80LS1T

Maybe you should change your sig to .... "I tried to convince myself I dont need the car but Hybridz wont let me sell it!" Glad to hear your going to push on! Guy

I havent heard it yet other than when the motor is off because I dont have my exhaust pipes hooked up yet. So I wont know if my modified 280ZX pump mount for the fuel pump is going to work as good as I think it will. I got my wideband o2 mounted today in the exhaust. I put a crossover pipe in about a foot down from the two headers. I couldnt get too much else done though because my girlfriend came over and we had to spend some quality time together....."snuggling" LOL Guy

I finally have my engine running again and hopefully for good this time! Its been a none running paper weight since early winter due to me wanting to fix a few things. So over the past few months I have upgraded my LT1/T56 with a few things... 1) New fuel system...MSD fuel pump, -6AN hardlines from the tank forward, cartrige style fuel filter(Mallory), Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, had 2 AN fittings welded into the fuel rails so that I could make the connections with the SS braided lines from the fuel filter and from the pressure regulator. 2) New ignition system...MSD 6AL ignition box with Blaster 2 coil. 3) Installed the 1995 LT1 engine harness(that I edited all by myself with the help of ALLDATA on-line) and new PCM. I have Tunercat to tune with and also purchased an LM-1 wideband o2 sensor to help with tuning. 4) I bought and installed a new clutch and flywheel because the stock flywheel and centerforce dual friction were chattering waaaaaaaaaayyyyyy too much for me. It sounded like a bad rod knock when ever the clutch was not pressed in. Im sure it was causing the PCM to pull timing. I now have a SPEC Stage 3 with a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel that I bought for $400 total! Yeah I didnt really want the aluminum flywheel but who could pass that deal up?! So we'll see how that aluminum flywheel holds up and if I like it or not? 5) I also had my tranny welded up where there was a small crack in the back. I wasnt really a bad one but it did cause me to have a fluid leak from the tranny which I find very annoying! So that leak is long gone! 6) In the process of doing all this I also moved as much wiring as I could out of the engine bay and hide it inside the passenger side fender. This really cleaned the engine bay up! So after finishing my fuel system plumbing today I put all new fluids in everything and proceded to start the engine back up for the first time since early last winter. She fired right up with no hesitation! Its running a little rough but not too bad considering its not tuned at all! Idles right around 700rpms. Oh and I didnt put the exhaust pipes back on yet so it was right out the headers! Yeah I love that sound! I didn't let it run too long though because I dont know if its running rich or lean yet because I dont have the wideband installed yet. So hopefully with in the next few weekends I can get it tuned pretty good and then I will start the process of body work! Here's a few pics for your viewing pleasure!

Dodge made a 383 way back when but it was not a stroker. When someone says they have a 383 stroker they are talking about a 350 SBC with a 400 SBC crankshaft. The stroker term means the 400 crankshaft has a longer stroke than the 350 which is why the displacement is increased. When you use the 400 crankshaft in a 350 you have to clearance the block in a few places so that the rods dont make contact with it. Guy

Hey fourbanger, where are you located in WI? As for the motor choice, $5K wont get you too far with any of those none Z motor swaps. The L28ET could be done for that with some extra goodies for the Turbo set up though! Guy

Yeah sell it to Grumpy so he can put a HUGE motor in it and WOW us all! Guy

I think the only 2 that you can do on your list for $5K would be a SBC 350 with WC-T5 or rebuild an L28ET. The LS1/T56 combo will set you back probably $3K unless you find a really good deal on a donor car that someone is trying to get rid of. The same can be said for the RB25DET. For $5k you wont get much unless your very paitent and go to the pick and pull to get most of your small parts. Thats the part that no one ever thinks about, those small parts is what really brings the cost of the coversion threw the roof. Guy

Have you ever thought of just paying someone to finish it for you? I mean it sounds like you have most of the stuff you need but just not the time or space to do it? Guy

So what do you think fixed your no start problem? And Im pretty sure you've posted it but....what kind of numbers are you expecting from this new motor for HP/TQ? Guy

I dont care that if it was a man or woman.....she should have had that gun holstered! Atleast the guy that was getting cuffed is going to get off on whatever he was being charged with due to some deal with the district attorney to try to save face for the local PD. Im just glad it was caught on tape so that there is no way around it with the old "I thought he was trying to escape" or "he was coming at me" or "I felt threatened" routines that they like to use to make it look like its not their fault. Or maybe they'll try a new one..."the gun just went off, I didnt pull the trigger". Yeah that would really help those anti gun activists! I would rather see the cop say "ya I f***ed up". Rather than play the legal games but we know that wont happen. Guy

On my LT1 I am only running a single wire from the connector. You should run ignition voltage to the F terminal and run the large wire off of the ALT to the battery(mine goes to the starter and then to the battery). I know I read it somewhere that if you hook up the alternator wrong(run power to the wrong terminal) it will do weird things and premiturly(sp?) burn up. I'll try to find the webpage.... Guy

Glad your starting problem was an easy one to fix! I have to say its the best feeling in the world when you fire up a new motor! Congrats! Guy

So what is the white/red wire for?

There should only be 2 wires going to the starter... One should be a large cable from the battery going to the post on the starter and the second should be your ignition wire coming from the ignition switch going to the starter solenoid. I think the black/yellow wire is your ignition wire but Im not 100% sure on a 280Z. What is the white/red wire for? The ground wire that was in my 280ZX went from tbe battery to one the starter mounting bolts. Guy

Now that is a hood I would buy if they were avaliable for the 280ZX's! Yeah Im jelious! LOL:violin: I dont know if painting the spoiler black will look good though, IMHO. I would paint the tail light panel black to match and leave it at that. Guy

You can use DEX 3 or DEX 2 in your tranny. DEX 3 is ok to use in anything that originally came with DEX 1 or 2. It is a superseeded(sp?) fluid. Its not like brake fluid where you dont want use like DOT 5 in a DOT 3 system. I would use DEX 3 Guy

Im not sure where the Cam and cranks sensors are on an LS1 but often you have to have a slight air gap between the tip of the sensor and the tone wheel. If you dont have the gap correct it will either make the car run like crap or not run at all. You can buy these little sticky pads(we call them warts at work) that you stick on on the end of the sensor and it gives the sensor s the proper air gap. They are about as thick as a CD. If the senors are in a fixed position then this is probably not the problem but if the mounting holes are enlongated this could be your problem. Guy

I dont know if you will save on gas but you deffinetly wont gain any TQ with a carb that is too small. Making the engine run the most efficently with the correct sized carb is the best way to make power and get the best MPG. Keeping your foot out of the throttle will help the most with MPG though. Guy

Think of it this way....the guys that run the 4 barrel set up on the L28(stock 2.8 liter engine) are using a 390cfm carb. So yeah that wont be enough to feed a 355(5.7 liter engine). Running a huge carb doesnt help either, even though some guys seem to think they need a 900cfm carb on a mild small block. Doesnt GM recommend a certain carb for that engine? Guy

Wow 2720 seems pretty light for a 280ZXT. I thought they were just shy of 3000lbs. I figured my 280ZX weighed in at 29xxLBS for sure. Those are the kind of numbers I have seen. Some in the 2800's but I sure didnt think the ZX's were in the 2700's? Anyone else weigh in there ZX(T)? I thought the 240Z's were in the 2400lbs range stock? So I figured minus all the a/c stuff you could see 2300's? Guy

Um a Z31 does not even come close to 2200-2400 lbs. Heck a 240Z doesnt even come it there with out weight reductions. The Z31's are over 3000LBS easy. Guy

Go to their site www.jagsthatrun.com . All the info that you will need about their products are there. Guy

There are a "hundred" things that could turn that light on. When it flashes is when you should not drive the car. When the light is on steady it is ok to drive. Get it checked out ASAP. Guy