peej410

How high is your front end? What dia tire are you using? I have been toying with possibly making the hood just vented and not bothering with the ducts. Any input on this?

The ford IRS with its limitations is a designed solution. After months of thinking and planning I put 97 M3 suspension into my Z. It took a lot of hours to figure plan design and get everything together. There Is a lot to be gained. I didn't have the funds to make the Z rear end bullet proof. Do it, have fun, and learn along the way. One big note. Spend an exhaustive amount of time setting up your ride height and the subframes location in the car. I have my car running and over the winter am tearing it back apart to try to raise the subframe in the body more. Worst case scenario you have a modern adjustable suspension you can get real dampers and current aftermarket parts for.

I just watched the video. I dont have much to offer on setup because my suspension is different but our cars are nearly identical in power/weight and setup. Congrats on the successful first hill climb. Do you have a full cage in your car?

I was referring to the space between the air dam and the splitter. I wasnt going to remove the air dam just cut a slot in the vertical alu piece between the air dam and the splitter. Right now I dont have a cooling issue but if I take the car to Watkins Glen next season I would like it to be stable at 150+ DSC_0352 by peej410, on Flickr Between the rivets essentially. Also The plan is to lower the car globally another inch but i need shorter front struts to do it.

Thanks! I did have a new Idea to exploit the highest pressure area in the vehicle for the inlet of the rad. On the front of my car the aluminum strip between the splitter and the air dam is 2.5in tall I could make a 34in rectangular slot. It is the highest pressure area in the front end. I could completely block off the radiator, and duct the air up into the rad. Opinions?

Alright so I took the plunge. I currently cant drop the vents that far because the leading edge of the vent hits either the radiator inlet or the fan controller mounted to the shroud. To increase over all area I am going to leave the inner edge open and make the vent larger under the hood. I will try to get both vents to merge at a point. I may ditch the ford taurus fan for a setup that is easier to duct to. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr

Posted this on C-C no response yet so I figured I would post here as well. I directed the curve of the vents to direct air passed the a-pillars and around the side of the car. I have yet to cut them as I am looking for input as mentioned below. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Please ignore the random tape. I get excited at times haha. I am looking to mimic this, fordgt by peej410, on Flickr top_by_B3nzin by peej410, on Flickr My radiator is already angled forward and can go far further without too much effort. The only real piece in the way is the upper radiator hose. I did have a concern that the vents are not directly behind the radiator and fan Also the intended vent area at its mouth is about half of the radiators inlet area. So 50% of the air coming in would be able to get out. Would this be a significant enough improvement in air management to consider all the effort? __________________

Got some stills from the autocross DSC_0352 by peej410, on Flickr DSC_0341 by peej410, on Flickr DSC_0338 by peej410, on Flickr Car drove extremely well. Heres a video of the first dyno run.

240z Autocross Finally got her out to shake down the suspension. On the right hand side (in the vid) of the course, I was pretty crossed up and missed the gate. The car stops well and turns better. I need to update the rest of the bushings because the rear end isnt anywhere near as planted as the front. More updates to follow! (gopro bat was dead, sorry for no in car!)

I cant believe i forgot to post these photos! Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr

I posted an update on corner-carvers so I figures I should update this as well. I have put nearly 300 miles on it and three dyno runs, here is the feedback so far.... It is an unholy beast. I took my machinist for a ride, he said that I am insane. (teehee) Granted there are much faster cars out there but it is pretty raw and frightening. It only made 370hp at the rear wheels. pjhptq by peej410, on Flickr pjhptqaf by peej410, on Flickr More on that later. I am scaling it today to find out where she ended up with all the new hardware. (not corner balance just weight as I dont have a level pad) First driving impressions. It likes to turn. It does not like to go straight. In the front I need to work out bump-steer issues. I ordered a bumpsteer kit from HRP World for an extremely reasonable price. It should arrive monday. I need to upgrade to monoballs for the RTABS. I am tempted to steal them from my M3 as I would like to make it more street friendly again. Also, the 450F and 400R spring rate split does not work. The front does not body roll brake dive or anything and I havent yet installed the front sway bar. I am going to drop to a 6" 350lb spring and see if it wakes up a little bit. I set the front toe to 1/8in total and the rear 1/8in total. I get the sensation that I have a bit of rear steer under accel. I talked to Terry Fair and he agreed that monoballs are likely the ticket. Heres the scale numbers Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Picked up 115lbs total. So, Bigger brakes, hubs, calipers, wheel bearings. Stronger CV shafts, LSD, longer drive shaft, 18 x 10s (up from 14 x 6) two additional mufflers and a fuel cell. Still all glass steel and stock seats! Onto the horespower shortage... Troy Patterson built my carb. It is a 1000HP body Annular booster 1:1 ratio Holley. Troy thinks that my air cleaner is actually the culprit. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I measured the space between the lid and the base at the carb throat and it is only 1.5 inches. Troy has used these before and has seen them hurt power with a 3" element, a new 14 x 4 K&N is on the way for this upcoming week so I get to try to fit it under the hood! I have to ask though... what kind of CFM could a 1.5in tall 6in diameter space support? Out for another drive soon. Added a few more lbs of sound deadening to try to make it more bearable! I will try to get some videos soon, my camera mount decided to give up the ghost so I need to rig something new up.

Well the front width is 68.5 inches. Rear is 67 i doubt you could get stock wheels to fit in there in the back under the stock fenders. The strut in the rear keeps ya from getting the real wheels anywhere close to the inner fender. The rear i set up so that it has more antidive but raised the subframe in the car so i can run it low. In the front i did make it fully adjustable.

Drove it early this week. Nice firm pedal. Pretty flawless and bled easier than most. It is very firm for my setup maybe too firm, but I still need to get more power assist out of it.

I apologize for the lack of updates but.. I DROVE IT LAST NIGHT. Pictures now, tech if someones interested. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr image10 by peej410, on Flickr photo 1 by peej410, on Flickr photo 4 by peej410, on Flickr image3 by peej410, on Flickr photo 2 by peej410, on Flickr This is prior to boxing top and bottom. photo 3 by peej410, on Flickr photo 5 by peej410, on Flickr image7 by peej410, on Flickr zoey15 by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Some of the photos are out of order but you get the point. Let me know what ya'll think. Also its still to forkin loud.

Mike, our Z cars are very similar in trim. Mine scaled out at 2550 with stealies and a stock fuel tank. You should be sub 2500 no problem unless your cage is a lot more extensive than mine. I may have missed it, but which rear wing is that? Oh, and if you havent, seal up the doors and any other openings to the body well. It has some aero benefit.

Also potentially significant. It broke two zipties at 130. Ty rap brand 100lb pull advertised. At 60mph on the way home they did not break. Hood pins ever since.

For what its worth (which could be nothing) i know for a fact that a Z with a hood that isnt properly fastened will have lift in the nose at 130mph.(everyone knows that) When the fastening fails at the back the hood will raise up to roof height and stay there. When the hood pops open the car sucks to the ground briefly until your heart beats through your chest and you gather information about what just happened. At 100mph as you slow the hood continues to come down as you slow the car back to reasonable speeds it wont close until 30mph or so. Note: even if you are young AND stupid. Dont attempt to hold the hood down with Zipties because its "hinged at the front and doesnt matter"

I would be in on a group buy.

Quick updates! Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Some shots of the control arms and the rear cheapy ZG flares. I am half way done plumbing the brakes. Purchased and installed the one inch Wilwood Master. (if ya need one pm me) and had a new driveshaft made! I have a friend bending me up a sheetmetal gas tank for now and hopefully It will make noise in the next week or so!

Most of the better camber plates (adjustable pillow ball, aka, monoball, aka spherical bearkngs) incorporate a bearing that allows for the rotation of the suspension about an axis through the upper "pillow ball" and the lower ball joint. The spring usually has the weight of the car on it the perches dont often move. Plus youre also supposed to lock them down. This second bearing is there to keep from trying ro wind and unwind the spring when the wheel is turned. When the suspension is compressed the ball joint swings out nearly perpendicular to the centerline of the car (think trans tunnel) The upper mount stays fixed to the body. This makes a rotating or deflecting part necessary. The factory used bushings, and without going into too long of a discussion bushings last a long time are cheaper and dont allow the suspension to move freely. Any control arm swings in an arc. Just like the tips of your fingers do when you flap your arms like a bird.

I installed the Wilwood unit this weekend. I have not tested it yet. I did remove the spring and little black thing but kept the cones. It looked to me as though the cones are what seal to the taper from the flare to the master... Spitz did you say you removed the cones?

Replied to your PM. I have a whole bunch of updates for this thread. Stay tuned!

Thank you so very much. You have actually made my day. I am within 10mm of where they should be ideally. Meaning that currently i have more antisquat which i wanted. I ordered a pair of magnaflows to quiet it down a bit. Next issue is fuel cell. Do i save and wait for an ATL cell or build a custom cell out of aluminum? Likely wont be doing anything crazier than a hillclimb or time attack event...

No worries John. RT basically i am looking for the offset from the rtab bucket face to the flat surface of the subframe mounts on the body. Mostly just trying to sort how close i am to OE dimension. Its bery tricky if the suspension is ob the car...

ZG flares ordered along with a pair of penske 7500 single adjustables for the back. Dont say never... I never thought i would be as fast with my M as i am at the track. Good instructors and confidence in your ability goes a very long way! (and only push your limits in the corners with a lot of run off!)