HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Tube9z is correct in his post on the first page.
There was a company who altered the shape of the rear control arms.
The best way to describe the mods is to make a fist pretending that the fist is the mounting point and your forearm is the trailing arm.
Bend your wrist up or down about 45 degrees to get an idea of how they changed the articulation of the arms.
I haven't seen one in a few years but I saw more than a few on 280zx turbos that were modded for high horsepower in the mid to late 1980s.
As far as racing......I think sanford sliverberg still holds at least one SCCA ITS track record with a 280zx.
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That's probably from a 280zx as they seem short but there really are a lot of them in differing dimensions.
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There is no "best". Take a look at the exhaust sticky if you want detailed information, but if you want more low end torque then use longer primaries (collect further down) and vice versa for efficiency at higher rpm. I'm doubt there is a huge difference between the factory manifolds, but I don't have enough experience with those to verify. You can play with the 2-1 merge for minor gains at lower or higher rpm, depending on where you put the merge.
My post specifically references the many different "downpipes" where the the merge is very different between the types.
I have at least 4 different types here and I did like the comparison between the different pipes.
As far as the pipe diameter, length, collector diameter and shape, collector length.........the formulas have not changed that much since 1975 when I started learning this stuff.
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Blue Stag's post brings me to a question on how well the factory pipes work.
I've got many from various inline and V6 nissans and was wondering if anybody ever compared the ones that collect almost right away to the ones that collect about 15 inches further down.
I guess my question is whether anybody has optimized the best setup using factory nissan manifolds.
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Whether homemade or another manufacturer like AEM?
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If this is just a placeholder engine and the last few lobes still have a surface that is smooth to the touch, I would add the missing oiler spray bar and run it to see what happens while keeping an eye and ear on those lobes.
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Ah....the fate most V07 cranks suffer.
Pulled from an engine that has become more valuable in running condition than the soon to be rusty cranks pulled from them.
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I worked on Constellations that had 3350PRT engines on them.
The PRT means "power recovery turbine" which were 3 units mounted the the engine that were the hot side of a large turbo that were geared to put the power back to the crankshaft.
More current stuff is used by volvo and scania.
Some are looking into involving electricity by mounting a motor/generator into the center section of a turbo and recovering energy as electricity that can be used to charge a hybrid vehicle type battery.
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Biggest concern is the piping between the engine and the turbo will be nearly white hot which endangers anything nearby to catch on fire.
Ask around the STS guys and you will find more than a few carpet or trunk fires.
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You can go pick up a coil/igniter combo from the local upull.
I've pulled them from most any VG30E single cam equipped nissan.
I also find the condensor and the diode that is spliced into the harness nearby.
Just make sure you get the connector that connects to them.
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1925 norton motorcycle used a variable venturi carburetor with a flap to size the venturi as well as the rochester varajet.
I knew carbs were doomed when honda stopped producing the carburetor with the pinky sized venturi.
The hardest variable venturi carburetor to work with is easily the feedback carb used by toyota in which the piston was coated with teflon.
Spray the wrong thing down the throat, and it's done........and expensive to replace.
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From the thread...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77165-82-83-l28et-distributor-plug-pics-please
Had to use google search using the "site:forums.hybrid.org" command line after "distributor plug".
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Yes
They also all fire at the same time.
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Injectors get constant power with the key on.
The ecu delivers the negative signal.
I've seen many nissan ecus fuse the injector driver and the zener diode when connecting the battery backwards.
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I'll check whether I still have one out of my 1984 maxima which I fit a r200 to.
Have never shipped out something larger than an envelope so I need to check around on how it would best be shipped.
Back in a day or so.
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I'm speaking from experience even though it was 24 years ago at the Z shop of miami.
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"A" cam will have zero negative effect on the stock ecu because the stock ecu is unbelievably non-exact.
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I was referencing the "increasing tension on the bolts" which will not happen since you won't be heating the flywheel without also heating the bolts.
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Take off the driver's kick panel and gently wiggle the wires that go into the ecu.
Often only takes a light touch.
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The P79 "a" cam might be interesting in a p90 head.
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Pull a plug.......might be wet.
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I don't see how heating the flywheel would relieve tension on the bolts. Heating the flywheel will cause it to expand in all directions thus increasing tension on the bolts. Heating up the flywheel caused it to move due to thermal expansion and break the corrosion layer between the parts thus reducing the torque required to remove the bolts.
The bolts will get longer as they "expand".
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Because the L28 is rear sump and the maxima requires a front sump.
You would have to modify the oil pickup and add a new dipstick for the front sump location.
All that kind of jazz exists in this thread that shows some of the engine fitment issues of putting the L28 into a front sump car.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74589-l28et-into-infiniti-m30-begins/
The L24 in my car was in pristine condition and handled tire burning boost fine for 40,000 or more miles.
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Here.....let me bring it on topic.
The L6 in this car (this is an L6 forum) is a L24.
It doesn't possess enough power in stock form but I've turbocharged them using the 280zx turbo hardware on the L24 longblock.
Pretty much the only non-stock things needed are to fabricate a downpipe from the 4 bolt flange back and to fit a turbo drain.
The rest can come from the 280zx turbo donor car.
Here's a thread with pics that might help.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74546-fs-1984-maxima-5-sp-turbo-l24e-west-palm-florida/
Post your Intercooler setup.
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted · Edited by HowlerMonkey
I have a "zero budget" M30 build I had to press into service as a "minimum budget daily driver" that needed intercooling to keep the F54/P90 with flattops safe so I scrounged my stash for a supra intercooler and a way to plumb it without violating my project guidline of not cutting the body in any way.
At the junkyards, I bought a bunch of random saab and volvo intercooler piping, soft hoses, and a blow off valve and was able to weave them through the body and cut the soft hoses to length and ended up with an intercooler/boost control/blow off valve system that cost around $80 dollars in parts for everything...(including intercooler)
I'm using the stock "vacuum control valve" which is a very small recirculation valve and added a much larger recirculation valve which is plumbed in right before the throttle body and is routed to the turbocharger inlet elbow.
It is dead silent like the rest of the car because of the usage of mostly factory stuff designed to deaden sound.
If I remove the air cleaner box top, it will give off "Pssstt" sounds like most of the turbo cars that the sideways baseball cap wearin' beings prefer.
VintagetechZ using stainless on the piping behind the radiator is definately doing it right.
It's amazing how little engine bay heat the charge picks up from the piping when you use stainless......which is all I would consider if my project had a budget.