80LS1T

My girlfriend refers to it as "your god damn car" LOL My friends call it "that car" as in are you ever going to finish "that car". I just call it The Datsun. Never really understood naming a car but to each his own. I just want to call it a finished car! LOL Guy

I can't say I agree with it looking like a Crossfire but it sure does look a lot like a Z32. I too would much rather see a V8 in a Z. Something to compete with the the GTO and dare I say Mustang(even though the Mustang is only putting out like 300HP). Guy

In the spirit of the upcoming holiday, here's a pretty funny clip. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2931/skeleton_street_show/ Guy

Ok lets see what everyone considers the LS1.

Yeah I would agree with that. No one calls it a SBC, just an LS1. But doesnt SBC refer to the basic dimensions of a block? It is very close in size to the old SBC. GM 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 383, 396, 400, 406's are all considered SBC's. I dont think the SBC refers the actual design of the engine but more to the actual size of the block itself. Thats why I personally consider it a SBC with new technology. Maybe we should take a poll to get a realistic idea of what people really think? Guy

Im not saying that the old SBC has anything in common with the LS1 but I bet most guys still consider the LS1 a SBC. Thats all Im saying, whether GM wants to call it a SBC is really irrelivent because if the public calls it a SBC then its a SBC. Guy

So a 347cid LS1 is a "medium-displacement, V8" but a 350cid Gen I is a "SBC". But a 305cid is also considered a SBC. So what are the LS1 guys supposed to say..."I have a medium displacement LS1 in my car?" I think the LS1's are SBC's with new technology. Guy

Doing your oil change every 5000 will not void your warrenty unless your dealership has a bunch of A-holes behind the counter. Most dealerships are so competitive now that they dont want to piss you off when your under warrenty because they dont want to loose you as a customer when you go out of warrenty because they you start paying. Now if your a "good" customer and you have problems once your out of warrenty you are more likely to get help from the dealership. They will "goodwill" things for your.....Dodge pays for the parts, dealership pays for labor, and you pay a deductable(can range usually from $50-$300, depends on the repairs actual cost). For the guys who never bring their car in for maintance(tranny flushes, oil changes, 4x4 services, tune-ups, p/s flushes, EFI cleaning, etc) they are much less likely to get "goodwill" after they are out of warrenty. Why should the dealership/dodge help you if you haven't helped them? Sometimes its worth spending a few bucks to maintane your car at a dealership. Just depends on how much you can fix on your own. I really doubt changing your oil every 5000 miles will void your warrenty. If your really paranoid do what Mike said and keep all your fluid and filter reciepts. And document your maintance mileage. Guy

Those numbers arent really the greatest for using air tools. Deffinetly wont keep up with things like grinders, paint guns, or sanders. Running a 220V is not really that big of a deal. Do you know anyone who knows electrical? You can buy a compressor from Home Depot that is bigger, 2 stage, and has a higher CFM rating for the same amount of money but it will be a 220V. I personally wouldn't buy it because I don't think you will be happy with it. I was using a 3HP/10 gallon compressor and it was an absolute dog(I now have a 5hp/70 gallonvertical tank/2 stage/17.x CFM/175 max psi Snap-On compressor). It had the same CFM rating and max psi rating as that compressor but it was only a single stage compressor. It might keep up with some air tools but I have found that having a decent air compressor is just one of those things that you should spend good money on rather than having to buy one again later because you didnt make the best decision to begin with. That's my $.02 Guy

Yeah Im calling BS unless hes adding oil. Cause it would have burned all the oil that was in it from the factory by now. Still pretty hard to believe even if he's adding oil. You would think the motor would have sludged up by now and had some serious mechanical issues........but ya never know I guess... Guy

I think the biggest problem you'll have is the time frame since you had it there. A good shop will probably pay. It would be a lot easier to get them to pay if you would have brought it back the next day or even the same day. What I want to know is how did the mechanic that put the tranny in not notice that he pinched an oil line? Thats kind of scary. I know I would have noticed that the tranny was not flush with the engine. Hopefully the shop cares more about its reputation that a few hundred dollars for a turbo. Guy

Here's what I got.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104208 Guy

What no Z's LOL Guy

No I didnt have any problem with it going into gear. Once and a while it would pop out of 3rd gear which makes me think my 3rd gear syncro is shot. My knocking noise was coming from inside the tranny. Guy

Yeah the big differece between HZ and other sites is the MODS/ADMINS delete the pointless posts. This really helps when trying to search. I know on the other sites I use you could type in a question and get 200 hits but only 10-20 of those threads actually have info in them, most are just filled with "yeah when I save up some cash Im going to buy that...." Well when you save up your cash then post but until then I dont want to hear about how your brothers friends cousin's dad is going to build you a 1000HP quad turbo 4 cylinder that will run on pump gas! LOL Those are the kind of posts I hate, I just want to hear about real world experience not your pipe dreams. Guy

Oh trust me mine vibration was a balance issue, my machinist assured me of that. He knew right away when I told him what I had going on. I just sold that flywheel and I am going back to the counter balanced factory flywheel. As for your problem, sounds more like either internal tranny problems or yeah possibly a clutch/throw out bearing? Not too sure. I havent got my tranny ripped down yet. I know that once it is I will find out what that figgin knocking noise that I have been chasing since day one is though! Guy

What does EPLF and DPLF stand for? Guy

Well I only surf a few other forums.... www.lt1tech.com , www.srtforums.com, and once an a great while www.zcar.com . I use lt1tech.com for obviously lt1 info, srtfrorums.com for SRT4 info because I work at a dodge dealership and I need to keep up on SRT4 stuff since I have pretty much been appointed the "SRT4 Guy" at work(no one else likes modding cars with aftermarket stuff). All I can say is man these friggen sites are fill with so much BS its not even funny. You can get 100 answers to the same question and they will all be different! The SRT site is pretty much ricer heaven, everyone's car is the fastest and "the srt4 is not a neon". The lt1 tech sites has quite a few good members but its like pulling teeth to get them to answer questions. There really isnt a lot of good info on the site. Lots of unanswer questions. I tried to get some help with tuning with Tunercat but pretty much came up with a very short answer that really wasnt much help(it got me pointed in the general direction of tuning the WOT a/f ratio). You would think that with quite a few people doing their own tuning that there would be a FAQ for tuning with TC. Instead there are just a tone of threads for "which is better tunercat or LT1edit?" As for zcar.com, I cant really remember the last time I was on that site but I do go it from time to time to see whats up. We all know what kind of members are on that site! Point is I think some times I take it for granted the kind of memebers we have here. We dont have the kind of guys that need to brag 24/7/365 about how they beat a Viper from a dead stop to 200mph. Even though Im sure there are a few members that could! LOL:twisted: I just have been very annoyed at all the BS from the other forums that I thought I would say... THANKS GUYS FOR KEEPING THE SITE 99.9% FREE FROM THE BS RICER CRAP! Guy

Well here's the jist of what I know now after talking to my body man.... You want to do the filling of the low spots first. If you take it down to bare metal you want to use a bare metal primer. Regular primer does not like to stick to metal. You can get this type of primer in a rattle can and it doesnt need to be applied really thick, just enought to put a light coat on the metal. He also said to use like a 180-220 sandpaper to do the whole car witht the DA sander. 320 will cloge up pretty quick. Then he said to use a urethane primer. I will be attaching the body kit with some specail glue. He said the fiberglass is more likey to break off where its not glued than where its glued, so this glue must be pretty damn strong. He did a fiberglass body kit on a Probe and the owner hit a driveway too fast and the part that wasnt glued actually broke off and not the part that was glued. He said once this stuff is on you better have that piece fitted properly! I told my buddy that I would be over bugging him for the next few weeks asking question to make sure Im doing it right. I will be posting info on my website as I move further along. I will probably added a page to detail the whole process of how I did it and what I used. Guy

Just tap on it with a hammer, it will come off. Theres nothing else holding it on. Guy

I dont think 10 gauge is big enough for a 220V(I assume its 220 since your running it from your drier outlet) welder to go 100'. Let me put it this way, my new air compressor which is a 220v/70 gallon/5HP/2 stage Snap-On recommends using 4 gauge wire on 51-75' on a 40A circuit breaker. Now I really doubt that this is pulling more Amperage than a 220v welder. You know what is says for 76' and up.........."call the factory". Probably because they want to know what the heck you are doing that you need to run that much wire! LOL If you want to paint your goint to want a compressor that puts out say 15cfm at 90psi to keep up easily with a paint gun. You can get by with less but you will probably have to stop and wait a lot to let the compressor catch up. Sanders really suck air and if you dont have a good compressor you will really be waiting for it to catch up. You could get by with an electric sander though. A lot of guys do that option too. If you buy a good compressor it will last forever if you take care of it. I just went through this process about a month ago when I bought mine. Here's the post... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103362 Guy

I wish I would have known it was this weekend, I would have came(I missed Bill's second post on when the show was)! I sure as heck didnt have anything to do this weekend since my DA sander didnt show up and I didnt get a chance to talk to my friend about doing body work. I wasnt about to dive head first into body work with out some one on one talking with an expert! Nice pics! Guy

If that doesnt work or you dont have one.......... Put 2 long bolts into the diff flange bolt holes across from each other. Then put a pipe in between those bolts. Then put the biggest and longest breaker bar you have (and a pipe on the breaker bar if you have one) and you should be able to bust that nut loose. Before you take it off though you'll want to stake both the nut and the pinion(that the threaded part that the nut goes on), so that you know now far to tighten it back down when you put it back together. Guy

Its not that much differnet. The mounts just dont have any set back because the engine bay for a 280ZX is 3" shorter. The JTR book is good for understanding the "theory" of the Datsun V8 motor swap. It wont give you the step by step process of swapping in a SBC into a 280ZX because the wiring is differnet and and the orignal plumbing like brake lines and fuel lines are differnet. It may or may not help you depending on how much you know about cars. If your new to the engine swap scene then I say buy it, if you've done one before then just read on here and use the search function and you will find every thing you need. Guy

Hey Bastaad, what catch can did you get? If you got one with some clear plastic hoses, dont use the hose because it cant take the heat and will collapse or cause a vacuum leak because it wont stay on the fittings properly which will most likely cause a check engine light for "irratic map signal". I have installed 2 catch cans and both are doing this, one car I fixed with some EFI fuel hose(very stiff stuff). And the other car I havent seen in a while so I have gotten to fix this yet. Guy