HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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It's all up to motor technology.
It was touched upon in this thread but was taken to an extreme.
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That's amazing......I've never seen anybody actually get out that "reducer" from any nissan turbo elbow.
That must have been a horrible pain.
You owe him a six pack of tasty beer.
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You would be amazed at what JB weld can do.
It should work ok but I would line up the cover and see if the hole will work in it's current location before finalizing with with JBweld.
I'm not sure how the jbweld will grab the bolt so you might want to dip it in wax or something in case you ever want to remove it.
I wouldn't use oil since it could interfere with the hardening of the jbweld.
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LOL.......you must also be an A&P.
OK.....I'll bite.....
How about when you chance upon a friend in the paddock at palm beach international raceway who's trying to get his SCCA improved touring 240z started after swapping in an engine someone else built because he popped his the day before.......and he only has 15 minutes to go until he has to be on the track?
That engine the rest of the season that way at the front of the pack and it took me all of 8 minutes to do it.
There's a time and a place to exercise options like that but you have to know of the options available in order to exercise them.
I was just adding an option to the thread.
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So how would installing the dizzy 180 out and leaving the cam to engine timing be less catastrophic? If you remove the rocker arms (as stated before) thus releasing the valves into the head, rotating the cam to the correct position (which will not move the valves because there's no arms) ensuring the cam to engine timing is correct. Everything that has to do with the timing on this car is incorrect, you try to install the dizzy 180 out and start the engine and I'm pretty sure it will be toast. If your already in there, just do it right. Cutting corners will cost you money.
I guess you missed the part of my mentioning that it would be a solution ONLY if the cam/crank relationship was exactly 180 degrees out.
First thing to do is loosen greatly and/or pop out the rockers so that any movement of either cam or crank does not result in pistons hitting valves.
The second part of fixing this is identifying how far off the timing is and remembering whether the engine was turned while in this state of cam/crank index because you may have already experienced damage that needs to be addressed.
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Does it act exactly the same with the airflow meter disconnected?
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If it's not stuck internally, you can usually move that lever a few times and it will adjust up.
If it doesn't, check whether the cable is allowing the arm to release far enough.
I've seen a few people adjust the cable tight enough that it did not allow the calipers to adjust up when working the parking brake handle.
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LOL daeron......there must be 10 of those in west palm alone.
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I'm sure anybody who would be doing the splicing could be coerced to extend the very few wires necessary to put the connector somewhere that it can be used.
I usually (not VQ but in my job as an ecu tester/rebuilder of all makes) just snip one off at the junkyard and run wires to the proper terminals.
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The air flow meter has a microswitch in some year 280z cars. (don't remember if 1977 has it).
You can test for that by holding the flap of the airflow meter open while the key is turned and see if you have power to the pump.
A jumper there will ensure fuel pump operation whenever the key is turned.....unless you are keen on removing the entire injection harness to clean up the bay which will require jumpering and splicing elsewhere.
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Taking the cover off is pretty harsh and could net you a lot more work than you are interested in doing.
If you really want to do it properly, the cover must come off.
Remember that there are those two small bolts going downward from the head into the cover and the ones coming up from the pan.
I'll venture a guess the water pump is leaking.
If it is but the cover is not leaking between it and the block, a hack solution could be threading the cover itself with a top and using a larger bolt as well as drilling the water pump hole for that bolt larger and using a shorter bolt to hold it to cover.........again....provided the cover is not leaking.
You also cannot let the tap bottom out on the bolt or it will put force trying to spread the cover and block apart.....causing a leak.
I'd only recommend this if you're stranded somewhere far from home but I once had to do this to get my only source of transportation on the road so I could get to work and it ended up lasting lasted 4 years.
Again....only if there are no leaks between the front cover and the block since high pressure does pass from cover to block and could fail the gasket.
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The only thing that is different if the cam is truly 180 degrees out is the distributor shaft.
If it is a couple of links on either side of 180 out or perfectly timed, there may be valve bending already.
Once the engine turns a few revolutions, the color of the links mean nothing.
My suggestion has far less risk of catastrophic cam mistiming and subsequent valve bending than "fixing it right".....especially when applying to someone with not a whole lot of experience.
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You're talking about doing this without removing the timing cover?
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When I find a "cam 180 degrees out" I just reclock the distributor shaft 180 degrees out and start driving right away.
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That is funny....I've heard of that too.
What's amazing is those cheater engines ran fine with an obvious difference in compression in one cylinder.
It kind of makes you wonder why you would spend the time CC'ing combustion chambers after seeing that.
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I would change the oil with normal diff. oil for a short time and then change to synthetic.
Nothing like two quick oil changes to get rid of dirt.
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The difference in ecus is that the 1981 uses an external dropping resistor pack on the harness while the 1982 and 1983 have the resistors in the ecu.
The crank reference signalling should be the same.
You have a 90 tooth pulley with a sensor that has two poles spaced halfway between two peaks which causes 180 pulses per crank revolution and a different pole for the 120 degree pulse.
It's really 3 sensors with two of them outputting on the same wire and the other having it's own output.
Sadly....the crank sensor won't allow you to upgrade to the Z31 system because it requires a longer duration on one of the 120 degree peaks to identify cylinder #1.
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Ah....relief valve.
Still haven't found one that isn't melted internally.......well.....I did find one about 4 years ago but I left it on the car when it went to the crusher....doh!
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They might hit the steering column and the passenger side will probably hit the crossmember where it meets the engine mount.
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All it takes is one good misfire event on some spark plugs to wet it enough that it refuses to fire until replaced.....or thoroughly cleaned in one of those sandblaster type spark plug cleaners.
Not sure why but I've run into some plugs that never again fire correctly after being wet fouled.
Really shouldn't happen but I've seen it.
You can put a long screwdriver against you #4 injector and see if it is firing by comparing it's noise with the others.
At that time, you can wiggle the connector on the injector as well.
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Love the old school bikes.
Those white bikes are just screaming for one of these....unless you only race it and rules are against a two speed hub.
I spent a decade racing all that tried to pass me on the bike trails on the virginia side of washington DC. riding an old Miele mountain bike with 2.0 size tires (cheater ridge in center) and then would bring out the skinny tire bike to track down whoever beat me more than once on the mountain bike.
The bike paths there are some of the best I have ever seen for summer, spring, and fall but the winter months were better spent mountain biking on the muddy trails of bull run.
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It should work since the crank reference is the same signal.
If you are absolutely sure the ecu is a 1982 or later, then you will have to go to that 8 lug connector where the dropping resistors plug into the harness (1 in and 6 separate resisted out) and bypass them.
I just made a six into one with 7 male spade connectors and plugged that into the female plug on the harness.
Use a meter to determine which is the 12 volt input.
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I've heard loose torque convertor bolts make that exact same sound but that is rare.
That sounds like a lot more than 750rpms in that video....more like 1,100.
For rod knock diagnosis you cannot use a constant rpm....just tip into it a couple of times slightly and see if the character changes.
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Never do that.
Your alternator diodes will thank you.
Vg30dett z31
in Z31 Series - 300ZX
Posted
That's really really really nice.