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Blown77Z

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Everything posted by Blown77Z

  1. Patched driver lower rear side
  2. Blown77Z

    280z

    280z stripped down, ready for epoxy primer !!!
  3. Blown77Z

    Hood Vents

    Hood Vents
  4. Blown77Z

    Hood Vents

    Hood Vents
  5. Blown77Z

    Misc Pieces

    Ready for paint !
  6. Blown77Z

    Rear Valence

    Patched and ready for Z Glass !
  7. Blown77Z

    Rear Valence

    Patched up. Ready for Z Glass !
  8. I ordered a complete "rear end" kit from them, control arms, Q45 mount, axles. The wait wasn't that long. You won't be dissapointed with their products !
  9. I'm using 5" speedo and tach. Then the 2 5/8 for the oil pressure, water temp, fuel level, volt meter. You don't need to buy any special sending units. However, I did mount my oil pressure and water temp sending units with the kit that JCI sells. His kit is called the Vital Liquids Set. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm I found the stock oil pressure and water temp sending units didn't go well with the JCI adaptors, but the autometer ones fit PERFECT ! As for the autometer water temp sending unit, you can use the fittings in JCI's set, just have to take the brass fittings apart and combine them with the autometer fittings
  10. About 2 months ago I started sanding the car down to bare metal to prep it for body work, then paint. I now have the first phase of it done The reason for taking it all the way down to bare metal was to find on the hidden rust under the 80 layers of paint I found on the car... Sure enough, I found a few small rust spots/areas that I cleaned up and will coat them with POR-15. Here's the worst spot I found, this rust spot aka HOLE ate all the way thru the metal. I have decided to shave the rear end including the hatch lid emblem, the antenna hole, side emblems behind the quarter windows and rear lower valence. The front fender emblems will also be shaved. And I bought a new toy to help with all of this My first time using a welder and in my opinion it's not that hard to get used to it, although the learning curve is higher when starting to weld on thin metal versus thick metal After the metal work is done. I will smooth it all out with some bondo. Then start the paint process I'll be shooting the car with the smoke gray color from the 2010 mustang! I can't wait !!!
  11. Blown77Z

    Miller 140

    Miller 140
  12. Blown77Z

    Miller 140

    Miller 140
  13. Blown77Z

    Car stripped

    Paint removed.
  14. Blown77Z

    Car stripped

    Paint removed.
  15. Why are you replacing the SBC? For the LS1, I bought mine on Ebay from a company called fparts. They are highly respected and reliable for LS style engines. http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Fparts__W0QQ_armrsZ1
  16. Just as the title says. Need a 84-89 300 NON-turbo engine wire harness. Thanks in advance.
  17. I need a good condition 70-78 PASSENGER side fender for my 77 280. Send me a PM if you have one. Thanks, Tim
  18. Here's a link that gives some identifiers about the LS2. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0503_ls2_generation_IV_specifications_differences/index.html EDIT: One more link with some general knowledge about swapping them over (if you wanted to down the road) http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/495710-reluctor-wheel-swap.html It looks like ALL 2006+ LS2 engines come with the 58X reluctor wheel
  19. I put my headers on first, then lowered the engine in place
  20. I'm leaning towards the PRC 220cc 5.3L Stage 2.5 CNC Ported Heads w/ the Tsunami cam offered by Texas Speed Heads: http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=84&catid=20 Cam: http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=942&catid=44 However, I will call them and ask them for advise before I buy anything.
  21. Did you pull the rubber plugs out and get the area under the lip of them? I found some rust under mine when I redid my floors....
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