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HybridZ

80LS1T

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Everything posted by 80LS1T

  1. Thats what I call domestic rice, cause only a ricer would port a head with the heads still on the car! "well if the motor does blow, that will give me a reason to get that stroker I want".....what a V6 stroker? oooooooh that'll make it fast! Maybe if you werent such a tightwad and bought the V8 right away you wouldnt need to be "hoping for 200HP" on the next dyno run! LOL Guy
  2. I think if he left the car running it would be ok to tow like that. But towing with the engine off and in neutral is bad because there is no fluid circulation(atleast thats what I was told?) Guy
  3. Thats what I was going to say. If you can get the inspection plate off you might be able to see if its cracked. Sometimes if the cracks are big/long enough you will see them coming down from the center of the flywheel. This will cause an engine vibration that feels like a misfire. Sometimes you will also hear a clicking noise from the bellhousing area, which is caused by the crack in the flywheel. Also make sure to use loctight on the torque converter bolts(I use the blue stuff). Guy
  4. Yeah buy the 240 back and put the L28ET in it! There is no way I would pass up on this deal. Sounds like a really nice car and a good deal for you. Guy
  5. Hehehe tell that to the moron at work who thinks carbs are still better than EFI in every way:twak: . I try to tell him that cars are tune rich from the factory but he just wont believe me. He thinks EFI is nothing but a gas hog and that all cars should be running carbs.......of course he thinks his 1979 Chrysler New Yorker with its 318 is fast(at 15.7@ 89mph in the quarter mile) I just tell him ya you go adjust your carb while im driving around and letting the computer make adjustments on the fly! I dont know if you can make 500HP and get 20mpg but as Phantom said hes getting 20mpg and hes putting 300HP+ to the ground witht he LS1/T56 combo, thats a good start! Guy
  6. The oil capacity could vary from vehicle to vehicle. Do you know what the engine came out of? A good base line would be 5 Quarts. As for the coolant, just fill it till its full. Most are around 10-14 quarts depending on radiator size, heater core size, and the amount of hose ran. Guy
  7. You know I live in Appleton, WI and I have never seen that thing driving around. Im sure if I did I would have remembered it! Guy
  8. Sooo ah where do I need to sign up for the Army again? Guy
  9. Damn thats a sexy Z! If I were in the market for L28ET parts I would not be contacting Mr. Alex Costa for parts....this is just BS. I dont care if he is "busy" or supposedly the pistons got used in a different motor...last time I checked you paid for them so they should be yours! I would be flying off my handle if I were you. All hes doing now is hurting his own business by not getting you those pistons ASAP. I think if he would have got them to you with in a week after you finally contacted him he would have saved face but its just not looking good for him now. Sorry it had to be you. Too bad it wasnt someone who wasnt in a time crunch. Rant over! LOL Anyways keep the pics coming! (the 3rd pic is my new background on my computer!) Guy
  10. Bill, no my car wont be ready for anything this year. I almost have it driveable again. After that I am starting with the body work. Thats pretty much the reason I bought the compressor, so that it can keep up with a sander and paint gun. I will only be doing the body work and primer though. I dont trust myself painting with the House of Kolor paint(no experiece). It will be ready for paint come spring though and then it'll be on the road! I used 8 Gauge wire and its running about 10 feet from the compressor to the circuit breaker. Guy
  11. Man those meats in the rear just look insane! I love it! Nice times too for your first time out with a new set up. Guy
  12. Ok I just got in from the garage and I have my compressor wired up and operational! I did just what you said fastzcars and put the 2 hot wires across from the wires coming in from the motor on the contactor and grounded the ground wire to the frame. Man it took for ever to fill that tank up! I have it draining right now so that I can hook up all the other things I need like a regulator and water filter. I cant wait to use this thing! Air delivery is no longer a problem in my garage!!!! Thanks for all the help guys! Hybridz never fails to answer my questions! Guy
  13. So I have to put my 2 power wires in across from where the black and white wires coming from the motor are going in? And as for the ground, shouldnt it go into the contactor and not juse grounded on the frame? The reason Im asking is because there are 4 spots to screw the wires in but apparently I only need 2 of them? Guy
  14. That would be great! I have the connector and wiring that I need but I just dont want to hook it up wrong and burn up the motor or relay. Guy
  15. There are no wires coming out of the compressor. I am supposed to have an electrican hook this up. Screw that! Here's the numbers off of the motor.... HP.........5.0 Hz.........60 Volts......230 Amps......22 Time.......CONT Code.......F FR.....Y56HZ SF......1.00 PH......1 (I think this means 1 Phase?) RPM......3450 Here's some pics of the wiring going into what I think is a relay.... The white, black and green wire are from the motor(the 3 wires on the left of the pic). The white and black go into one side of the "relay" and the green is grounded on the bottom of the relay which is grounded on the frame of the compressor. The other black and white wire are from the switch. The white wire is going into the other side of the "relay" and the black is going into the side of the "relay". Above where the wires from the compressor go into the "relay" there are screws that look like they would hold the wires from the line going out of the compressor. The white wires are straight across from each other and the black is across from the blue wire that goes to the back of the relay. Guy
  16. I just got my new air compressor today. Its a Snap-On Signature Series BRA517V. Its made for Snap-On by BIG RED Air Compressors. Its a 220V, 2 stage, 80 Gallon tank, with 175 MAX PSI. Its putting out 17.X SCFMs. It supposed to be rated at 15 years in a shop environment. So this should last forever with just me using it. Although I do plan to have a small shop on the side once I buy a house. But that wont be for a while though. Thats why I got a big air compressor with a good history of customer service. Anyways, I have never wired up a 220V piece of equipment. What I do know is that I have a 220V outlet right next to the circuit breaker box that is wired up to a 40A breaker. This is more than enough. The draw from the motor is 22A. The compressor will be only 10-15 feet from the outlet and the manufactor recommends using 8 gauge wire for 0-25'. The outlet is one of those 3 prong outlets like used for driers or stoves. So if I just go out an buy a male end for this outlet I just need to know how to hook it up to the compressor. It has 4 outlets on the relay block inside the compressor. What else do you guys need to know to help me hook this thing up? Guy
  17. Yes you could set the motor back probably about 1.5" with an LT1 because there is no distributor. However it sure is nice being able to get to the bellhousing bolts on the tranny if needed! With the MSA mounts, a Griffin 26x19 aluminum radiator and the CSI electric water pump it is a very tight fit between the radiator and the water pump. If you just run stock it wont really be an issue. I have about 1/2" clearance between the water pump and the back of the fan. Yeah 3/8"-1/2" metal is a bit thick. The MSA mounts just attach to the old rubber mounts from the L28E and just adapt the 2 bolt pattern to the chevy 3 bolt pattern with the appropriate spacing. Nothing too fancy. I am not using the 700R4 mount that came with the MSA kit either. I made my tranny mount for my T56. I ran the car last night with the wideband hooked up. Its running at about 15:1 at idle and about 13.5:1 when holding it at about 2000 rpms. I am still doing some research on how to do the tuning for A/F ratio on www.lt1tech.com but there really isnt much info on that site on how to do it. Mostly just questions with no replys! I'll figure it out and do a post on how I did it step by step.
  18. I bought my enginemounts from MSA(www.zcarparts.com). I wouldnt pay the $225 for the mounts again though because they are so easy to make. They are about 1/8" thick steel. Remember though I have a 280ZX not a GEN 1 Z. The 280ZX mounts dont have any set back because the engine bay is 3" shorter so You cant really set it back(I could have with the LT1) Guy
  19. Recalls are extremly common, just about every vehicle has them. Although most arent that serious. Only when things like exploding tires or fuel tanks does it make the news. Examples... *DR rams 2002-03....blower motor wiring recall, brake caliper recall, power mirror recall *BR rams 94-2001....emissions purge system recall *first gen neons.....brake booster hose recall *RS Caravan....2 p/s hose recalls, power liftgate module recall *NS Caravan....clockspring recall, fuel rail recall I just dont like Ford because I find them to be a PIA to fix. Then tend to put things in places that are very difficult to get to. GM is the same way but I still like GM just for the fact that there are a ton of aftermarket parts for their engines. Ford pretty much just has the 4.6L and old 5.0L and thats it. Yeah I work on dodges all day long but there isnt an aftermarket for them. I like the fact that Dodge doesnt do a lot of stupid things to make fixing your vehicle a nightmare. However I think thats about to change with the new Durangos and Rams. The engines are barried under the firewall. Here's how I see the big three... Chevy, Dodge and ......................................Ford! LOL Guy
  20. I think you should have kept the drive by wire set up and adapted a set of pedals to your car. It sure would look nicer with out a throttle cable plus it would really make guys wonder where the throttle cable is! Although going this route would probably require more work... Guy
  21. Yeah but you wont get an LS1/T56 combo into a Z unless you steal 1/2 your parts! LOL Guy
  22. 11's should be a cake walk....most likely mid to high 10's though. Guy
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