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Everything posted by 80LS1T
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872079564 I have a 1980 280ZX. And no I don't want to use wheel adapters. Thanks, Guy
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Cost of Port & Polishing of LT1 Heads and Intake?
80LS1T replied to 80LS1T's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Well if gruppy says hes good he must be! Right?! Hey Jeff I am going to email you to let you know what I want do and then you can tell me how much, ok. Thanks Guys! -
high performance/gas mileage trick carb idea
80LS1T replied to a topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Sorry to burst you bubble but I doubt that would work and here's why I dont think it will..... By having a duel carb manifold and only running one carb during "daily driving" you would have a lean mixture in the cylinders farthist from the carb and a rich mixture in the cylinders closest to the carb. And the running race gas in the second carb wouldn't work either cause if you were to run really high compression you would have to run high octane gas all the time to help stop detonation. Like you said if this could have been done it most likely would have been done! That's my $.02 -
Hate to ask but should I get a R200 now and then a R200LSD l
80LS1T replied to 80LS1T's topic in Drivetrain
Yeah I would LOVE to put a Quaife differential in but those are so pricey!!!!!! So I can't just bolt in a R200 without CV joints? Thanks, Guy -
Hate to ask but should I get a R200 now and then a R200LSD l
80LS1T replied to 80LS1T's topic in Drivetrain
Yes I have the R180 with 3.545 gears in it. I have the automatic 1980 280ZX. So yeah I need to upgrade to a R200 or LSD R200. So what do you guys think? Save money and not beat on it for a while and then buy the LSD R200. OR buy the R200 now and take out the sway bar? Then save up for the LSD R200. Thanks!!!! -
First of all I have a 1980 280ZX with T-Tops. I am putting in a 93 LT1 and T56 and I have a R180 rearend. I can get a R200 with 3.90 gears for about $150.00. I just replaced the whole suspension including upgraded sway bars. Now after reading the JTR manual, I understood that I should use the rear sway bar unless I have a LSD. Should I just put in the R200 and put a LSD R200 later when I can afford it or should I just save my money and just not beat the hell out of it? Also is the R200 and LSD R200 a straight bolt in? Or do I need special half shafts? Thanks!
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Yeah I'm going to have to agree with you Len on this one, I dont think it should matter if he has a Z or not! I know that I have asked some stupid questions and have asked some question that have been answered a 100 times but someone always seems to push me in the right direction, and you know why cause HYBRIDZ.ORG has the nicest group of people that I know of!!!
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Hey Tim240Z, I thought I heard that about the LT1's and the VATS. That you could fire up the motor but it would run for more than a few seconds??? Can someone back me up on this or am I crazy? Oh yeah and why would your motor stay running, Tim240Z? By the way I was looking at some roller rockers on Ebay....would these work???............ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1870606619 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1870620611&rd=1 Would I be better off with the 1.5 ratio rockers? Thanks again!
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#1...If I want to put 1.6 ration roller rockers on my 93 LT1 what else to I have to do to the valve train if anything? #2...Ok if I am going to use a T56 manual transmission in my car is there a switch or something that I will need for the pedal? Cause you know how with a manual you need to have the clutch pedal to the floor for the car to start. Or is this eliminated on the computer or some other way??? Thanks a lot guy and gals(I know theres a few of you out there )!!! Guy
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If I were you I would wait till you get 3-4 thousand miles on that engine. You have to let everything get seated properly before you put all that extra stress on that new engine. Your rings probably haven't even seated completely in their bores yet! Just give it some time before you blow your new motor! That's just my $.02
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I am was wondering if you guys could tell me why you think the swap is harder than a carburated 350? What do you have to do to the engine to make it work? Basically what should you take off or add to the motor to make it work? Is the computer programming hard? Do you have to modify the harness in any way? What about the fuel system? If you have a EFI L28 do you have to change the fuel lines and or add a higher pressure fuel pump? Or is the ZX pump and lines ok? I just want to know what you guys have had to do in your cars to make it work? I am putting one in a 80' 280ZX with a T56. Thanks!
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Sorry I had to post this here but no one would answer in the General Help Section!!! Ok, I have an 1980 280ZX with the original engine still in it. About 2 days ago i left my interior lights on. So put it on the charge for about 24 hours so that I wouldnt burn up my alternator. Well I get it to go somewhere and something just doesnt look right. When ever I would step on the gas the fuel and emergency brake light would come on and the charge light was staying on. Then once I let off the gas the fuel and brake lights would go off but the charge light would stay on. I also noticed that when I step on the gas the charge needle goes from 14V to about 16V, is that normal? The clock in my 3 gauge cluster is also not working (well its not lite up anyway, non of those clocks work in any Z car! ) So what I am thinking is, it must be the alternator? I am not sure so can someone please help me??? Thanks guys and gals , Guy
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First of all there is a difference in 4 wheel drive and All wheel drive. Ever notice how it says in the manual of a 4X4 that you should not use the 4 wheel drive on dry payvment? Yeah thats because if you do I think you will rip up your front differental(sp?) Just a thought!
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Ok, I have an 1980 280ZX with the original engine still in it. About 2 days ago i left my interior lights on. So put it on the charge for about 24 hours so that I wouldnt burn up my alternator. Well I get it to go somewhere and something just doesnt look right. When ever I would step on the gas the fuel and emergency brake light would come on and the charge light was staying on. Then once I let off the gas the fuel and brake lights would go off but the charge light would stay on. So what I am thinking is, it must be the alternator? I am not sure so can someone please help me??? Thanks guys and gals , Guy
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Ok, I know that the 93 LT1's did not have the reprogrammable computers and that they were Speed Density systems but what else is different? The reason I am asking is because I see all these parts for the 94-97's and not too many for the 93's...and guess what? I have a 93'! I was wondering if things like the cam and throttle bodys were the same or not? Can someone please give me some guidence??? Thanks a lot!
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LT1.....I am doing the same with my 80' ZX. I have a 93 LT1 and T56. If I had to do it all over again though I would have bought a 94-97 LT1 and T56 because with those the computer is reprogramable and the T56 has the .5:1 6th gear instead of the .62:1 like mine. I am now in the process of converting my engine to MAF from the Speed Desity system.(Basically making it a 94' motor). I do not have it in the car yet but hopefully I will get a good start on it this winter. I am also curious what you guys are doing with your old inline 6's? Ebay was my first thought but I doubt it would sell. I dont think they are very highly demanded? or maybe they are but I never really see them on there to often. That's my $.02