because I sold the silver pieces and I think I only ended up payin about $50 for the black(money spent on black pieces - money from silver pieces = $50) I recovere the vynel pieces though. It really depends on how nice of a piece it is though. For a nice door panel and everything attached I would pay about $75. Those are hard to come by in nice condition though. Good luck! Guy

So it doesn't take a body shop guy to put these on then, just some time and effort! I have both! Just picked up my paint today so I will be painting the engine bay on saturday!!!!!!! Can't wait! But first I need to modify my radiator and fan mount. I will have pics up on Sunday most likely! Thanks a lot! Guy

Can anybody tell me what I need to do when installing the body kit? I don't want any fish eyes or mistakes if I don't have to. Thanks, Guy

I have that plate off of my old engine that you can have for $5 + S&H! Let me know if you want it. Guy ggrenfell18@yahoo.com

Well I have no real knowledge of engine building. That's why I'm asking you guys. I am a student in Tech school for Automotive Technology(2 year assoc. degree) and I am going to have my engine machining class at the end of February and I would like to have everything together so that I can build my engine without having to wait for parts that might not be there in time(6 week class). Here is my set up...tell me what you guys think a good compression ration would be... 58mm TB, block hugger headers with 2.25"dual exhaust till the axle then into 3" single into high flow muffler, #36 bosch injectors, stage II port and polish of heads and intake and port matched runners, LT4 Hotcam kit, MSD 6AL ingnition system, and some computer tuning. The reason for the 11.1:1 CR is that I figured since the LT4's have 10.8:1 I would bump it up a little to get some more power. The reason that I thought I should go with hypers is because most guys say that since I'm not going to SC, Turbo, or use NOS they I should stay with Hypers to avoid as much excessive piston slap as possible. But if I'm going to break pistons then that would be kinda stupid to worry about piston slap. Please clue me in on what an ideal compression ratio would be and what kind HP I should expect with it. Thanks for all the help! Guy

Well I dont plan on driving my car in the rain or wet conditions if I can help it. I have heard good things about the Falken tires though. I will have to look into those 225/45's. Thanks, Guy

I didn't know about that piston shattering thing you described?! I assumed since they made them in 11.1:1 that they would be ok? I am not going to supercharge my engine anytime in the near future or use NOS(that I know of). From what others have said I thought I should use hypers because there is less piston slap. Do you think I should go forged or will these be ok in my LT1? Thanks, Guy

Come on guys! I really need the help here! I gotta order these soon. Guy

So I should get 225/45's or should I get 225/40's? Thanks, Guy

It is very easy. Just but some new pads, take off the 2 caliper bolts, SPIN not push the piston into the bore, place new pads in with som Anti-squeal goop on the back of the pads(optional but recommended in my book), and put the caliper back on and away you go! I learned my lesson about screwing in the caliper piston the hard way. I use a C-Clamp and ended up majorly messing up my left rear caliper. I ended up just replacing both calipers though because all the seals were shot! Guy

Ok how does a set of Falken ZE512 215/45/ZR17? for $400? Guy

You need to just calm down BAlford. What do you think he made that up? I really doubt it! Maybe you should stop making cocky comments and try to contribute to the conversation! Guy

Your link doesn't work...?

I called Thunderracing yesterday and the guy that I talked to said that those are on backorder and he doesnt even know if they are ever going to get them in again!? So if I want them I will have to call COMP CAMS I guess. Guy

Doesn't anybody know this stuff? Guy

Hey now no need to get all fussy! It might not be the cooling capacity although it is a possibility. Just because it solved your problem doesn't mean it will solve his. By the way that idea with 2 heater cores in the air damn is quite the creative set up! Very tricky! and Very Cool!!! That's my $.02

Ok but where can I get them? Guy

No I wont be running over 6500 rpms too often. So I guess I will just replace the bolts. Do I have to balance them out or anything like that? Guy

But I do have the PM rods in my stock engine right now right? The reason I said I was going to recondition them is because I saw some on ebay that said they were reconditioned and fitted with ARP bolts. Should I do anything else to them besides use ARP bolts? Guy

What are ribbits? And what do you mean use bonding material and ribbits? Guy

Oh yeah and what is ring tension? They have standard and low? Thanks, Guy

Well I going to go with KB Hyper. ligh weight pistons for my LT1 with a 11.1:1 CR. I am also going to go with Plamsa Moly rings and the question I have is about the size... I am boring the engine over .030 so when I select a ring size should they be .035 over? Thanks, Guy