HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Whether homemade or another manufacturer like AEM?
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If this is just a placeholder engine and the last few lobes still have a surface that is smooth to the touch, I would add the missing oiler spray bar and run it to see what happens while keeping an eye and ear on those lobes.
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Ah....the fate most V07 cranks suffer.
Pulled from an engine that has become more valuable in running condition than the soon to be rusty cranks pulled from them.
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I worked on Constellations that had 3350PRT engines on them.
The PRT means "power recovery turbine" which were 3 units mounted the the engine that were the hot side of a large turbo that were geared to put the power back to the crankshaft.
More current stuff is used by volvo and scania.
Some are looking into involving electricity by mounting a motor/generator into the center section of a turbo and recovering energy as electricity that can be used to charge a hybrid vehicle type battery.
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Biggest concern is the piping between the engine and the turbo will be nearly white hot which endangers anything nearby to catch on fire.
Ask around the STS guys and you will find more than a few carpet or trunk fires.
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You can go pick up a coil/igniter combo from the local upull.
I've pulled them from most any VG30E single cam equipped nissan.
I also find the condensor and the diode that is spliced into the harness nearby.
Just make sure you get the connector that connects to them.
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1925 norton motorcycle used a variable venturi carburetor with a flap to size the venturi as well as the rochester varajet.
I knew carbs were doomed when honda stopped producing the carburetor with the pinky sized venturi.
The hardest variable venturi carburetor to work with is easily the feedback carb used by toyota in which the piston was coated with teflon.
Spray the wrong thing down the throat, and it's done........and expensive to replace.
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From the thread...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77165-82-83-l28et-distributor-plug-pics-please
Had to use google search using the "site:forums.hybrid.org" command line after "distributor plug".
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Yes
They also all fire at the same time.
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Injectors get constant power with the key on.
The ecu delivers the negative signal.
I've seen many nissan ecus fuse the injector driver and the zener diode when connecting the battery backwards.
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I'll check whether I still have one out of my 1984 maxima which I fit a r200 to.
Have never shipped out something larger than an envelope so I need to check around on how it would best be shipped.
Back in a day or so.
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I'm speaking from experience even though it was 24 years ago at the Z shop of miami.
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"A" cam will have zero negative effect on the stock ecu because the stock ecu is unbelievably non-exact.
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I was referencing the "increasing tension on the bolts" which will not happen since you won't be heating the flywheel without also heating the bolts.
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Take off the driver's kick panel and gently wiggle the wires that go into the ecu.
Often only takes a light touch.
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The P79 "a" cam might be interesting in a p90 head.
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Pull a plug.......might be wet.
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I don't see how heating the flywheel would relieve tension on the bolts. Heating the flywheel will cause it to expand in all directions thus increasing tension on the bolts. Heating up the flywheel caused it to move due to thermal expansion and break the corrosion layer between the parts thus reducing the torque required to remove the bolts.
The bolts will get longer as they "expand".
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Because the L28 is rear sump and the maxima requires a front sump.
You would have to modify the oil pickup and add a new dipstick for the front sump location.
All that kind of jazz exists in this thread that shows some of the engine fitment issues of putting the L28 into a front sump car.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74589-l28et-into-infiniti-m30-begins/
The L24 in my car was in pristine condition and handled tire burning boost fine for 40,000 or more miles.
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Here.....let me bring it on topic.
The L6 in this car (this is an L6 forum) is a L24.
It doesn't possess enough power in stock form but I've turbocharged them using the 280zx turbo hardware on the L24 longblock.
Pretty much the only non-stock things needed are to fabricate a downpipe from the 4 bolt flange back and to fit a turbo drain.
The rest can come from the 280zx turbo donor car.
Here's a thread with pics that might help.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74546-fs-1984-maxima-5-sp-turbo-l24e-west-palm-florida/
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Long time, no see Grumpy.....welcome back.
I've found that getting a working drivetrain (or leaving one in that still runs) is a good motivator....even if the engine is just a placeholder.
I've also done a quick sanding and getting paint right over blemishes and rust to get the car one color (and possibly preview your color choice) that kept me motivated.
As long as you have made sure the surface is good for paint adhesion, you can fix the bad spots later and it's far better than a car sitting in primer.
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Sweet.....maybe better access to the GCRs will inspire more racers.
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I thought SCCA charges money for the GCRs.
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A 110 welder draws about twice the amps at the same settings as a 220 welder.
This makes the circuit from the panel to the outlet you are using very important.
I use a snap-on FM140 I picked up for 600 bucks in brand new condition.
It's not a century welder but rather a CK systematics welder and has the biggest transformer I have ever seen in a 110 welder.........and I have welded until the torch is too hot to use.
I believe the 100% duty cycle is not an empty boast with this unit......as long as it's plugged into a strong enough circuit.
Stock downpipes N/A?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by HowlerMonkey
Blue Stag's post brings me to a question on how well the factory pipes work.
I've got many from various inline and V6 nissans and was wondering if anybody ever compared the ones that collect almost right away to the ones that collect about 15 inches further down.
I guess my question is whether anybody has optimized the best setup using factory nissan manifolds.