HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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These roads here will have 5 inches or more from trough to peak on a washboard surface one day and be dead smooth the next.
I'm sure grumpyvette knows what I am talking about and that the amount of energy that the shocks are being asked to absorb is pretty intense.
It's an extreme situation but I endure it every day and I would rather my shocks not be insulated by an air gap from any cooling I can get.
I'll try to measure the heat next time I have to endure it.
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It only takes one ride down a washboard dirt road here in west palm beach to heat them to unbelievable temperatures.
Some of us have no choice but to drive them.
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I just populated the ecu connector with the missing wires when I made a ECU testing harness for this.
Blue Streak electronics had harnesses and wiring diagrams for all of the nissan engine management computers.
I probably could have skipped making a harness for this ecu but the orders came from the canadian facility.
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I usually fill the space with something that will best conduct the heat generated by the shock to the surface of the strut housing so it has a better chance of not overheating during hard use.
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You guote a statement made from 25 years experience and observation and try to call it a question?
There are plenty of other threads in which you can do this.
This is not one of them.
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It was good for 500hp over a non power recovery Wright 3350.
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For this setup, your basic need is an engine management system that you can select your spark timing.
I'm running 8 pounds of boost on a f54/p90 setup on a unmodified factory M30 ecu that has crazy aggressive timing in stock form and it's close to being too much timing.
Even a stock type ecu will work fine if it's either purposed for turbo use or the timing map has been optimized for boost.
If you are able to pull timing, you should be able to get away with 10psi on 93 octane.
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I pretty much only have the soundcards left of that setup and am looking for a newer motherboard that can fit them or a more modern card that uses PCI slots instead of the old ISA slot.
When that workstation died, it had the awe32 card and two terratec ews88d cards used through a Vm200 digital mixer using adat inputs and outputs.
Those old awe32s had a spdif digital output which was largely undocumented.........but sweet for avoiding any analog passes when mixing and recording either the onboard emu8000 synth. or using same to play samples.
I haven't checked but technology surely has passed my by in the DJ industry but it seems latency is still an issue for many types of equipment.
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Two tech12s, cheap numark mixer, ABIT KT7A-raid based digital workstation with circa 1995 soundblaster awe32 stuffed with 32megs of sample ram allowing ZERO latency (zero....not low latency) live sound through soundfonts, cheap midi controller, cheap midi drum surface, a monophonic a/b stomp box connected to a digitech rp-8 to which a cheap kramer guitar with a floyd rose stuffed with a duncan distortion pickup........which was used to make crazy sounds mostly as a safety net. And a cheap cd player.
Soundfonts, when used old school in hardware has the response that no software synth. can ever match.
At my best, I could flip hard between Grace Jones' "slave to the rhythm" (princess and the frog mix) with James Brown's "super bad" without a trainwreck.
Nothing in the world sounds like a guitar connected to the house PA of a good sized club when you've got the bar pushed so far down the low e is vibrating at 16hz.
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Any of you guys checked out the 1992 stanza throttle bodies?
They seem a lot easier to fit.
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I would try to source a maxima N47 head.
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I seem to remember my buddy had a brand new 280zx in 1979 and hearing him catch reverse for a second as he removed it from 5th.
From that, I will guess the early s130 did not have lockout.............or my friend was truly a bad driver.
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I used something called a LP and two turntables.
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Then I guess the 280zx runs richer than 10:1 when you unplug the 02 sensor......which causes black smoke when the car is run.
At Z shop of miami, we used to coordinate test drives for the first services of the day to have at least two cars.
Following a 280zx with bad 02 or it unplugged always netted black smoke.
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If you have to go through the ordeal of axles and possibly custom flanges, it might be better to go all the way and get the stuff to run the subaru WRX lsd diffs.
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I'll take the cover off tomorrow.
My factory service manual for a 1983 maxima shows 3.7 for the auto and 3.54 for the manual.
This might be because the later 4n71b auto transmissions had a pretty steep overdrive as well as lockup torque convertors.
I wonder if the maxima c/v type axles are short enough to use on the s30?
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Sweet.......exactly the type of information I need.
I'm going to experiment with this on a 2002 nissan frontier supercharged ecu but I figured the MS guys are on the sharp end of external peak and hold drivers.
One thing I want to do is check any tuning differences between running dropping resistors and external peak and hold drivers on the same car under the same conditions.
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If you really want to take it to the next level, get independant braking on the fronts.
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This is from a 1984 maxima sedan automatic with 225,000 miles.
No clue on the 110 or 115mm question or whether splines are the same as earlier diffs. but the application above is correct so checking whether the 1984 maxima indeed has the proper differential would be a good idea as it came with CV type axles.
I did rob a few bolts but not enough to open anything and will update the pics with all the bolts installed after I go through my bolt drawers.
I did not hear any undue noises when it was pulled out of a daily driver car to be replaced with a 3.54 R200 and 5 speed and has been stored inside for 3 years.
UPS estimates around $47 for shipping from west palm beach to a random zip code in huntsville, AL via ups ground with a 2 or 3 day transit time.
$130.00 with shipping included.
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I have a "zero budget" M30 build I had to press into service as a "minimum budget daily driver" that needed intercooling to keep the F54/P90 with flattops safe so I scrounged my stash for a supra intercooler and a way to plumb it without violating my project guidline of not cutting the body in any way.
At the junkyards, I bought a bunch of random saab and volvo intercooler piping, soft hoses, and a blow off valve and was able to weave them through the body and cut the soft hoses to length and ended up with an intercooler/boost control/blow off valve system that cost around $80 dollars in parts for everything...(including intercooler)
I'm using the stock "vacuum control valve" which is a very small recirculation valve and added a much larger recirculation valve which is plumbed in right before the throttle body and is routed to the turbocharger inlet elbow.
It is dead silent like the rest of the car because of the usage of mostly factory stuff designed to deaden sound.
If I remove the air cleaner box top, it will give off "Pssstt" sounds like most of the turbo cars that the sideways baseball cap wearin' beings prefer.
VintagetechZ using stainless on the piping behind the radiator is definately doing it right.
It's amazing how little engine bay heat the charge picks up from the piping when you use stainless......which is all I would consider if my project had a budget. -
Tube9z is correct in his post on the first page.
There was a company who altered the shape of the rear control arms.
The best way to describe the mods is to make a fist pretending that the fist is the mounting point and your forearm is the trailing arm.
Bend your wrist up or down about 45 degrees to get an idea of how they changed the articulation of the arms.
I haven't seen one in a few years but I saw more than a few on 280zx turbos that were modded for high horsepower in the mid to late 1980s.
As far as racing......I think sanford sliverberg still holds at least one SCCA ITS track record with a 280zx.
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That's probably from a 280zx as they seem short but there really are a lot of them in differing dimensions.
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There is no "best". Take a look at the exhaust sticky if you want detailed information, but if you want more low end torque then use longer primaries (collect further down) and vice versa for efficiency at higher rpm. I'm doubt there is a huge difference between the factory manifolds, but I don't have enough experience with those to verify. You can play with the 2-1 merge for minor gains at lower or higher rpm, depending on where you put the merge.
My post specifically references the many different "downpipes" where the the merge is very different between the types.
I have at least 4 different types here and I did like the comparison between the different pipes.
As far as the pipe diameter, length, collector diameter and shape, collector length.........the formulas have not changed that much since 1975 when I started learning this stuff.
3.7 R&P for R180 diff
in Parts Wanted
Posted · Edited by HowlerMonkey
Took a bit longer than I expected.
It seems to be relatively unworn for the high mileage but it only did duty on a 1984 maxima with an automatic transmission.
The cv type axles butt against the spider gear pin which has a flattened section on each side.
This is what you see inside the axle hole.
Here's an impression on the ring gear if the detail is not enough on the photo.