80LS1T

If you have a rack and pinion steering set up you can buy headers from JTR. Those are the only off the shelf headers that will work with a SBC in a 280ZX. No if's ands or buts about it. Sorry. Guy

Sounds like vapor lock. Did you remove any heat shielding from the fuel lines near the exhaust when you were putting in these new gaskets and seals? I would check for fuel lines that are too close to the heat of the exhaust and if any are in question, put some kind of heat shielding between them and the exhaust. Guy

Looking good! But whats with painting over all the brake lines, wiring, etc? New stuff going in or just dont care? Guy

Yah that looks like a fun little toy!!

An inline capacitor basicaly acts as a buffer for voltage spikes. It has to "charge up" to a certain level before it discharges the voltage. People often use them for car audio to help smooth out the voltage spikes due to the big amps used. The 60 Amps that is being refered to is only on inital start up. Im not sure what the actual constant amperag draw is of the fan on high or low. I am using the one speed fan, which has performed great for me! Guy

Yes I was reffering to the aftermarket MAF's. I dont have any hard data to back up my opinions but after reading threw post after post about how a aftermarket/descreened MAF is making their car run wierd I decieded that there are better things to speed money on to make more HP/TQ. As for the electric water pump, I personally dont like the idea of a shaft running from my water pump to the timing chain cover. Its not really a HP mod but more of a piece of mind mod for me. Your right about not having a water pump locally. I never even thought of that. Although I do like the idea of changing my water pump is about 10 minutes! LOL I wasnt telling him to buy an electic water pump or not buy a differnet MAF. I told him he should stay with the stock set up and then upgrade later to stay on a good budget now. Guy

Well I dont agree that the LT1 is a better engine than the LS1 but its is deffinetly cheaper because of the LS1. No one wants to use the LT1 anymore if they can afford the LS1. Which is great for the guys that are on a budget but want EFI for a decent price! I also dont think that "upgrading" to a bigger MAF is a wise HP/Dollar move. You wont see any significate gains and in my opinion its a $300 paper weight! Descreening the MAF is also not a very good idea, IMHO. You want a smooth air flow over those wires running though the MAF and descreening it tends to cause the MAF to give poor reading due to the more turbulant air going over it. I say get a bone stock LT1 with alluminum heads(save on weight) put it in and drive it like that. It will beat most cars on the road just like that. Once your out of the house and on your own you can upgrade it later with a heads and cam package that suites your needs. Plus it wont require any special tuning now. Just getting an EFI motor and tranny in the car and running will cost you a pretty good chunk of change. You need to think about all the little things that will nickle and dime you to death if your not ready for them. If this is a budget build your going to need to bargin hunt and stay away from the "bling bling" items. Guy

Well the reason I want/need something a little bigger and better is because I fix a lot of cars on the side at home so I need a compressor that will last and put out enough air to supply my air tools. I absolutly hate waiting for the compressor to catch up. It costs me money to just stand there rather than actually fix the car(I charge by the flat rate hour not how for long it takes me). Guy

I was out tonight at Home Depot, Menards, and Fleet Farm looking for the stuff to get a price on it and possibly buy it but I couldnt find it anywhere! All I found was some tar paper stuff that had what basically looked like the top of a shingle(sandy like surface on one side and sticky surface on the other side). This is not what I want in my car. I am going to check at Lowe's on Thursday. Where did you guys get it? Guy

Just wanted to give a little info on the timing chain set up.... If you run an electric water pump like you want you can run a regualar small block timing chain or gear drive. However a gear drive set up might cause "false" knock and cause the PCM to pull timing, which is deffiently not good. I am running a CSI electric water pump and a Cloyes double roller timing chain. I forget the part number but Im sure you could find it by doing a search in the Chevy V8 forum. Guy

Ok for you guys that have used peel N' seal for a sound deadener I was wondering if you could answer a few questions.... 1. Does it have a strong odor? I am thinking it smeels like roofing tar? 1a. If it does have an odor does it go away after a while? 2. What do you think of it so far? Did it drastically cut down on the noise and heat? 3. How many layers of it did you use? If only one, do you think 2 would be better? 4. Does it stick to the doors, roof, and quarter panels good? Since this was intended for roofs and not a vertical surface Im just wondering if it is going to stay stuck to these parts good? Thanks Guys! Guy

It seems like a pretty good price for what Im getting. I think Im going to "pull the trigger" on it! Guy

When I had the 93' electronics in my car I had it hooked up through the speedo first and then into the computer and never used the VSS output wire. I never had any issues with the Autometer speedo. Now that I have switched over to the 95' system I am using the VSS output. I will have to see how it works out. My car should be up and running again very soon. I will keep this in mind if I have any issues with my Autometer speedo! Guy

Ok, heres what Im looking at for a compressor... Its a Bel Air, 80 Gallon tank, 2 stage, 220V, oil type compressor, with a 5 HP motor. This compressor pushes about 15cfm. Im looking at about $1000 for it new. What do you guys think? Is this brand ok? Guy

Man it just never ends with you and that car! Just when we thought your car was the fastest/crazyest car on 4 wheels you go and get a bigger super charger! I really cant wait to see this thing back on the road! Guy

Well the OPTISPARK unit is always a suspect but yours is a 95' and should be the most up to date vented style(less pron to problems). I think your going to need to take it some where to figure out why you cant communicate with the PCM to read codes. Its kind of like shooting in the dark right now. If you cant communicate with the PCM, something(one of the sensors) might be taking down the BUS(communication line between modules). Start unplugging sensors that are on the 5 Volt reference(MAP, TPS, MAF, etc) and see if communication comes back so you can read codes. Once/if you get communication back you will know which sensor is causing the problem. Just replace it and clear the codes and see how it runs then. Guy

After reading through about 20 posts on what kind of compressor to get here's what I've learned.... 1. Dont buy an oil-less compressor 2. Get atleast a 60 Gallon tank 3. Always buy the best you can 4. Get a 220V compressor 5. Get a 2 stage compressor The only thing Im not really sure on is what kind of CFM rating I need. I will be running normal air tools like.....impact wrench, air ratchets, drills, air hammer, and soon a paint gun(not sure on what kind of paint gun though) I also read that if you go with a HVLP gun that you will need a compressor with higher a CFM rating...is that true? Thanks guys! Guy

^^^^^^^^^ Wow! LOL:icon52: Guy

I think I am going to use both double sided tape and I will have to use the countersunk screws to hold the side skirts tight to the body. I would think if this was ureathan then the tape would be enough but this is fiberglass. Now on my rear skirt there is a chip in it on the corner, what can I use to fix this? Will I need to get some fiberglass stuff to fix it? Thanks Guy

I for one am extremly impressed with how cleanly they installed the drivetrain! I would give them my business after seeing just how nice of a job they did. Deffinetly :2thumbs:'s up! Guy

Wow that seems like a very good write up for someone like me to read. I have absolutly no background it painting but after reading that I understand the process a lot more than I did 10 minutes ago! Guy

Ok when it comes to body work Im a noobie. Now Im not sure how to start with attaching the body kit, so heres a few questions.... 1. The parts where the body kit will cover, do I sand those down and primer them and then just paint them say black(wont be seen anyways?) or do I just leave those parts alone and attach the body kit over and just spray the whole car in primer and leave those parts in the original paint(again they wont be seen)? 2. Some parts of the kit dont fit the body very good and will really need to be held tight to the body. What should I use to do this? I have read about using 2 sided tape but I find it hard to beleive that this will hold it tight. For attaching the body kit I was thinking of using stainless steel screw and counter sinking them into the fiberglass then using something to cover the screw(like glassing over them?) But I dont know if I will have issues with the screws coming back out and then ruining the paint? Anybody ever heard of doing this or known if this is a bad idea? Thanks, Guy

I dont know about your car but the brakes will not hold my car! Too much HP/TQ! Although it would slow them down! Guy

WOW!! That was hilarious! Guy