HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Isn't the l28 flywheel 120 teeth?
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You can lose prime when something like a sensor has the ecu in crisis.
Try unplugging all the sensors and all the actuators and see if prime returns.
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I ran a 11.5 with a 3n71b in a "j ported" mazda RX2.
It lasted many years shifting at 8500 rpms and it had a B&M shift kit in it but I had to spend 800 bucks (in 1982) to have TCI build a 4,000 rpm stall convertor.
That thing was a wild ride.
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There are many people who have the insert but most have them bundled with other stuff to bring profit.
http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10082-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-Adapter-M18-x-1.5mm-to-M12-x-1.25mm_p_15988.html
That insert seems way too long.
You are also relying on whether the threads are ok in your housing as well.
I had missing threads so I couldn't use an insert so I soaked the tiny bolts that hold that small heat shield on with a penetrating oil for many days and was able to get them off.........which is highly difficult and possibly impossible.
I just drilled a small piece of metal for the two bolt holes and threaded it for the smaller sensor.
Then I found an EGR tube gasket from some toyota at the junkyard bolted it on.
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I would check both cars to see what rear end and axles they have.
If your 1979 has u-joint axles and a r180, you might find that the 1983 has updated axles (c/v type) and a R200 in addition to a much simpler rear brake setup.
It's possible that your handbrake cable will be specific to each year's rear end hardware.
I had the same issue with a 1981 280zx turbo and a 1983 ZX and luckily worked at a toyota dealership that let me stay late so I jacked both up side by side and swapped the entire front suspension by disconnecting the steering shaft from the rack and dropping the entire front crossmember that had everthing.
Not much to undo but the crossmember is not easy to move around and position for re-installation if you're alone.
You can suspend the engine, unbolt the 3 strut bolts on each side, undo the steering shaft, disconnect brake lines, unbolt a couple of fuel or vacuum lines from the crossmember, one nut each from engine mounts, and undo the few bolts that hold the tension rod boxes and sway bar, undo power steering lines from pump/res.
Then you just swap the entire thing as well as the power steering pump....which is usually different between those years.
Doing it at a shop only takes about 1 hour but doing it at home would take a lot more time in planning how you will suspend the car and the engine.
You can do the same for the rear but check the driveshafts to make sure they are interchangable with each other or you will have change transmissions at the same time.
After easily doing the front one evening, I stayed late the next night and did the rear which only took a short amount of time but I ran into the driveshafts being different which required me to swap the transmission.
I wouldn't have been a big deal but I had to do this to both cars in order to have two running cars when I was finished.
I got done so late that the gates were closed so I found the only spot open along the front of the dealership, kicked a pole until it came lose and removed it, drove over the hedge, replaced the pole and drove home.
The next day, you couldn't tell a car had driven over the hedge and the rain washed away all the soil flung around in my fury to remove the pole.
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Mack mentioned swapping the entire 280zx stuff into the 810.
I can't find the measurements at this moment but I did compare a 910 irs to the 280zx irs and found some differences.
One difference is that the 910 has a 300zx type of offset rather than the 280zx offset.
This is evidenced by the Z31 wheels bolting straight on without spacing while the 280zx wheels sit out at the fender lips which makes them rub.
There may have been a difference in the "height" of the shock mounting location on the arms between the S130 and the maxima.
Complicating measurement is the fact that 810/910/maxima FSM state positive camber for the rear irs and the 280zx fsm states negative camber.
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If you're gonna swape, then don't stabe the pedal or you will pope your tranny.
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The big question is whether the z31 turbo torque convertor fits the maxima L4n71b flexplate and bellhousing dimensions.
The stall is so low in the stock convertor that it really hurts performance.
If you want to build one to handle big hp, you could start with the Z31 turbo, holden V8, starion turbo, rx7 turbo II transmissions because they have the most clutch frictions and possibly gearsets with more planets.
The case of the trans. determines power level a certain bit by how many frictions it was machined for so you will find the maxima l4n71b case to not fit as many frictions as the turbo models.
That said, the L4n71b as used in the maxima uses an external line for lock-up while the E4n71b lacks this.
This case issue and the torque convertor/flexplate issues might make things more difficult.
L4n71b from maxima.
E4n71b....note the missing hydraulic line and addition of soleniods.
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How about I show pricing and availability of my setup that can be confirmed.....and tony does the same with his setup.
Remember that tony is the one who said "why on earth would you do that" at the thought of suggesting a R200 setup that bolts straight in yet has no trouble suggesting a solution that requires far more work, labor, and money spent.
He needs to temper his initial reactions to other people's opinions with a bit of wisdom BEFORE spewing them on the forum.
This is immediately obvious from his posting history and the fact that he will author posts that attack me without provocation.
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Did your entire drivetrain swap come from a first generation maxima?
If you're set on keeping an automatic, then the 4n71b is sweet.
I ran a 1984 4n71b in a maxima in which I simply swapped the turbo manifolding to the l24e and the transmission lasted 20k miles behind that setup through some really hard driving.......after 225,000 miles before the turbo was done.
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There was an article in "hot rod"/"car craft"/"Popular Hotrodding" around 1981 titled "off center casualty" that dealt with this exact issue.
Wish I could find it.
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Sending today in about an hour.
Will e.mail and PM you with tracking number.
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Definately leave alone your current transmission other than hooking up the kickdown.
It works now.
The transmission will kick down when +12v is applied to the terminal on the kickdown solenoid.
It makes a huge difference in performance.
Shift kitting a transmission that old will surely run you into issues as I found out in the early 80s when I was getting my 3n71b shift kits from B&M.
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My setup bolts straight in without incurring the cost of two sets of axles.
Junkyards will charge you for destroying a set of axles to get the inner tripods.
They will charge you the amount of the axle itself.
If they find you out in the junkyard destroying parts to build a subie/nissan hybrid axle, they will charge you for everything or simply eject you from the yard.
You will need both axles from the subie and both axles from the 280zx.
My setup costs less, is stronger, bolts in, and doesn't require anything other than swapping out the parts I detailed above.
Please give us the number for the guy who will do the axles for the pricing you quoted because I will surely want to get in on this bargain that is too good to be true.
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As compared to the SU setup with twin 44mm venturis on stock manifolding, the single 50mm throttle body flows substantially more air regardless of the pressure drop across the venturi.
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Price your entire swap.
purchase of 2x 280zx tripod axles
purchase of 2x subie tripod axles
purchase of R180 subaru differential.
LOL at your stating that $50 will get you.....
the subie axles disassembled
the zx axles disassembled
the subie inners installed on the 280zx axles, and the boots replaced.
Don't omit any parts required because I will surely point out the omissions.
My suggestion bolts straight in and can be done in an hour without trips to any shop and some of the parts are not necessary but were included in my estimate of what might be needed to cover all years of putting the R200 into the 810/910 equipped with IRS.
Include the 280zx axle flanges in your swap because they will be needed.
I've done the swap.....it's pictured earlier in the thread.
You have not done the swap and are going on about mounting issues that don't exist with my swap suggestion.
If his car is equipped with a H190, then none of this matters except for my learning further that tony will talk about something he hasn't yet done as if he's done it.
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LOL.....tony starts the smokescreen to cloud up things a bit.
Do us and yourself a favor by reviewing your past postings featuring being harsh for no apparent reason and a condescending attitude.
This conversion, which I have done on the 810/910/maxima and tony has not, cost exactly what I stated and required no going into the differential or converting the diff. to fit axle shafts...........which is where the major expense or labor is incurred with tony's suggestion.
You need to stop arguing for argument's sake.
BTW.....I picked up a 4 pinion longnose R200 (3.9) at the yard yesterday for $35.00 and checked prices on the rest.
Here is the list of all needed with pricing checked today.
$35.00 3.9 4-pinion R200 longnose from infiniti M30 (there are two in the yard....I got both of them)
$10.00 Pinion flange for r200 from r200 equipped s12.
$17.50 X2 halfshafts from 280zx
$10.00 X2 stub axle flanges from R180 equipped 200sx (there are 3 in the yard)
I didn't need these on my 910/maxima but some early cars might.
$5.00 R200 diff mount for R200 equipped S12 200sx.
This is a bolt in affair without the need to open the differential and incur the labor required for tony's conversion.
Tony surely won't be finding a locking subie diff. for 40 bucks as I won't be finding a R200 longnose with mechanical lsd from a late z31 turbo for 40 bucks.............well.....actually I have....... but the pricing of a locking diff. in R180 or R200 flavors will be about the same.
This disagreement started because Tony thinks swapping in a R200 that bolts in is ridiculous while suggesting a sunny/pulsar GTi-r scoop is period perfect on a datsun 810.
The GTI-r came out in 1990 and has this scoop which would look ridiculous on the original poster's car for the simple reason of the hood slope being drastically different between a GTI-r and the 810.
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$40.00 Junkyard R200 (biggest price variable depending on whether 4 pinion or lsd)
$10.00 Junkyard pinion flange from S12 200sx turbo
$10.00 Junkyard transmission mount from S12 200sx turbo....haven't seen one worn out yet.
$60.00 2X Cv type axle shafts from 280zx from upull yard.
$20.00 you might need 280zx axle flanges if your 810 or 910 was equipped with the early non-cv type axles.
It bolts right in and is all nissan parts.
How much will it cost for you fit a 3.9 or 4.1 equipped R180?
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Why on earth would he want a sunny GTi-R scoop on a 1981 810? (you suggested it above, tony)
It is surely not "period perfect" to put a 1990 scoop on a 1981 car yet you have a problem with my suggesting a R200 that bolts right in?
Tony will go to great lengths to throw his weight around and disagree with people while doing the exact same thing he tries to chide others about.
Maybe tony could work up the pricing for his r180 suggestion that will net you the same gearing variety and strength as the R200.
Since he plans to autocross it, how about doing an estimate (including labor if diffs need to be opened) for 3.9 or 4.1 gears and I will work up pricing for the complete R200 with 3.9 or 4.1 gears.
Let's compare if you want.
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LOL.....bring anything you want to our american dyno dynamics twin retarder.
It's good for over 2000hp and does not inflate numbers.
We wouldn't be staying in business if our dyno inflated numbers to the kind of clientele and other shops who outsource thier highest end projects to us.
Our cars back up any dyno claims with world records on the track.
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If you don't like the angled cut on the left hand side of your pattern, many "motorcycle approved" H4 setups from carello and other manufacturers will give you a cut straight across and won't be a problem with oncoming drivers as long as you have the cut below thier eye level. (you will actually want them aimed lower than that anyway or the high beams will be uselessly aimed above the roadway)
I moved tons of them at electrodyne as we were the importer of carello back in the 80s.
The big plus for carello is that they had H4 housing/lenses that were shaped exactly like normal sealed beams.
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1984 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-613 500 nissan # 23710-01P00 $35.00 shipped to PA via ups ground
1986 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-650 M20 nissan # 23710-18P02 $35.00 shipped to PA via ups ground
1989 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-A00 M84 nissan # 23710-25P00 $55.00 shipped to PA via ups ground
Definately research this while considering what your plans are with the car because there are more a few differences in them which may be an issue if you are doing any modifications or plan some for later.
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Have one here in west palm beach.
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When the diff. goes, put a r200 into it......if your car has IRS.
Need help with heat soak
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
The two relays mentioned above are connected to alternator and oil pressure switch.
Satisfying them is required to run the engine beyond the turning of the key switch.