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Everything posted by 80LS1T
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Do you have that large gear box on the drivers side? Also you might be using the JTR mounts but you can't put the motor in the JTR POSITION unless you move the firewall.
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No you can't use headers unless they are custom made because of the driver side. The passanger side fits fine. If you have the gear box type of steering then you are in the same boat as I am in! It sucks! I priced a custom header in my area and it would cost about $300-$400 for just the driver side header with a HPC coating! I am using an LT1 and the stock manifolds will fit just fine for now. I am going to get a custom header made sometime in the future but not now because my budget it getting kinda tight! If you do find something thought let us know! Oh and unless you moved the firewall, all 280ZX's are in the Scarb/Hooker/MSA position because the firewall on the 280ZX's is 3" farther forward, so you can't put it in the JTR position unless you move the firewall. Guy
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Are the R200's from the 280Z's the same as the ones from the 280ZXT's? Another words with this work with my R200 out of a 82 ZXT? Guy
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I pulled the heads off my motor and boy am I MAD
80LS1T replied to 383 240z's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Yeah I'm going to have to agree with Shank on this one, those are considered flat tops. Atleast from what I have seen that are called flat tops. I dont think you can have a dished piston and valve relief? What would be the point of the valve relief if the piston is dished? Guy -
old heads-unleaded gas am I looking for trouble?
80LS1T replied to 383 240z's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
All heads form like 68'(I think that was the year maybe it was 66') on have hardend seats. It is just a matter of how far the hardening goes into the head. The older they are the shallower the hardening goes. What year are the heads? If they late 60's early 70's I would either put hardend seats in or just not use them. It sounds like trouble waiting to happen! That's just my opinion though! Guy -
Ok sounds good to me! GAS + HOT MANIFOLD = BAD DAY!!! Guy
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I dont think the reason his bumper is black is because his car is not tuned! It's called buring oil! I really hate it when people make up stupid excusses why there car is a POS! As for can you beat him? I say with the 350+ HP you should be able to run 12's with some good tires! If he has never had it to the track how can he know he can run 13's? Sounds like a "bench racer" to me!! Typical ricer! Guy
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Ok well my engine will be done in about 3 weeks so I am just trying to get some of the "odds" and "ends" squared away! How do you guys figure out drive shaft angle? I know from reading through the achieves that it should be about 1 degree? But what does that mean? Please put it in the simplest terms as possible! I don't get how you measure it either. Also do you measure it with the car on the ground or up on a hoist with the suspension fully at rest/uncompressed? I could really use a pic/drawing if thats possible? Here is what I think you guys mean... Thanks Guy
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Ok I was thinking if I cut the fuel lines down by where the fire wall ends by the frame rails, that I could flare the ends and use rubber hose from there the to connections on the fuel rail and clamp them on??? Will this work or is this a big NO-NO! Remeber this is a fuel injected engine! So the pressure will be about 40 PSI! I would really like to use braided steel lines but my budget is getting really tight right now and I just want something that will work for now. My engine will be done in about 3 weeks so I want to get all these "odds and ends" out of the way! Thanks, Guy
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Ok I got the old parts of the pump out (impellor, seals, bearings, etc). That was really easy with the 55 ton hydraulic press! It only took like 5 minutes! Now I just have to file the housing down and put in that freeze plug! Should be easy. As for a relay... yes I am going to use a relay. I am going to also use a relay for my fan that has a manual control and a temperature activated switch. Thanks for the help guys! Guy
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Well how much HP/TQ is the P.O.S. Honda Civic running? I would say yes but there are no gaurantees!
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Ok I checked and I do have that freeze plug in the box for the water pump! Just need to figure out how to plug that timing cover! Thanks, Guy
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Hmmmmm I will have to check on that freeze plug for the water pump housing? I don't remember seeing one in the box? But it could be there! Also what do you guys use to plug off that extra pipe coming out of the water pump? I think its the one that goes to the TB? All I need is the heater inlet and outlet right!? Thanks, Guy
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Ok let me rephrase the questions... I am updating my 93 LT1 to the 95+ vented style, putting in a CSI electric water pump, and using a Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain set... now what do I need to do to plug off the timing chain cover, water pump housing, and is there anyting I have to do to the block??? And how much can I take off the flywheel when resurfacing it? I had to take off .050" to get it flat! There does that help??? Guy
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Ok well just took down the short block today on my 93 LT1. Here' my questions.... Since I am updating to the 95+ optispark I am also going to use a standard double roller timing chain set,{[edit] electric water pump and LT4 "hotcam"}...What do I need to plug off on the block, timing cover, and water pump? Also what do you guys use for this? Also how much can the LT1 flywheel be machined? I machined mine today but I had to take off a lot of metal to get it flat! I had to tak off about .050! I really don't want to buy a $200 flywheel! If I have to where is the cheapest place to get one??? Thanks! Guy
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Yeah for the driverside header/exhaust manifold you can also use the late model LT1 manifolds. They are D-port exhaust manifolds though. They should still fit on your engine though. As for the engine/tranny mounts if you have any fabrication skills like Greimann said I would make them. I bought mine from MSA for $225 but I know I could have easily made them . I don't know what year of car yours is or if it is a turbo but you should find out what rearend you have in there. If it is an R200 with CV's then your fine in that department but if it is an R180 with U-joints then you should atleast upgrade to SPICER Heavy duty U-joints (I have some for sale if you are interested) However if you plan to up your HP from 350HP then I would start looking for a R200 set up. If you find subframe connectors be sure to let us all know! Like Greimann said most ZX guys just uses strut bars/tri-angleulated stubars. I dont think the rolecage is neccesary for 350HP but it deffinetly doesn't hurt! Never hurts to stiffen the car up! I am going to put one in next year but for now the rollbar in the rear and triangulated strutbars in the front are going to have to do for my 400HP LT1. Take a look at Greimann's and my sites. I think you will find a lot of info on his for sure and maybe some on mine(I am still the process of finishing my conversion!) and be sure to use the search function on here! Guy
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Actually from being in class with this guy for the past 2 years I know that he is a Mr.Know-it-all. Granted he is the smartest in our class, but thats just because he has a memory like you wouldn't beleive. So he remembers all the technical stuff! When it comes to the common sense stuff he is a real dumba$$. You should hear some of the questions he asks! I can't rememer one of them off hand but they just baffle the whole class when he asks such stupid questions (yeah I know there is no such thing as a stupid question but this guy would make you think otherwise!) Another thing I should point out is he is always picking on my friend who isnt't the sharpest pencil in the box but he is still kinda trying to get an education. The thing with my friend is that he expects me and the other guys in the class to let him copy our homework and help in on the tests. I don't do either because I know he wont do anything if I do. I think my friend has an old habbit of copying and is just learning now that you cant copy/cheat your way through life. So this guy is always picking on him for not passing his general educations classes (he passes all of his automotive classes though). I have tried to get a long with this guy but he is always trying to prove how smart he is and it is just plain annoying!(sp?) Guy
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Yeah when I made the poll I had the option for both but it didn't show up after I posted??? He is building a "old" SBC 350. He thinks that he got a great deal for his engine because he got almost all of his parts for like under $250. Oh yeah and he is reusing some pistons and rods that he got for free! I dont think he is balancing the rotating assembly either! I think he is going to be really dissapointed when he gets that engine to gether and puts it in his Firebird. He's not going to have the motor he thought he was building thats for sure! Guy I vote for both too!
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Ok I am rebuilding my 93 LT1 at the tech school that I am attending. Here are the specs on the motor... *Updated Opti-Spark to 95+ Vented style *10.9 KB Hyper Pistons w/ Plasma moly rings *New Hyd. Roller Lifters *LT4 Hotcam Kit *Port and Polish of Heads and Intake *58mm TB *36Lbs Injectors *GM PM Rods *New SFI Fluid Dampner *Rotating Assembly balanced Ok now heres the deal... My parntner and I were taking down the my short block last thursday at school and this other guy in my class comes over to ask about my motor. He's like "whats the big deal about this motor?" So I tell him what makes it different from the first generation SBC's and he's like "oh" So then we started to pull of the old harmonic balancer and I was like don't worry about hurting it (that's what I told my partner) because I am getting a new one. Then this other guy is like "why" and I said because I dont want to risk using that old one on my freshley rebuild motor! He's like "what's wrong with it?" I said "well it's got a 100,000+ miles on it and why should I risk blowing that one up when I can put in a new Fluid Dampner that is 10 times better?" Then after that little discussion we started to pull the timing cover off and I "said dont worry about this either because I have a different one that I have to use with the updated opti-spark unit" Then this guy really start to give me crap! He's like " jesus why didn't you just buy a new motor?" I said "because I won't learn anything if I just buy a motor and stick it in my car!" Then he asked me if I was going to bore the cylinders at school or have someone else do it. I said I was going to and he's like "so your spending all this money on this motor and your going to bore the cylinders here rather than pay the $130 for a shop to do it?? I said "yeah I dont think that make a bigger hole in a piece of metal is that hard!!! Why should I pay for it if we have the equipment to do it here?" He thinks because he had a problem using the boring machine that I am going to! I later found out that he wasn't using it correctly and that it works fine! So is this guy just and @ss or is he just jealous? Guy (Sorry just had to try a poll! )
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Way to go man! Got love it when you beat a $50,000 car! I can just image the look on his face! Ha Ha Ha! What are you running under the hood? Guy
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Do you know the guy who has that 280ZX with the HUGE WING on the deck lid??? Cause if you do can you ask him what the hell he was thinking? That wing is just rediculous! Other than that nice pics! Guy
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Vaccum Line and Fuel lines are NOT the same! If you use a vaccum line for fuel line the gas will turn that piece of hose into mush! I can't beleive that the autoparts store didn't have those sizes??? Keep looking someone has got to have some! Guy
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The guy doing my heads(stock LT1 heads) just sent me an update on how they are coming... "stock the heads topped out at 210int and 174exh, ported with just using your old valves they top out at slightly over 250int and 210exh. I did finally get your test valves in from ferrea today and will be retesting them with the new pro-flo valves, numbers should be up even further. I think im going to settle on a 2.00 int and 1.55 exh for the final sizes." How do these sound for flow numbers??? I have no idea what is good but it sounds like he is getting a lot more flow out of them! Guy
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You can get a header for your car from MSA(http://www.zcarparts.com). They sell for $184.95 and if you want they will coat them for $149.95. Not too bad for a coated header that is all nice and shiny! Guy
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What is the Ford 49? Your not talking about the Ford GT (GT40)? Guy [edit] Sorry didnt see the links!